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  1. #51
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Austin, TX
    Posts
    621

    Default

    On my first welding table, we used 1/4" plate for the top. I believe the mistake I made was welding to top onto the base. What happened was that the edges got pulled down by the welds. In retrospect, I would have bolted the top on instead.

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  2. #52
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Southern NH
    Posts
    233

    Default

    the best advice i have for a welding table is "dont weld the top to the frame." if you feel it absolutely must be secured then bolt it! but honestly, where do you think the top is going to go? i mean most tops are 1/4" plate and weigh at least 150 pounds-- it ain't going any where. my top weighs 400 pounds and i can barely slide it across the table-- there is absolutely no need to secure it.

    by keeping the top separate from the table, the table can be broken down into lighter pieces in case you ever need to move to a new location. the other obvious advantage is that the top doesn't warp from the welds.
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  3. #53
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    16919 Pole Rd. Brethren, MI 49619
    Posts
    4,412

    Default

    I weld the top on it can become part of the structural integrity of the table but no need to weld the crap out of it, 3 or stitches along the length of the angle, a bit on each corner and in the middle of the angles on the ends. I don't even fully weld the corners of the frame work, just where I need it.

  4. #54
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Baltimore, Maryland
    Posts
    315

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Sberry View Post
    The boom is used on occasion to drop leads and cords down on projects to keep the stuff off of the floor.
    Great Idea!
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  5. #55
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Milwaukee WI
    Posts
    57

    Default

    Awesome thread and great ideas!
    once I get my Jap truck frame welded up, i'll be building a table!

    MM
    Millermatic 210

  6. #56
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    BC Canada
    Posts
    6

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by EdZep View Post

    One problem I've noted is that the inside tubing seams will interfere with sliding of an otherwise properly sized inner tube. How do people remove those seams? Or, maybe I'd have to use round tubing, as the seams are off near an edge.
    You can purchase square tubing with a clean interior. Towing hitch shops often use it for hitch extensions. It is very expensive.

    I put a large electrical box well under the table with multiple plugs and a short tail for an extension cord. Plug boxes tend to collect grinding dust unless well underneath the bench.
    Last edited by lotechman; 09-04-2008 at 11:34 AM.

  7. #57
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    s/e michigan
    Posts
    37

    Default

    The table looks pretty practical for someone like me who doesn't do "heavy stuff".

    Quote Originally Posted by EdZep View Post
    >> does anyone have some photo of some welding tables getting ready to build one .

    Brian, here's a pic of my nearly done table from the Miller plans. My first welding project, with a new MM180. I learned too late that the edges of the 3/8 plate could droop a little, with voltage high enough to get good penetration. Glad I used scrapyard plate. I think I should have welded the top on along the inside edge of the frame, rather than the more accessible outside edge. Or, maybe I should have turned the whole thing over, rather than sitting on my butt and doing overhead welds.





    >> You put shims inside the tube to offset the seam.

    Fishy Jim, thanks. Yeah, and I guess I should have made sure all the seams were turned the same way, so shims could be applied the same everywhere needed.

  8. #58
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Delta B.C.
    Posts
    33

    Default My Table

    Here is my home table.
    It was my first project afew years back.
    It fit's in my work-mate.









    This shows the wind/flash guard.

  9. #59
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Fallbrook CA
    Posts
    20

    Default

    I have 2 small vices each mounted to a seperate 12" x 12" x 1/4" plate. You need to counterbore the bottom mounting holes in the plates so they lay flush on your welding table. They are not bolted or clamped to the table they just slide around to wherever you need them. mighty handy for holding those small and awkward pieces when you are tigging them.
    Harold
    Harold
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  10. #60
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    112

    Default Welding Table Accessories

    I have 2 tables in my own shop and one where I spend 8 to 10 hrs each day day job and I made the frame out of square tubing leaving the longer ones open on the ends "not mitered '' or boxed in then I put a smaller tube in each one of them I slide them out as I need to hang lead stinger C CLAMPS OR for table extensions my tool boxes are opossite table so when I trun around I can get hood grinding shield from hooks at top of tool box about 6 foot high 1 table is slanted for prints sketches or writing the other is flat also tables have a shelf for small parts or drops Hope it helps

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