Hey all, i just picked up a older syncrowave 300 its a big unit, it also came with a coolmate 12 it has a water cooled torch, i pulged it in and everything comes on the fan the coolant pump, but it will not strike an ark. I do not know the history of the unit, i do know it does not have a pedal, aparently the pedal was optional. Does anyone have any info on this unit? I could use some help gettin this one goin! hopefully i can get it working
Thanks!
Results 1 to 10 of 21
Thread: Syncrowave 300 not working
-
04-19-2011, 09:25 PM #1
Junior Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2011
- Posts
- 11
Syncrowave 300 not working
-
04-19-2011, 10:43 PM #2
Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jun 2010
- Location
- Indianapolis Indiana
- Posts
- 200
Flip the contactor control switch to on or panel. Flip the amperage control to panel. Then strike an arc with the tungsten. Be careful, with this option turned on the torch is live all the time.
Miller 330 BPA - Sold
Miller 180SD Syncrowave - Sold
Miller Aircrafter 330ST - Sold
Miller 351 Syncrowave - Sold
Miller CP-300
Miller Maxstar 150 STL
Miller Dynasty 200 DX
Miller 135 Millermatic
Miller Spectrum 250D (Now running strong!)
-
04-20-2011, 04:58 AM #3
Junior Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2011
- Posts
- 11
Both switches contactor and amperage are in the pannel position, and still will not arc, is there any way of testing voltage or ouput to make sure somthing else is not wrong? thanks
-
04-20-2011, 11:16 AM #4
Senior Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2009
- Location
- Colorado
- Posts
- 148
Try to stick weld
See if it will stick weld.
Check to see if the cables are continuous with an ohmmeter. Could be that simple.
Unplug it, take off the cover, and see if anything looks wrong.
Richard
-
04-20-2011, 07:18 PM #5
Junior Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2011
- Posts
- 11
Well i tried to stick weld, and no good.. i put a volt meter between the "work" post and the "electrode" post NO output voltage, if it switch the Ac/Dc lever the meter switches from ac to dc but still no output, the cooler is running fine, and the fan is running fine, so there must be 110 voltage in the unit the board runs on thats same voltage so the board must be getting power.. any other thoughts? i have to covers off and everything seems to look fine, nothing burntup, broken corroded etc.
-
04-20-2011, 08:09 PM #6
Did you reset CB1 circuit breaker?
-
04-21-2011, 05:05 AM #7
Junior Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2011
- Posts
- 11
were is the CB1 breaker located? the only breaker that i see is the 115v control circuit breaker is this the one your refering to? it is located under the hinged door near the 115v duplex plug. if this is the breaker your refering to yes i pressed to reset that one but it is not labled CB1
FYI: if it helps the serial # of the unit is : JH152089Last edited by dontbuyitbuildit; 04-21-2011 at 05:07 AM.
-
04-21-2011, 07:35 AM #8
That is the one. If that circuit breaker trips it kills the control power to the panel, but of course it couldn't be that simple...
-
04-21-2011, 11:14 AM #9
Junior Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2011
- Posts
- 11
yea that breaker is not tripped, so any other thoughts? any way of isolating problems?
-
04-26-2011, 06:49 AM #10
Junior Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2011
- Posts
- 11
Any thoughts on how else to test this unit, could it be a board problem, a fuse or something else? im new to this welder and dont know too much about it. so if anyone has any diagnostic pocedures, send em my way! thanks!


Reply With Quote







