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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Indiana
    Posts
    541

    Default

    Yep I have cut 3 1/2" holes in 1/2" plate using a hole saw with my drill press.
    But even using a hand drill ,speed and feed. I use a hand drill for tapping holes also, 4-40 to 1/2 inch. Too lazy for hand tap wrench.
    Tim Beeker,
    T-N-J Industries
    (my side bussiness)

    Miller Synchrowave 350LX with tigrunner
    Esab 450i with wire feeder
    HH135 mig
    Thermal Dynamics cutmaster 51 plasma cutter
    Miller aircrafter 330 - sold
    Marathon 315mm coldsaw
    vertical and horizontal band saws
    table saw
    Dewalt cut off saw
    Sand blast cabinet
    lots of hand grinders
    Harris torch
    beer fridge

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    West Georgia
    Posts
    103

    Default hand drill tapping

    Quote Originally Posted by tnjind View Post
    I use a hand drill for tapping holes also, 4-40 to 1/2 inch. Too lazy for hand tap wrench.
    Wow, that sounds pretty bold. I imagine you broke a few trying to get the feel of it. Or, maybe you have very high quality taps. I recently did 16 3/8 in. holes for a set of casters. That did get old. I was really afraid I might break my cheap Lowes tap even doing it by hand.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Indiana
    Posts
    541

    Default

    Been doing this for a few years, I did break a few, its all in the feel. I use cordless drills, 18volt or bigger. I have Porter Cable 19.2 that is a real workhorse. I am on the second chuck, I use channel locks to tighten it with 1/2 taps.
    Tim Beeker,
    T-N-J Industries
    (my side bussiness)

    Miller Synchrowave 350LX with tigrunner
    Esab 450i with wire feeder
    HH135 mig
    Thermal Dynamics cutmaster 51 plasma cutter
    Miller aircrafter 330 - sold
    Marathon 315mm coldsaw
    vertical and horizontal band saws
    table saw
    Dewalt cut off saw
    Sand blast cabinet
    lots of hand grinders
    Harris torch
    beer fridge

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Abilene, Texas
    Posts
    639

    Default

    I've got a couple of sets of older Craftsman HSS bits up to 1/2" that have been decent to me. I've got other various ones up to 1". I do keep them sharp and don't burn them up with speed. Keeping a bit sharp is the key to success. No cutting tool works very good when dull. Sharpening a bit isn't difficult if you own a bench grinder with a fairly fine wheel on it. I use the side of the wheel and duplicate the angle of a new bit. If you don't know what that is, go get a new bit and hold it against the wheel to get the idea. Use water and don't burn the bit up on the grinder! If you keep them fairly sharp it doesn't take much to touch them up and keep them like new.
    Jim

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Indiana
    Posts
    541

    Default

    jim-TX just like chainsaw, keep it sharp and sharpen often.
    Tim Beeker,
    T-N-J Industries
    (my side bussiness)

    Miller Synchrowave 350LX with tigrunner
    Esab 450i with wire feeder
    HH135 mig
    Thermal Dynamics cutmaster 51 plasma cutter
    Miller aircrafter 330 - sold
    Marathon 315mm coldsaw
    vertical and horizontal band saws
    table saw
    Dewalt cut off saw
    Sand blast cabinet
    lots of hand grinders
    Harris torch
    beer fridge

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Vancouver, Washington
    Posts
    51

    Default

    I have two sets of Chinese made Zirconium Nitride bit sets one I bought about 3 years ago at Costco. I think it has Master Grip printed on the front and another I just recently purchased at HF. Both sold for around $50.00us and appear to be the same bits. They have approximately 100 bits in fractions, wire gauge and letter gauge. Very handy for matching taps with drills. The Master grip set has been very durable and the bits stay sharp for a long time. I drilled 112, holes in 1X2 steel bar for a shelf pin hole guide. I also have a Dewalt set that has not been as durable as the Chinese made drills. The Chinese drills are all different lengths, if you compare different sets next to each other the drills of the same size will often be different lengths. I believe these sets are made up of industrial drills that have been re-sharpened and re-coated. Not sure but it makes sense to me and would explain the high quality steel at such a low price. As said above speed is very important, slower for larger dia and faster for smaller. Plenty of coolant/lube for steel. Aluminum is not a coolant critical as long as the bit is sharp and cutting in new material each revolution.

    Paul

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Alberta Red Deer
    Posts
    373

    Default

    well for the bits i buy viking tools bits but once again have to keep sharp and use the right pressure. as for cutting oil i use rapid tap for general holes but it does not weld well. water soluble oil that u use in ur band saw for holes that get welded that cant get a clean up, but my trick for lots of holes in thick material i use kerosene. yes it does work freaking awesome its a old millwright trick. one 1/2 in drill bit drilling 2.5" thick material lasted 35 holes not bad for a $30 bit.
    trail blazer 302
    hypertherm plasma
    millermatic 251
    high feq. arc starter
    suit case (extreme 12vs)
    o/a torches
    way to many other tools to list

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Queens NY
    Posts
    1,547

    Default

    i think the chinese bits in the huge sets are very brittle. they cut well and last long but i did hang one up (3/8") and one side of the tip snapped clean off.

    i have several sets of bits but my go to set is an irwin from costco and they have lasted very long with care. for steel, slow speed and high pressure. if you getting curlies and there not blue your doing well.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Fraser Valley, BC
    Posts
    593

    Default

    At work they used to order two types of drill bits (don't ask why... ), some were cheap junk and the others were TiNi coated Norseman bits. The Cheapies usually lasted about 10 holes with a hand drill and that was about it. The Norseman's would go for a very long time as long as you didn't do anything stupid, but the do cost a lot more.

    Bit speed is crucial to making fast, efficient cuts and helping extend the life of the drill bit. I recomend finding a speed chart from a manufacture or reputable source, just remember slower is not always better. Running a 1/4" drill bit on the slowest speed only prolongs the agony of drilling the whole and wears the bit out faster.
    Dynasty 200DX, first generation
    Makita 5" grinder
    Makita 14" abrasive saw
    IR SS5L compressor
    Whole bunch of hand/air tools.
    and a wish list a mile long

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Mid - MIchigan
    Posts
    37

    Default homier drills

    this bit is from an outfit that shows up in town every now and then and sets up for a few days and sells tools and whatever. This bit was used to drill holes in wood for picnic table seats. The guy hit a steel brace on the other side of the wood. He was using this in a battery operated drill. When I saw it I thought it was some specialty drill. Silly me.
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