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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    25

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    Quote Originally Posted by fabricator View Post
    Did you round the corners for aethetics? We were considering it, but it'd be quite a bit of work, as we have no access to plasma cutter or a water table.

    Thanks
    ASME@USF

  2. #22

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    Quote Originally Posted by USFASME View Post
    Did you round the corners for aethetics? We were considering it, but it'd be quite a bit of work, as we have no access to plasma cutter or a water table.

    Thanks
    ASME@USF

    Water Table? You don't need no stinking water table. All you need is a torch to shape the corners. Badges are optional.
    If you don't anchor the table to the floor it's a lot more versatile in the future.
    If you put all-thread adjustment on the bottom of the legs you can level the table in spite of ground conditions, and take out wooble on the inevitable uneven floor.
    Struts with all-thread/nuts between the legs, down close to the bottom let you tune out (some) plate warp (if your legs are heavy enough) when you need a fairly flat surface.
    If you have a full frame under the table top as opposed to just legs welded on, you usually don't even need to weld the plate. Gravity does the work for you and it gives you the option of removing/replacing the top and substituting something different at times. Like plywood, grating & other things that work better in some circumstances. Plus it won't pull your plate if you are wanting a flatter work surface.
    Personally I'd go a little heavier on the legs if I could afford to. Never know what the future holds, someday one of those "other groups" sharing your garage space might throw a wild party and load your table with drunk dancing fat chics without your permission
    Salvage business' can be a great source for good used of even new materials at a considerable cost savings. Just gotta look around because inventory is constantly changing, you never know what usefull treasures you might stumble upon.

    JTMcC
    Some days you eat the bear. And some days the bear eats you.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    25

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    Quote Originally Posted by JTMcC View Post
    If you don't anchor the table to the floor it's a lot more versatile in the future. JTMcC
    There will be large castors under each wheel. The bolts are just for leveling purposes, and to support the weight. The castors will allow us to move the table.

    Good idea on not mounting it rigidly, it could let us take the top off and replace with wood.

    Great idea on the salvage yards, we'll have to look around for those.

    Table was FEAd at several thousand pounds...if they can get that many drunk chicks on it, well heck...I'd pay to see that.

    ASME@USF

  4. #24

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    Quote Originally Posted by USFASME View Post
    There will be large castors under each wheel. The bolts are just for leveling purposes, and to support the weight. The castors will allow us to move the table.

    Good idea on not mounting it rigidly, it could let us take the top off and replace with wood.

    Great idea on the salvage yards, we'll have to look around for those.

    Table was FEAd at several thousand pounds...if they can get that many drunk chicks on it, well heck...I'd pay to see that.

    ASME@USF

    Itr's your money, spend it as you wish
    But all calcs aside (and this may not apply to anything you might need to, it does for me) but when you clamp or tack a piece to a table and apply large amounts of Heave-Ho (pirate terminology) with long cheaters or a comealong, you can tweak a set of wimpy table legs.
    We work regularly with full grown experienced engineers and 72.8% of the time they fail to foresee the odd abuses heaped upon the construction aids they sometimes draw. The legs of your proposed table are going to be a limiting factor in the future.
    If the calcs are all that matter, why are you asking? Good luck.

    JTMcC
    Some days you eat the bear. And some days the bear eats you.

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    25

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    I'm asking to get real-world experienced answers, and I certainly appreciate yours. What do you recommend instead? Large tubing, or thicker?

    For loads that are no vertical, which is primarily what was tested, it may be a better idea to put in some angled support members rather than simply thicker material right?

    Thanks
    ASME@USF

  6. #26

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by USFASME View Post
    I'm asking to get real-world experienced answers, and I certainly appreciate yours. What do you recommend instead? Large tubing, or thicker?

    For loads that are no vertical, which is primarily what was tested, it may be a better idea to put in some angled support members rather than simply thicker material right?

    Thanks
    ASME@USF
    Either or, in both cases. A little heavier wall or bigger tube depending on what you can find at a good price (the scrap yard shopper sometimes uses what's on hand) remembering that you're on a tight budget. I do most of my shopping for this type project in my bone yard so we're dialed in to using what's on hand at least part of the time.
    Or angled support if it doesn't interfere with what if anything you intend to do under the table such as storing tools/welding machine. You say space is limited so I'd take max advantage of under table storage. The cross bracing might hinder access, maybe not. Run the pricing each way and your answer is clear.
    I just know that when you put a vise on a table or secure a piece by other means, and then tweak that piece with sufficient angry jerking and a-stompin fury, it's good to have sufficient safety factor built in to avoid the unanticipated stresses and strains and assorted OOP's that happen late at night.
    You could do the work on a bare shop floor really, so whatever table you end up with will be helpfull and convinient even if it's not the "perfect" setup. And they can always be modified/chopped up/bucherized later. I understand you want to get it right the first time, but most things of this sort get "improved" after being used for a while. MK IV is always mo better than MkI
    Just my opinion so really you can take it or leave it.

    JTMcC
    Some days you eat the bear. And some days the bear eats you.

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    25

    Default

    Excellent thoughts the whole way around, and space is definitely at a premium, so we'll look into making the members larger.

    I'm sure this will be modified with time, but being the engineers in training we are, we have a need to over analyze things and run through our numbers. That's why I'm glad so many member with real experience are throwing in their knowledge.

    Thanks for all the ideas.
    ASME@USF

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Anderson, Ca
    Posts
    31

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    Quote Originally Posted by USFASME View Post
    Excellent! A picture would be great, and those were the dimensions I needed. There is a larger hole at the end to slide through the locking mechanism correct, or will a 5/8+(2*1/32) hole suffice the whole way?

    We will be cutting those by hand....it's going to be interesting.

    Thanks for the post.

    ASME@USF

    The X-Clamp can be had for about 45 bucks.


    The inner shank is 5/8 and the larger part is 1-1/8.

    I would look into having your local steel supply or fabrication business plasma cut the steel. My local welding supply will be plasma cutting my 5x10 1/2 thick steel for a little over 100.00.

    Jay

  9. #29
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    Jan 2011
    Posts
    25

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    Quote Originally Posted by jbyrd View Post

    The inner shank is 5/8 and the larger part is 1-1/8.
    Jay
    Excellent, thanks for the photos! Does the 1-1/8 inch part spin off, or is that what the holes on the outside tips of the X's need to be cut out to?

    Those help a lot, thanks so much.

    ASME@USF

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Anderson, Ca
    Posts
    31

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    Quote Originally Posted by USFASME View Post
    Excellent, thanks for the photos! Does the 1-1/8 inch part spin off, or is that what the holes on the outside tips of the X's need to be cut out to?

    Those help a lot, thanks so much.

    ASME@USF
    Yes that whole piece does spin-off but you do want the bigger holes at the end of your slot to ease installing and removing the clamp.

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