Welding table... another one, why not?

[550]

Well I need a table for TIG welding (that isn't made out of wood LOL )

So I looked up a bunch of different ways people were doing it, and I decided to try and keep it as budget minded as possible (which isn't easy).

I am essentially building a bottom and then attaching a table top separate just in case the table top warps or I want to go with something different in the future. I haven't decided how I will mount the top yet but it is 2'x4' 3/16 A36 hot roll since I can't afford much more than that.

The base will be inset 2" all the way around to allow for clamping room and possibility of adding a 4" or 5" vise as well. The base is comprised of 2" square 1/8" thick.

Here are a few pics:










I have a drawing of the dimensions I will post a pic of later.

Total cost into this: $258.67 At the moment, that is metal only. (Although I did run out of wire last night while welding :-( ) More pics to come!

[Burnt hands]

550,

I have made several welding tables over the years and each one was (I thought ) the best and last one.

But each new one builds upon the knowledge and drawbacks of the previous version.

It is always a tough call to balance cost versus features.

Champagne tastes and desires on a beer budget.

I do like your idea of separate base and top so you can upgrade or modify later.

This is your table - personalize it.

Steel and welding are like clay to a potter.

Always easy to rework although steel may be a bit easier to rework than clay which has been fired.

Good luck.

[550]

550,

I have made several welding tables over the years and each one was (I thought ) the best and last one.

But each new one builds upon the knowledge and drawbacks of the previous version.

It is always a tough call to balance cost versus features.

Champagne tastes and desires on a beer budget.

I do like your idea of separate base and top so you can upgrade or modify later.

This is your table - personalize it.

Steel and welding are like clay to a potter.

Always easy to rework although steel may be a bit easier to rework than clay which has been fired.

Good luck.

Thanks, I figure this will go through some different iterations. I should have some more pics soon.

It's a slow build, I have so many other things going on... and my TIG argon valve seems to be bad so I gotta replace that now too. It never ends LOL

[MMW]

If all you bought was 1 length of 2x2x1/8x 24' & 1 pc 3/16x2'x4' for $260 you should look for a new supplier. That is only about 140# so you paid double what I would pay.

Maybe an expanded metal shelf underneath & some hooks to hang stuff. A bar running from leg to leg about 6 inches below the top for hanging clamps.

Why not mount the top with counter sunk screws? Or you can just put a few tacks that can be easily ground off if needed.

[550]

I bought 33' worth of 2x2 sq at 1/8"

And then the top plate..


Is that closer to what you pay?

I will definitely have some kind of hooks, and I was thinking counter sinking the screws into the frame through the top. That maybe the best idea. Once I get the base built completely I will have a better look at it. (Especially with the casters on)

[Doughboyracer]

You paid no attention to the direction of the seam…might matter, might not. Just something I noticed and something to think about. I know it is just 1/8” but drill and tapping it might have been an option especially with thicker tube. Not saying you can’t the way you did it, just might give you more trouble.

[550]

You paid no attention to the direction of the seam…might matter, might not. Just something I noticed and something to think about. I know it is just 1/8” but drill and tapping it might have been an option especially with thicker tube. Not saying you can’t the way you did it, just might give you more trouble.

Touche. I really did over look it. Hmm :-/ That may end up being my bottom piece then.

[gwiley]

I have found that welding is so much faster than the drill/tap/screw/bolt approach that I rarely use fasteners in my projects if I can design things to be welded instead.

You might object and say, "But what if I want to change tops?" - think long and hard about how much time it will take to grind out/cut the old one off and weld the new one versus unbolting/unscrewing then going through the whole drill/tap exercise again on the new top.

I suspect that at worst the time will be about the same, but in reality I believe that welding is faster and easier than fasteners. Remember - you don't need a continuous weld along the entire top/frame joint - it should be an intermittent or stitch weld.

[550]

I have found that welding is so much faster than the drill/tap/screw/bolt approach that I rarely use fasteners in my projects if I can design things to be welded instead.

You might object and say, "But what if I want to change tops?" - think long and hard about how much time it will take to grind out/cut the old one off and weld the new one versus unbolting/unscrewing then going through the whole drill/tap exercise again on the new top.

I suspect that at worst the time will be about the same, but in reality I believe that welding is faster and easier than fasteners. Remember - you don't need a continuous weld along the entire top/frame joint - it should be an intermittent or stitch weld.

I do agree with you 100% but I didn't have enough to spring for a 1/2" top. I had to cut the budget somewhere :-/

My thoughts were to weld on nuts to the table base (as opposed to drill/tapping) I hate tapping things, and maybe that's just because I don't do it a lot (Although with how much I do automotive wise... I should probably get with the program hah)

I do agree also, that drilling holes accurately in this top could be more of a pain in the butt than it's worth.

[Doughboyracer]

I would not "tap" the table top. As a matter of fact, I would not tap the cross members. I would drill and counter sink the top and drill the cross members to match for self-tapping fasteners...My 2 cents...again.