Results 11 to 14 of 14
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06-27-2011, 09:34 PM #11
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06-27-2011, 10:44 PM #12
Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jun 2009
- Location
- greenfield new hampshire
- Posts
- 783
gee sundown so nice to hear from you, always so friendly and so informed, the only thing that i do that leads to stupidity is listen to you, was i bragging or mayby just explaining the type of work that can be done with this rod, i would like to know why you are so insulting to the members on this forum, you must make alot of friends by starting up a conversation with stupid in the first sentence, lighten up dude, life is too short for attitudes
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06-28-2011, 08:18 AM #13
Senior Member
- Join Date
- Mar 2007
- Location
- Deltaville, VA
- Posts
- 2,241
Kevin,
Would the words "not smart at all" have been more appealing to you?
In your own words, you mentioned Audi, which most consider to be in the "high performance" car category. Then you state, "a crack 2.5" long RIGHT THROUGH THE MEATY AREA BY THE BEAD". The solution was to "ground out a V" and fill with aluminum rod.
By your description, you did nothing to prevent the promulgation or spreading of the crack further. You simply "filled the void" with an inferior process.
I put aluminum wheel repair in the same category (regarding safety) as constructing trailers that travel over the roads. Best left to people who know what they're doing and have the "proper equipment" to do the repair in a safe manner.
Many posters on this board lack the experience to fully understand their own limitations. They take what others say to heart. To me, it's irresponsible to make such a suggestion that all a guy has to do is grab an aluminum stick rod and "weld up the cracks in his aluminum wheels". I do not know of any "professional" who would recommend this course of action.
While the aluminum stick rods may have a place for the hobbiest who's trying to "stick two pieces of metal together", they have no place when it comes to doing structural repairs on critical over the road equipment.
Oh, and just for the record, "making friends" is not why I come to this forum. I try to pass on many years of experience so that some of our new guys don't make the same mistakes I made over the years.Syncrowave 250 DX Tigrunner
Dynasty 200 DX
Miller XMT 304 w/714D Feeder & Optima Control
Miller MM 251 w/Q300 & 30A SG
Hobart HH187
Dialarc 250 AC/DC
Hypertherm PM 600 & 1250
Wilton 7"x12" bandsaw
PC Dry Cut Saw, Dewalt Chop Saw
Milwaukee 8" Metal Cut Saw, Milwaukee Portaband.
Thermco and Smith (2) Gas Mixers
More grinders than hands
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06-28-2011, 03:52 PM #14
Senior Member
- Join Date
- Mar 2010
- Posts
- 459
Hang in there Sundown!
People hate to hear that they did unwisely. Was that rim NDI'ed after welding? I doubt it.
Al stick rod is for tacking lightly stressed junk back together.
You won't see it in Air Force fab shops.



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