I am building a welding cart for my new welding machine.
It is a copy of a design I saw that was built around a Syncrowave 250.
The design made sense to me.
The blue paint is Rustoleum industrial (tall spray can) #7524. Matches very close to the Miller blue.
The top tubular cage on my design will unbolt to be removed if necessary.
I plan to put a tray on top of mine to hold a water cooling unit.
I can hardly wait to try out the new machine but first I need to get a water cooler with WP-20 torch. I will be comparing it to a Miller Syncrowave 250 which I have used on a daily basis for at least thirteen years 6 hours per day.
I will report back.
Results 1 to 10 of 14
01-19-2011, 05:16 PM #1
Miller Syncrowave 200 welding cart
Last edited by Donald Branscom; 01-19-2011 at 05:44 PM. Reason: Add detail
01-19-2011, 06:15 PM #2
Nice job. So you didn't build the cart with your new toy? I thought that's what you did with a new unit. LOL.Miller PassPort Plus
Miller Spoolmate 100
Fontaine Renegade LXT40 LowBoy
Kobota D1005 W / Meccalte 10KW Generator End
01-19-2011, 06:28 PM #3
Hope you enjoy your new toy!
01-19-2011, 06:51 PM #4
01-19-2011, 07:05 PM #5
01-19-2011, 09:07 PM #6
Nice job, clean build, good lines, like the tubing design you used. Good attention to details, I appreciate the rounded corners on the flat steel. Well done!
01-19-2011, 11:08 PM #7Senior Member
- Join Date
- Mar 2007
- Deltaville, VA
That thing can't be any good. It's got digital meters.
I could have sworn that you made the comment that digital meters were crap. That analog meters (and your mind) were the way to go.Syncrowave 250 DX Tigrunner
Dynasty 200 DX
Miller XMT 304 w/714D Feeder & Optima Control
Miller MM 251 w/Q300 & 30A SG
Dialarc 250 AC/DC
Hypertherm PM 600 & 1250
Wilton 7"x12" bandsaw
PC Dry Cut Saw, Dewalt Chop Saw
Milwaukee 8" Metal Cut Saw, Milwaukee Portaband.
Thermco and Smith (2) Gas Mixers
More grinders than hands
01-21-2011, 10:20 AM #8
This machine (Syncrowave 200) is more appropriate for my home shop and home electrical system.
I already found out that to adjust the arc starting mode Soft,med,hard, you have to turn off the power, then turn on the power WHILE holding down (seven seconds) on the "A"(amp) button to select one of the three modes.. The workshop manual does not say HOW you select one of the three modes though.
The default for arc start is MEDIUM. (thats good)
Who carries a stop watch?
I would rather have had a knob with 3 detents. soft, med, hard.
But the newer generation just loves to peck at little buttons with multiple modes.
I have noticed they are trying to make the welding machines almost all automatic (Diversion 165), because the young men now don't understand all those buttons and the manufacturers want to baby them along so they won't have to actually learn what those buttons do. They would not want to actually take a class.
I understand that creative people want to create and not really learn to weld, but sooner or later they will have to learn more about the welding processes.
Last edited by Donald Branscom; 01-24-2011 at 07:42 AM.
01-21-2011, 03:46 PM #9
Today I fabricated ,designed, and welded the gas bottle bottom support to the welding dolly.
I used 10 Ga. plate.
Last edited by Donald Branscom; 01-21-2011 at 03:54 PM.
01-22-2011, 04:54 PM #10
TIG welding tip for today.
When you look at a welding machine designed for TIG welding you will often see a knob that says POST FLOW.
This knob adjusts the amount of seconds argon gas comes out of the welding torch after you release the foot pedal or hand torch control.
Your torch should stay over the end of the weld during this time. The gas coming out also helps get rid of heat.
Select 10-12 seconds for steel or stainless and increase the time for aluminum.
If you are welding aluminum make sure crater fill is ON also if the machine has that feature so that the last part of the weld does not get a crater (and hole) in the end of the weld. That would be a stress riser in the end of the weldment.
Crater fill makes the arc extinguish slowly.