Miller 212 sloppy/spitty starts

[shadetree80]

Replaced my great working 210 for a 212. Was in the middle of a job and the 210 took a dump est time of repair was unexceptable so bought a 212. Back to shop figgering this is gittin' me out of the sh***er wrong. Cold spitty starts xtra cleanup changed wire increased gas flow to 35 same problem. Back to the shop/new startcard/back to shop/same problem, cost me 4 hrs ----put machine in corner used my Esab 250 to finish/now it's back in the shop''Keep It Til It Work's''.
Any problems with 212's?

[jbmprods]

i had the same problem with my 252 till i got rid of the POS ground clamp and put a quality one on it. helped a lot. changed out the m25 gun for a Radnor pro 250 for more flex/comfort and if i run to long of a stick out it pop gun starts. it doesn't like more than 3/8". just 2 things to try. i use c25 @20 cf.

[aametalmaster]

What size wire were you running...Bob

[cruizer]

Yep, like I've been mentioning on alot of threads, the problem has to do with the crappy ground clamps both Miller and Lincoln were/are still putting out. If the ground clamps has NO brass contacts and feels loose when you open the jaws. REPLACE it.

Problems simply go away.

[nedster]

Cruizer's ground clamp advice on an older thread helped with the same problem on my MM251. I also set the run-in to 80% and that seemed to clean it up. Much softer starts now. BTW If you're going to a brass ground clamp, the HF offering is actually pretty good quality. I took a copper lug from HF, cut off the lug part and gently crimped the lug sleeve to the cable before inserting it in the clamp and tightening the bolt. Works great.

[jbmprods]

Cruizer's ground clamp advice on an older thread helped with the same problem on my MM251. I also set the run-in to 80% and that seemed to clean it up. Much softer starts now. BTW If you're going to a brass ground clamp, the HF offering is actually pretty good quality. I took a copper lug from HF, cut off the lug part and gently crimped the lug sleeve to the cable before inserting it in the clamp and tightening the bolt. Works great.

thin wall copper tubing is what i use. i'll have try the run in. my 252 starts with a bang sometimes to the point it welds the wire to the tip. just a quick scratch to the metal while tapping the trigger melts it loose though and i'm good to go. thats the hardest thing i've had to get used to over my mm175. love the soft start it has.

[cruizer]

There is a warranty update for the 252.s where they incorporate a connector at RC8 as the exsisting connector does not make a secure enough contact. these are the power supply leads to run the board.

I see its not listed as a service memo, though if any warranty is done on a 252, this lead is provided.

[shadetree80]

It doesn't matter what size wire,my old 210 was a far superior machine. The grd clamp sounds like a good idea. I believe in the K.I.S.S principle.

[jbmprods]

There is a warranty update for the 252.s where they incorporate a connector at RC8 as the exsisting connector does not make a secure enough contact. these are the power supply leads to run the board.

I see its not listed as a service memo, though if any warranty is done on a 252, this lead is provided.

thanks cruizer.
is this for all 252's or is there a prior ser.# where this update applies?

[cruizer]

Not sure on the serial #, however, if you happen to open yours, on the bottom of the board, you'll either have a direct plugin with the copper wires attched to the molex receptacle (RC-8), or you'll have another harness attaching to the board and down to the auxillary connector. The latter would be the new one.

Miller may be adding this connecter on a case by case senario. however say if you had a machine comming off warranty, you should definately inquire about this update. You don't want a poofed board out of warranty for sure!