I'm looking to improve the lines for my dry sump in my racer. I presently run almost 8' of -10 and -12 armored flexlines to the tank. I think this could be improved immensely with a nice hard line setup but as of yet haven't found the right tubing. I'll entertain both aluminum and steel if bends can be dealt with.
Many hours on Google doesn't find much mention of this minor fabrication challenge. Anybody know?
Thanx, Steve
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Thread: Hard lines for a dry sump
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05-08-2011, 02:44 PM #1
Hard lines for a dry sump
Miller Diversion 165
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05-08-2011, 03:26 PM #2
I'll be watching this thread
I'll be watching this one - There must be a better (and cheaper) way, although braided AN lines do look nice!DSC01298 (Large).jpg
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05-08-2011, 03:37 PM #3
Nice pic Willy, a tank for the dyno is one of the future concerns as well. I'm watching Ebay for either a cheapy for the dyno or a nice one to replace the one in the racer.
As an aside, doing a search on McMaster Carr for .049 wall tube I discover I've ordered 6' lengths of 3/4 and 5/8 tube in the past and have no idea where it went. Most likely I tried to bend it and screwed it all up
, just don't remember that at all...
Last edited by GT6Steve; 05-08-2011 at 03:49 PM. Reason: spelling
Miller Diversion 165
1966 Bridgeport Mill
Leblond 15x 35 Regal Servoshift lathe
Solberga SE 1425 Drill Press
Bigass Bandsaw
Hydraulic press
small surface grinder
Belt sander
Tons of grinders and hand tools
Knife edge Balancing rollers
Heat and AC in the garage
Jags and racing Triumphs
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05-08-2011, 03:42 PM #4
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McMaster will have it as you stated but make sure it is annealed. You will need a 37 degree flaring tool(hence the annealing) with tube nuts for the ends. Summit has those. Bending will be creative on your part. I have bent tube around argon tank bottles to broom sticks. Those benders you buy are a joke.
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05-10-2011, 01:32 AM #5
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Correction...some of the benders you can buy for small tube are a joke. I've had decent luck with some.
http://www.google.com/products/catal...d=0CFIQ8wIwAA#
The pliers can be helpful after you've put a tube nut on there already...the bender is actually really nice. Thats just my experience though. Of course it will always look better if you start with a straight piece of tube, and not a coil.Precision is only as important as the project...if you're building a rocket ship...1/64" would matter. If you're building a sledgehammer...an 1/8" probably wont.
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06-06-2011, 02:50 AM #6
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the -10 should be easy.. you can get 5/8 aluminum tubing all day. as far as -12. how much length do you need? Mcmaster has 3/4 aluminum tubing in varying wall thickness....
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06-06-2011, 07:11 PM #7
Miller Diversion 165
1966 Bridgeport Mill
Leblond 15x 35 Regal Servoshift lathe
Solberga SE 1425 Drill Press
Bigass Bandsaw
Hydraulic press
small surface grinder
Belt sander
Tons of grinders and hand tools
Knife edge Balancing rollers
Heat and AC in the garage
Jags and racing Triumphs
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06-15-2011, 06:52 PM #8
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Beyond 1/2", the hand benders won't do.
I would look at Baileigh RDB-25 (believe it or not Aircraft Spruce seems to have the best price right now) Its for thin wall tubing. If memory serves, .035wall 3/4 stainless is good for something like 1500psi. That is within the capacity of the RDB-25.
Ridgid makes a $100 flairing tool for 37deg flairs. Sometimes the best price on that is homedepot. They used to offer deep discounts on Ridgid tool - even special orders. Don't forget to check Ebay. Tools like that don't move fast and vendors might be able to deal.
I'm not sure what it takes to bend aluminum (thickness vs. radius etc.)
You can try places like: http://www.classictube.com/products.asp for price quotes. If you give them the shape they will bend it for you. Locally there are companies that specialize in hydraulic lines that will bend it for you as well. They typically don't have 37 deg flairs but you can fix that easy. In Maryland there is a chain called "Colliflower" - they are mid-Atlantic states mainly.
The big thing with hard lines is weight savings vs. the braided steel. But keep in mind you will spend 2x in fittings if you want to run flex lines at both ends.
On my list of things to do is to find a vender that sells AN fittings cheap. Spending $20 for a fitting at a speed shop just doesn't seem wise.Con Fuse!
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06-15-2011, 07:15 PM #9
OOh, Good advise. Thank You. I'll be researching from here...
Miller Diversion 165
1966 Bridgeport Mill
Leblond 15x 35 Regal Servoshift lathe
Solberga SE 1425 Drill Press
Bigass Bandsaw
Hydraulic press
small surface grinder
Belt sander
Tons of grinders and hand tools
Knife edge Balancing rollers
Heat and AC in the garage
Jags and racing Triumphs
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06-17-2011, 01:53 AM #10
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I use a Ridgid 358 (5/8") rachet tubing bender for stainless tubing, they have 368
(3/4") as well 378 (7/8") tubing. Check ebay and get lucky. I paid $135 for the 358 it is almost brand new used for one small job then placed on ebay. A dream machine of a tool. Already have Ridgid 400 series benders 3/8", 5/16", 1/4" for automotive trans, engine, power steering coolers and lines. I'm also a believer of hard lines vs rubber hose crap that can fail.
It works for 1/2" ID home brewing rigs. http://www.google.com/products/catal...d=0CDgQ8wIwAw#Last edited by biernut; 06-17-2011 at 02:01 AM.


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