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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Portland,Or
    Posts
    5

    Default Miller 212 sloppy/spitty starts

    Replaced my great working 210 for a 212. Was in the middle of a job and the 210 took a dump est time of repair was unexceptable so bought a 212. Back to shop figgering this is gittin' me out of the sh***er wrong. Cold spitty starts xtra cleanup changed wire increased gas flow to 35 same problem. Back to the shop/new startcard/back to shop/same problem, cost me 4 hrs ----put machine in corner used my Esab 250 to finish/now it's back in the shop''Keep It Til It Work's''.
    Any problems with 212's?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Chico, Ca.
    Posts
    316

    Default

    i had the same problem with my 252 till i got rid of the POS ground clamp and put a quality one on it. helped a lot. changed out the m25 gun for a Radnor pro 250 for more flex/comfort and if i run to long of a stick out it pop gun starts. it doesn't like more than 3/8". just 2 things to try. i use c25 @20 cf.
    Last edited by jbmprods; 02-08-2011 at 10:12 PM.
    miller 225 bobcat
    miller aead200le (with miller hf tig trailer mounted)
    mm175, mm211, TA181i
    mm252 w/30a spool gun
    precision tig 225
    hobart stickmate LX ac/dc
    Speedglas 9100X & XX / Miller Digital Elite
    hypertherm 380 & cutmaster 52
    victor journeyman & super range
    ridgid chop saw, kalamazoo band saw
    steel max and evolution carbide saws
    6 4.5" & a 20lb 9" rockwell grinders
    case 580 backhoe (for what i can"t lift)
    if first you don't succeed
    trash the b#####d

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Salem ,Ohio
    Posts
    3,919

    Cool

    What size wire were you running...Bob
    Bob Wright, Grandson of Tee Nee Boat Trailer Founder
    Metal Master Fab Salem, Oh 44460
    Birthplace of the Silver & Deming Drill
    1999 MM185 w/185 Spoolgun,1986 Thunderbolt AC/DC
    Spool Gun conversion. How To Do It. Below.
    http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...php?albumid=48

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Posts
    7,910

    Default

    Yep, like I've been mentioning on alot of threads, the problem has to do with the crappy ground clamps both Miller and Lincoln were/are still putting out. If the ground clamps has NO brass contacts and feels loose when you open the jaws. REPLACE it.

    Problems simply go away.

  5. #5

    Default

    Cruizer's ground clamp advice on an older thread helped with the same problem on my MM251. I also set the run-in to 80% and that seemed to clean it up. Much softer starts now. BTW If you're going to a brass ground clamp, the HF offering is actually pretty good quality. I took a copper lug from HF, cut off the lug part and gently crimped the lug sleeve to the cable before inserting it in the clamp and tightening the bolt. Works great.
    Lincoln AC/DC Buzz Box (where it all began)
    DialArc 250
    Syncrowave 180 SD
    MM 251

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Chico, Ca.
    Posts
    316

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by nedster View Post
    Cruizer's ground clamp advice on an older thread helped with the same problem on my MM251. I also set the run-in to 80% and that seemed to clean it up. Much softer starts now. BTW If you're going to a brass ground clamp, the HF offering is actually pretty good quality. I took a copper lug from HF, cut off the lug part and gently crimped the lug sleeve to the cable before inserting it in the clamp and tightening the bolt. Works great.
    thin wall copper tubing is what i use. i'll have try the run in. my 252 starts with a bang sometimes to the point it welds the wire to the tip. just a quick scratch to the metal while tapping the trigger melts it loose though and i'm good to go. thats the hardest thing i've had to get used to over my mm175. love the soft start it has.
    miller 225 bobcat
    miller aead200le (with miller hf tig trailer mounted)
    mm175, mm211, TA181i
    mm252 w/30a spool gun
    precision tig 225
    hobart stickmate LX ac/dc
    Speedglas 9100X & XX / Miller Digital Elite
    hypertherm 380 & cutmaster 52
    victor journeyman & super range
    ridgid chop saw, kalamazoo band saw
    steel max and evolution carbide saws
    6 4.5" & a 20lb 9" rockwell grinders
    case 580 backhoe (for what i can"t lift)
    if first you don't succeed
    trash the b#####d

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Posts
    7,910

    Default

    There is a warranty update for the 252.s where they incorporate a connector at RC8 as the exsisting connector does not make a secure enough contact. these are the power supply leads to run the board.

    I see its not listed as a service memo, though if any warranty is done on a 252, this lead is provided.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Portland,Or
    Posts
    5

    Default

    It doesn't matter what size wire,my old 210 was a far superior machine. The grd clamp sounds like a good idea. I believe in the K.I.S.S principle.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Chico, Ca.
    Posts
    316

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by cruizer View Post
    There is a warranty update for the 252.s where they incorporate a connector at RC8 as the exsisting connector does not make a secure enough contact. these are the power supply leads to run the board.

    I see its not listed as a service memo, though if any warranty is done on a 252, this lead is provided.
    thanks cruizer.
    is this for all 252's or is there a prior ser.# where this update applies?
    miller 225 bobcat
    miller aead200le (with miller hf tig trailer mounted)
    mm175, mm211, TA181i
    mm252 w/30a spool gun
    precision tig 225
    hobart stickmate LX ac/dc
    Speedglas 9100X & XX / Miller Digital Elite
    hypertherm 380 & cutmaster 52
    victor journeyman & super range
    ridgid chop saw, kalamazoo band saw
    steel max and evolution carbide saws
    6 4.5" & a 20lb 9" rockwell grinders
    case 580 backhoe (for what i can"t lift)
    if first you don't succeed
    trash the b#####d

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Posts
    7,910

    Default

    Not sure on the serial #, however, if you happen to open yours, on the bottom of the board, you'll either have a direct plugin with the copper wires attched to the molex receptacle (RC-8), or you'll have another harness attaching to the board and down to the auxillary connector. The latter would be the new one.

    Miller may be adding this connecter on a case by case senario. however say if you had a machine comming off warranty, you should definately inquire about this update. You don't want a poofed board out of warranty for sure!
    Last edited by cruizer; 02-10-2011 at 05:08 PM.

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