I've been Jonesing to break out the welding station again and tick off the neighbors with the grinders. So I got to work on the semi-privacy gates between my house and my neighbors. When I bought the place, there was only chainlink fencing. That stuff is an abomination in my opinion. So I got a load of tubing and got started.
My design is a frame of 2" tubing. Originally, that tubing was 11 gauge. That idea quickly changed to 16 gauge. I like using 4" for posts too even though that's probably overkill. It just looks cool.
Since I like incorporating wood and metal together in my projects, I decided to use angle iron for mounting some finished cedar with carriage bolts.
I also thought if you were going to make something that looks like a few thousand bucks, why use that cheesy Stanley gate hardware? My hinges are barrel hinges that are a double design so that the gate fully opens, but I had to connect them to keep them from acting independently. The door locks are mortised storm door locks.
They function like someone who knows what they are doing made them. I don't know what went wrong. Ha! I'm happy with them.
Results 1 to 10 of 13
Thread: Gate Project
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05-09-2011, 05:11 PM #1
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- Apr 2010
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- Jackson, MS
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Gate Project
MillerMatic 252
Spoolmate 200
Diversion 165
Spectrum 625 X-Treme
Dayton 6" Miter Band Saw
Delta Drill Press
Bosch 10" Table Saw
Bosch 12" Double Bevel Miter Saw
Jet 5 Ton Chain Hoist
Radnor O/A
and this heavy duty table I made
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05-09-2011, 05:15 PM #2
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- Apr 2010
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- Jackson, MS
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- 74
Oh yeah, I also had to make post caps and notch one of the posts so that a gas line on the neighbor's house could pass through. The notch was a little bit of a challenge, but I got to use my new die grinder a bunch with this project.
I'm pretty amazed at you pros. This may have taken you guys a day or two, but it took me probably about 10 days. Welding is hard but fun.MillerMatic 252
Spoolmate 200
Diversion 165
Spectrum 625 X-Treme
Dayton 6" Miter Band Saw
Delta Drill Press
Bosch 10" Table Saw
Bosch 12" Double Bevel Miter Saw
Jet 5 Ton Chain Hoist
Radnor O/A
and this heavy duty table I made
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05-10-2011, 12:16 PM #3
Senior Member
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- Apr 2011
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- 306
Wow...
...that turned out nice...care to divulge a material list/cost?
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05-11-2011, 06:07 AM #4
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- Jackson, MS
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I'm terrible about saving receipts. But I think they cost between $300 - $400 each by the time you add in grind and buffing wheels, paint, concrete, hardware, etc. Part of my problem is I don't have a way to get the 20' sticks to my house without killing someone on the highway. There ends up being a lot of scrap left over (for other projects) when I get it cut down in half for transport.
They are 75" x 72" and 65" x 74". There are 12" spacing between the top and bottom. The brackets for the wood are 1 1/4" angle with one side cut to 1" and the risers are 1" square tube x 1/2". That makes for 1/2" spacing between the boards and frame.MillerMatic 252
Spoolmate 200
Diversion 165
Spectrum 625 X-Treme
Dayton 6" Miter Band Saw
Delta Drill Press
Bosch 10" Table Saw
Bosch 12" Double Bevel Miter Saw
Jet 5 Ton Chain Hoist
Radnor O/A
and this heavy duty table I made
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05-11-2011, 09:56 AM #5
Senior Member
- Join Date
- May 2011
- Location
- Bossier Parish La.
- Posts
- 385
Another Sugestion?
If you have to get your material cut in half for safe transport, why not consider for your next project to build a rack for the back of your truck? That was one of the first projects I made after buying my welder. This allows you to carry 20' sticks(properly secured) without towing a trailer. It may be removed when not needed. This cuts down on scrap pieces left over and reduces overall project costs. If needed buy an extra piece or two for other small projects that come up.
By the way those gates do look nice, I wish I had a place in my yard that needed a set like that. Then I could make a similar set from those pics. On second thought there may be a place I could put some like that if I can catch-up on the other projects on the TO-DO list.
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05-11-2011, 06:33 PM #6
Senior Member
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- May 2011
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- Bossier Parish La.
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Truck Rack
If you decide to make a truck rack to haul material on, one main point I suggest is to make the front bar extend past the roof sheet metal of the cab. Otherwise you can get wind noise that increases with speed. Either from flutter of the sheet metal or just wind buffeting. I borrowed a rack from a neighbor to go get the material for my rack, and it was made for a standard cab, mine is extended cab. The roof vibrated so bad at highway speeds the radio couldn't drown it out. I drove two different trucks, same model, rack built by the same man, one with the rack close to the cab(with in 1"), one farther up(at least 4"), both terminated just behind the roof/windsheild point. Both created wind noise even though the front bar was installed 45 degrees to the wind, not with a flat side forward. Mine has the flat side to the wind but it is out over the glass and does not make wind noise. Make sure to build it with this in mind or else invest in a REAL POWERFUL audio system or hearing protection,maybe both. Also a rack is a good option because it needs no registration, no lights, no extra insurance. The only maintenance is a good coat of paint every few years, mine is due for one now and it was painted in Sept 2001.
Last edited by Bistineau; 05-11-2011 at 06:39 PM.
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03-03-2012, 06:51 PM #7
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- Feb 2012
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- illinois
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frame
What gauge steel did you use for the frame?
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03-04-2012, 09:11 AM #8
Senior Member
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- Oct 2007
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- Cave Creek Az
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You did a nice job. I hate to burst your bubble a little, however, if I couldn't turn out that gate in less than 6 hours I wouldn't make money at it. Granted, I make a lot of gates, have all of the supplies on hand, and get better prices on steel than you do. I don't even really make gates unless they are hand forged pieces any more. The only gates i do are more as favors for the contractors who buy a lot of ironwork from me.
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03-13-2012, 07:07 PM #9
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03-13-2012, 07:08 PM #10
oh and I think it turned out great...Keep up the good work!


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