Miller Electric

Welding Discussion Forums

Home » Resources » Communities » Welding Discussion Forums
 
Miller Welding Discussion Forums - Powered by vBulletin

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 20 of 20
  1. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    356

    Default @ SundownIII

    I have to laugh, I agree 100% with what you said and had part of that in my reply, I just chose not to state the first part "out loud" so I took it out.
    MillerMatic 211 Auto-set w/MVP
    Just For Home Projects.

  2. #12

    Default

    Hi guys,

    Thanks for all the suggestions. I had a chat to a few carpenters that were doing some work on the house and they suggested a timber called Merbau/Kwila (I think its from indonesia, I'm in Australia)

    The price was alright, I paid around $4 AUD per M. I know what you mean about Teak, I think I saw a price tag of something like 25-26/m

    Here's the table with insert clamped in place, i'm going to weld some SS brackets onto the underside of the frame and screw the timber in from below, using 3 slats of the timber as bracing.

    Pretty happy with how it looks, the wood is oil rich and quite hard wearing. I believe it's similar to teak in many ways

    cheers again!


  3. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Deltaville, VA
    Posts
    2,239

    Default

    Looks really good.

    Nice, clean, high grade table you can be proud of for years to come.


    PS: The only thing I would worry about, especially for an "outdoor table", would be the forces put on the leg to frame connection. Without gussets, there's a lot of leverage put on just the weld joint.

    One thing you may want to consider, which would still maintain the "clean look", is to add a 1/2" SS rod running parallel to the horizontal frame and down a couple of inches. It would, based on the apparent height, still allow you to pull a chair in under the table. This would greatly strengthen/stiffen the whole table.
    Last edited by SundownIII; 06-27-2011 at 12:06 PM.
    Syncrowave 250 DX Tigrunner
    Dynasty 200 DX
    Miller XMT 304 w/714D Feeder & Optima Control
    Miller MM 251 w/Q300 & 30A SG
    Hobart HH187
    Dialarc 250 AC/DC
    Hypertherm PM 600 & 1250
    Wilton 7"x12" bandsaw
    PC Dry Cut Saw, Dewalt Chop Saw
    Milwaukee 8" Metal Cut Saw, Milwaukee Portaband.
    Thermco and Smith (2) Gas Mixers
    More grinders than hands

  4. #14

    Default

    hi guys,

    i finally got round to staining, sealing and screwing down the slat top. took me a few weeks of procrastinating and being busy with other things but i'm pretty happy with how the project came out in the end!

    cheers for the tips




  5. #15
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Bossier Parish La.
    Posts
    542

    Default Fine Job

    The table turned out very nice, almost looks "store bought". This is what I was talking about when I mentioned inlaying the wood in the frame rather than having the wood on top of the frame. It makes a nice contrast of the stainless with the wood. It should last a long time in an outdoor environment.Now all you need, is to make a set of matching chairs to sit on while soaking up the suds. That could make a whole other thread or a continuation of this one. It might be a good idea to make one first, to make sure you had the design and measurements right to suit you. Then make three more identical ones after you are satisfied with how the first turned out.I tend to agree with Sundown on adding the extra piece a few inches below the top for extra strength to the legs. But I guess you can judge how stable it is better than the rest of us since you can lay your hands on it and we can't. Enjoy it for years while watching the surf roll in.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Tampa FL USA 33617
    Posts
    17

    Default

    Looks Amazing man...Great work A+ Build!

  7. #17

    Default

    thanks fellas. the tables pretty stiff and stable in general use, as it's not overly large and heavy, so i decided not to cross brace the legs.

    the next piece for my place is going to be a tall, long, skinny serving table arrangement, for the BBQ. i reckon i might do a set of high bar stools to go with it, so it can double as a bar once the servings all done

    the slat table isn't staying with me, so unfortunately it wont be me soaking the suds and watching the waves, but hopefully the recipients enjoy it!

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    1

    Default

    do you mind posting pics of how the wood is mounted to the frame. trying to do something similar.
    thanks

  9. #19
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    130

    Default

    given that this is not on a boat, teak wood would be a waste of money. Ipe is a solid choice for this project. Mangaris would also give the same look and is cheaper then ipe.

    Both these woods last just as well as teak. Teak is popular with the boating industry because it is a light hardwood.

  10. #20

    Default

    hi fshkypr,

    i don't have any pics of the underside but its not hard to visualise with an explanation. the table in the current thread isn't attached in the best of ways but the other pieces i've made are done a bit better

    basically get some 25x25x3 stainless angle (1"x1"x1/8") and cut it so it sits flush inside the frame width-ways

    using an offcut of the timber or something the same thickness as whatever the table top will be, set the depth and stitch weld the SS angles in place. for a straight slatted top i'd put one on either endpiece and two in the middle if it's a big long table.

    now if you're using slats roughly mark out their position and drill holes in the angle supports. i like to do 2 screws per slat per support so i do end up drilling plenty of holes. i should have recommended doing this before welding them in especially if you have a drill press to take some of the pain away

    lastly line up the slats and screw them in from the underside, making sure to keep the slats straight and the gaps even. if you set the depth correctly on all the braces any warped planks will be pulled into line and you should have a flat, flush top

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Warning: Non-static method PhpQuickProfiler::getMicroTime() should not be called statically in /mnt/stor3-wc1-dfw1/357822/357839/www.millerwelds.com/web/content/lib/pqp/classes/Console.php on line 77

Warning: Non-static method PhpQuickProfiler::getMicroTime() should not be called statically in /mnt/stor3-wc1-dfw1/357822/357839/www.millerwelds.com/web/content/lib/pqp/classes/Console.php on line 77

Warning: Non-static method PhpQuickProfiler::getMicroTime() should not be called statically in /mnt/stor3-wc1-dfw1/357822/357839/www.millerwelds.com/web/content/lib/pqp/classes/Console.php on line 77

Warning: Non-static method PhpQuickProfiler::getMicroTime() should not be called statically in /mnt/stor3-wc1-dfw1/357822/357839/www.millerwelds.com/web/content/lib/pqp/classes/Console.php on line 77

Warning: Non-static method PhpQuickProfiler::getMicroTime() should not be called statically in /mnt/stor3-wc1-dfw1/357822/357839/www.millerwelds.com/web/content/lib/pqp/classes/Console.php on line 77

Warning: Non-static method PhpQuickProfiler::getMicroTime() should not be called statically in /mnt/stor3-wc1-dfw1/357822/357839/www.millerwelds.com/web/content/lib/pqp/classes/Console.php on line 77

Warning: Non-static method PhpQuickProfiler::getMicroTime() should not be called statically in /mnt/stor3-wc1-dfw1/357822/357839/www.millerwelds.com/web/content/lib/pqp/classes/Console.php on line 77

Warning: Function split() is deprecated in /mnt/stor3-wc1-dfw1/357822/357839/www.millerwelds.com/web/content/lib/footer.inc.php on line 82

Welding Projects

Special Offers: See the latest Miller deals and promotions.