I recently retired, and finally have time to get to some projects that I've wanted to start for years. I am taking a beginning welding course at the local community college. Last week I bought a Hobart Handler 210 welder.
An old Navy vet friend of mine used to talk about the "Lazy J" pattern that he learned in the Navy. I have done a little searching on various welding sites and I haven't found any illustrations of the Lazy J pattern.
Can someone post illustrations of the technique? What benefits does it have over other patterns, and does it work best when pulling or pushing a MIG gun?
Results 1 to 5 of 5
Thread: Lazy J welding pattern?
02-24-2011, 06:02 PM #1Junior Member
- Join Date
- Feb 2011
Lazy J welding pattern?
02-24-2011, 06:10 PM #2Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jan 2009
- Whitehorse, Yukon
The only thing I can say about any type of torch manipulation while MIG welding is:
LESS WEAVING, MORE WELDING!!!
The guy that I apprenticed under back in the day would shout that at the back of my head whenever he caught me "herring boning, lasy J-ing, circling or figure 8-ing". Having said that, sometimes a little
wiggling or pushing is required when welding awkward positions. For a horizontal weld I will loop up to the top side of the weld a little to make it stick.Big Blue 400D
Miller S-32 suitcase
Lincoln LN-7 (BIG suitcase)
Lincoln 350MP with 35' push-pull gun
Lincoln PrecisionTIG 375
Spectrum 1000 plasma cutter
02-24-2011, 11:06 PM #3
Between odd positions, fit up differences, arc blow and who knows what other variables get thrown at you I've found that there is no one magic pattern or weave that makes a perfect weld everytime. Watch the the puddle, and to some extent the arc, and do whatever it takes to get the results you desire.
My .02 $'sDynasty 200DX, first generationMakita 5" grinder
Makita 14" abrasive sawIR SS5L compressorWhole bunch of hand/air tools.and a wish list a mile long
03-02-2011, 06:10 AM #4Senior Member
- Join Date
- Feb 2007
- asheville n.c.
I use it at times if im welding painted materials. (At times its not always possible to clean off paint). I watch the puddle and normally go side to side for galvanized or paint. When im welding thick to thin out of position such as chinese vertical, such as diagonal bracing i will use a "j" pattern. Everyone welds different and no one application is necessarily better than the other.
03-02-2011, 08:16 PM #5Member
- Join Date
- Mar 2011
This is my first post on this forum but I have been mig welding for 10 yrs. so I figured I would try to help if I can so here goes. Any weaving in mig welding is only really needed if short arc welding, the j pattern can be used for this although I personally do not use it I was showed how to at one time and found it too tedious. It basically works like this. start at the root then move to The point on the top shaft of the j and stall slightly (this is your upper point on a fillet weld) you then weave straight down and loop up and the second short stall point will be at the end point of the loop which should also be the root of the weld then a slight angle backup to next point of shaft and so on separating the patterns by the bead stack intended. the point I got from my instruction of this technique (from an old timer) is that the top stall gets the puddle moving and ties in the toe then the more rapid movement of the shaft and loop make the puddle form a bead and it wont build up too much. the bottom toe is formed by the puddle and is tied in because of the heat of the puddle you have formed. then the second stall is for penetrating the root. It does make for better tie in and penetration on anything thicker than 1/4". If you want to short arc anything under 1/4" I would suggest a simpler half moon shape pattern instead or even a circular one. either way you feel comfortable and get the best results is fine. If you turn up the settings it is much easier to learn spray welding on flat joints IMO as there is really no need to weave most of the time.
Hope this helps.