Perfect. We will have a 1/32 gap the whole way around on the slots, and we will put larger holes at the end, also with a 1/32 gap the whole way around.
You all have been extremely helpful. Any other ideas before we start hunting down metal? Specifically, are there any areas you see that may limit future expandability? (We're working on thicker legs per several suggestions).
ASME@USF
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Thread: First Project - Work Tables
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01-04-2011, 06:31 AM #31
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01-04-2011, 08:43 AM #32
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I probably would have put the jack bolts centered directly under the legs, and put the casters on the cantilever. The reasoning is the jack bolts are going to get used with the table loaded, and you're hammering around on things. The casters are going to get used to move an unloaded table across the room.
You can drill and tap the 1/2" material at the bottom of the tube and then insert the jack bolts up from the bottom. If you don't feel like tapping, just tack weld a nut on (it'll be in compression so you can just tack it) Also use a jamb nut to avoid the jack bolts moving after you have your table leveled.
When I built my table I wanted a massive top piece. After seeing the price I dropped back to a 1/2" piece, but I compensated by having a very rigid frame underneath. I used 1/2" x 6" flat stock turned up on edge to make a rectangular box. Then add cross bracing, and *diagonal* cross bracing. The diagonals will make the table very resistant to twist. The 6" depth of the box makes it very strong. The 1/2" table top isn't the strength of the table, basically it only has to be strong enough to support over the gaps in the frame. Ideally I should have plated over the bottom side of the box to make it really rigid, but that would have been near impossible to weld up. Take a look at some of the box designs on cast iron surface plates.Last edited by Andy; 01-04-2011 at 08:45 AM.
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01-04-2011, 08:48 AM #33
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01-04-2011, 09:16 AM #34
Ed Conley
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01-04-2011, 09:22 AM #35
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01-04-2011, 09:30 AM #36
I built mine based off of those plans and I did not include the cutting section. At the time I only had a Lincoln SP135 Plus- similar to the Miller 140 you'll be using.
The top is actually 2 pieces of 3'x3' x 3/8"
One thing that I did incorporate was the 2" Receiver tube so that I could mount various tools.

Ed Conley
http://www.screamingbroccoli.net/
MM252
MM211
Passport Plus w/Spool Gun
TA185
Miller 125c Plasma 120v
O/A set
SO 2020 Bender
You can call me Bacchus
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01-05-2011, 05:42 AM #37
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Namasco is a supplier in your area, they might give a student/school break on materials. I delivered a lot of steel to em in the last few years. they have a large selection of sizes and grades. They will defibately have what you are looking for, probably in stock too. Hope this helps with the project.
Bob
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01-05-2011, 08:06 AM #38
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Hi All,
I want to thank everyone who gave us suggestions, and please keep them coming!
I made a sketch with the X-clamp dimensions in it, as given to us through this forum. Hopefully this will be helpful to someone in the future, any shop should be able to make the cut for you with these.
X-Clamp_Cutout.pdf
Cheers
ASME@USF
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01-05-2011, 08:17 AM #39
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01-05-2011, 06:24 PM #40
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check alro metals on 49th st in clearwater (727) 572-4344
they have alot of drops and scrap for half the price, you might be able to save alot of money on the frame by using the scraps and put that savings into a thicker top



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