Top for welding table; material? thickness?

[1Winder]

Hello all,

I just received a bunch of mild steel angle iron and plan to build my first project, a welding table. I have 2" for the legs and 1 or 1.5 for bracing and cross members. What I really could use is some recommendations on what slap on the top. I plan to go 30"W * 60"L * 35"H. May use two 30*30 pieces for the top or just one piece haven't decided yet.

I am thinking somewhere between 3/16 to 3/8 for the top, but should I use mild steel or stainless?

Any and all replies are greatly appreciated.

Thanks Again.


Edit: does anyone where I can obtain such previously said material in central NJ, I am in Sayreville.

[Broccoli1]

Mild Steel will do just fine.


have you even priced 3/8" SS

[Jim-TX]

I built a table about 66" x 48" and used 3/8 for the top. It's framed with 3" x 3" angle iron under the top. If I were doing it again I'd use no less than 1/2" mild steel plate.

[Jack Olsen]

The reason to go thicker is if you're going to be banging on the thing as part of your fabrication work. Thicker steel will take longer to lose its flatness.

I do most of my welding on a table that's only 1/8" thick.

But I have a different table for hammering.

[1Winder]

Well I had planed on getting the top today but the truck wasn't available. So tomorrow I should be able to get it.

I have: 1* 10ft length of 2" angle iron
5* 10ft lengths of 1.5" angle iron
1* 7.5ft length of 2" square tubing


any tips on fabricating the base? I was planing on using the 2" angle iron for legs with 5" to 8" leveling mount legs. With the 1.5" angle iron for bracing, the top, and as brackets for a lower shelf.

This is my fist project so any info will definitely help. I will keep half inch plate in mind tomorrow but don't know if I can afford it right now.

[seattle smitty]

It helps if you state the thickness along with the other dims of the steel angle, tube, etc., that you're working with.
Sounds like what you have MIGHT be sort of light-duty for a table that really gets whaled-on. So, instead of trying to use the lightweight bracing under 1/2" plate, maybe use what you have to build a somewhat portable work table. With folding legs, you can load it into your pickup, . . . but maybe not with a 1/2'' steel top, unless you're a real he-man.

[1Winder]

2011-01-11_15-22-04_147.jpg2011-01-11_15-22-22_964.jpgI have 2" angle iron for the legs, 30" long, will include a leveling system. I plan to box out the top with 1.5" angle iron, and the bottom too. Maybe I will add some triangles for bracing or six legs instead of just four.

I have a length of 2" square tubing too about 7.5 feet long, 8 feet of 2 or 3 inch tube, some extra 1.5" angle iron, and a bunch of 1" tube I found at the garbage dump that are mildly near the ends. That gives me approx 4 or 5 foot each of straight 1" tube.

I am really wondering what to do with the square 2x2 tubing, maybe a cross brace on top from corner to corner, if its long enough. Maybe use it for a fifth leg in the center and use the 1.5" angle iron to cross brace the top?

Not sure if these are the good or bad pics of my material, no thumbnail to view, sorry if I have to repost them when I get back

[Ray C.]

I would think thicker is best. Don't forget to leave a lip to clamp to.

[Bob Miller]

Like Ray said leave room for the deepest throated clamp you have, or in the future.
3/8'' is a good thickness for the size of your legs. Use SS only if you don't have magnetic clamps or fixtures.
Good Luck,
Bob

[Alloytoys]

I built a table with a 3/4" top. If I do it again I will go with 1/2". The 3/4" is not perfectly flat unless you get pre-flattened from the mill (BIG$$$). It is too hard to try to pull it flat to get a good tru work surface.