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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    VA
    Posts
    5

    Default another table project

    yes I to am building a welding table. i drew up some plans and am underway it's going to be 36"x72" half 3/8" plate and half 2"x2" skeleton top. 2"x2" frame for the top with 4"x1/2" thick angle iron legs. and 1"x1" frame for the storage shelf. i'm using 1/2 bolts for adjustable feet.

    first issue i have run into:
    i have a 3'x3' 3/8"plate that is bowed about 1/4 inch on one edge what is the best way to compensate for the bowing? i'm considering welding a cross brace 4'' 1/2" thick angle on the bottom. maybe forcing it with a forklift and then stitch welding it.

    I'm stuck using this plate as my top.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Terrell, TX
    Posts
    12

    Default

    Heat the plate on the bowed side along the whole length >( and then quench with water. That will draw the plate. It's not an exact science but it will get you close enough that you can hopefully flatten and weld easier.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Terrell, TX
    Posts
    12

    Default

    Just read my post again and it could be confusing. Looking at the bowed end of the plate you would heat from front to back (or back to front, your choice)

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    VA
    Posts
    5

    Default

    ended up welding angle to the back side.

    5483331145_ff14e03039.jpg
    5483330975_9d6854650c_z.jpg
    5483924622_822fb57b34_z.jpg
    5483924460_fcafed5881_z.jpg

    half 3/8 plate half 2x2" 1/8" wall tube

    2x2" 1/8" wall top frame
    4" 1/2" thick angle legs
    1x1" shelf covered with expanded metal
    1/2" bolts for leg adjustment / leveling

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Alberta, Canada
    Posts
    42

    Default

    Looks like you did a fine job with the table. Well done!

    Gord

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Bronson, Fl
    Posts
    168

    Default

    Looks darn nice to me. If you have the material and the time I would add a catch tray under the open part of the table to catch small dropped parts and to keep slag and grinder dust from accumulating in stuff on the shelf. But it is a really nice table, well though out and executed. Keep up the good work.
    Bob

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    VA
    Posts
    5

    Default

    that's Rbeckett i think i will add that tray when i get the time.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    329

    Default

    Hi secretdestroyers,

    Your table design looks great.

    I offer my input after more than a a year of using my table which is similar to your design.

    Several years ago, I won a bid on a rush job.

    Job needed a level of precision I could not get with my old weld table so I bought one from www.stronghandtools.com.

    I know this is truly against the theme of welders/fabricators making their own tools and equipment but I was in a bind. The job paid for the new table but but I could have made my own if only I had 3 weeks extra time.

    Anyway, I offer my advice after using this table for 14 months.

    Works great and I would suggest (very strongly) to add a screen or tray under it to catch stuff that falls through the "cracks".

    I have added one after much frustration (and cussing) after my small parts have fallen through the table openings.

    Kind of like the netting one sees under a bridge project ovet water or a highway.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Thermal Arc GTSW400, Airco Heliwelder II, Miller Dynasty 350, Hypertherm 1000, oxy-fuel setup, metal cutting bandsaw, air compressor, drill press, etc.:

    Call me the "Clouseau" of welding !

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    22

    Default

    Nice looking table.

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