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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    1,031

    Default Exhaust Expansion Chamber Dent Removal

    I have, ride and fix two stroke dirt bikes.
    One issue that needs repair every now and then is the dents that form in the expansion chamber after a fall or hitting something on the trail.

    After every ride I always wash the bikes and while doing this I usually find what needs tightening or whatever.
    The last time I discovered a large dent in the expansion chamber of the exhaust pipe.

    There are a few ways to remove dents.
    a) Buy another pipe,
    b) Cut open pipe and panel beat out the dent,
    c) Fill with water and freeze,
    d) Plug both ends of pipe and pressurize with compressed air,
    e) drill a hole in the opposite side and rod the dent out...........

    I like TIG welding so I decided to weld a threaded rod to the centre of the dent and pull it out.

    Ji gantor
    Last edited by Jigantor; 02-15-2011 at 04:43 PM.
    Grip it and Rip it

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    1,031

    Default

    The pipe before I started.
    I did not drop the bike so I do not know what made the dent most likely a hidden rock or a tree branch that levered up as I rode over it.
    Nomatter we have a dent that needs removing

    Ji
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    Grip it and Rip it

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    1,031

    Default

    I welded the threaded rod to the centre of the dent and used a length of steel angle as a lever. To get the right pull angle I chocked with a piece of wood.
    The dent popped straight away, but to get even more of the shape I flame heated the area and levered from different angles and positions.

    Ji
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    Grip it and Rip it

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
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    Default

    I than cut the threaded rod off and sanded the weld back down.
    It is still a little bit rough but the whole process only took a few minutes and cost very little.

    Ji
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Grip it and Rip it

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Chico, Ca.
    Posts
    316

    Default

    sounds like you need to invest in a stud welder kit. (google it) you weld several studs on the dents and use the stud knocker puller that comes with the kit to remove the dent. then just snip the studs off with a pair of wire cutters. mine is made by motor guard. was about $600.00 US when i bought it years ago. harbor freight in the states sell cheaper ones for around 100 bucks.
    miller 225 bobcat
    miller aead200le (with miller hf tig trailer mounted)
    mm175, mm211, TA181i
    mm252 w/30a spool gun
    precision tig 225
    hobart stickmate LX ac/dc
    Speedglas 9100X & XX / Miller Digital Elite
    hypertherm 380 & cutmaster 52
    victor journeyman & super range
    ridgid chop saw, kalamazoo band saw
    steel max and evolution carbide saws
    6 4.5" & a 20lb 9" rockwell grinders
    case 580 backhoe (for what i can"t lift)
    if first you don't succeed
    trash the b#####d

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    1,031

    Default

    Hi jbmprods,
    The problem is that those stud welders are made to work with 110 volts I think while we have 240 volts.
    They do look easier to use.

    Ji
    Grip it and Rip it

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Chico, Ca.
    Posts
    316

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Jigantor View Post
    Hi jbmprods,
    The problem is that those stud welders are made to work with 110 volts I think while we have 240 volts.
    They do look easier to use.

    Ji
    that would tend to be a problem huh lol. they are easy to use. i used to do a lot of body and fender work as well as painting and the stud welder made life a whole lot easier then drilling holes for screws and having to weld them closed and grind them off. well how about doing what you are doing with the tig and using a standard knocker puller.
    miller 225 bobcat
    miller aead200le (with miller hf tig trailer mounted)
    mm175, mm211, TA181i
    mm252 w/30a spool gun
    precision tig 225
    hobart stickmate LX ac/dc
    Speedglas 9100X & XX / Miller Digital Elite
    hypertherm 380 & cutmaster 52
    victor journeyman & super range
    ridgid chop saw, kalamazoo band saw
    steel max and evolution carbide saws
    6 4.5" & a 20lb 9" rockwell grinders
    case 580 backhoe (for what i can"t lift)
    if first you don't succeed
    trash the b#####d

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Kitchener, On, Ca
    Posts
    11

    Default

    At the bike shop that I used to work in, we had a setup for pulling dents out of pipes. We actually did it almost daily. We had clamp-on plugs for each end of the pipe. One plug had a male quick-connect airline fitting, a pressure gauge and a shut-off valve. The inside of the pipe was pressurized to 90(? if I remember correctly) psi and the valve was closed to hold that. Then the dented area was heated with an oxy-acetylene torch untill it popped out.
    Last edited by PeterTrocewicz; 02-16-2011 at 08:02 AM.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Bronson, Fl
    Posts
    168

    Default

    Jig, I have a YZ 250 2stroke and I almost always drill across from the dent, pound it back out and weld the hole. We have heated it to red hot and used compressed air but that is hard to control and unreliable in the results dept. My FMF Gnarly has a couple of small dings in the area near where it connects to the head and that may be the end of it if I cant access the dents without too much drilling and heat. Good luck!!!
    Bob

  10. #10

    Default

    Now days they just use dry ice.

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