Metal blade for circular saw

[monte55]

Notice how emergency rooms never seem to run out of business. Some of the previous posts explain why.

[tasslehawf]

The idea of a metal cutting skilsaw has always scared the bejesus out of me. I could see it's use for cutting tube or bar in the field. I have had some close calls with wood tools and cutting sheet with one of those things I dread if it fed back.

I typically don't need to cut sheet. If I needed something cut I could get it precut. I cut mostly tube and bar so I've been using a Porter Cable 14" dry cut saw for the past 3 years. This is a great metal saw. It's very accurate, but cuts get sloppier when the blades get dull. Typically the blades last me for 1-2 major projects. Miter cuts wear them out faster. I've had most of the blades resharpened once or twice; except for the ones with missing teeth. I typically find myself needing one when I don't have time to get an old one resharpened, so I've bought six replacement blades. It's heatbreaking to watch how fast a $100+ blade gets dull.

My dream saw is a KAMA mitering band saw. At $3000+ it's steep but replacement blades are cheap and it's a very accurate saw. Even with the PC saw ($600) plus 6 blades ($600+) it's still a far cry from $3k. Sigh.

[SundownIII]

Tasselhawf,

Believe me, safety is always of the utmost concern to me.

For the hobby metalworker (non-production) an inexpensive skil (circular saw) from Lowes/HD for around $60 and a Bullet 7 1/4" Metal cutting carbide blade, provides a means of cutting mild steel plate up to about 1/4". A Milwaukee 8" Metal Cutting circular saw with carbide blade (prefer Morse Metal Devil) is better but much more expensive. A straight edge guide should be used with either.

Both saws are much safer than a table saw. Neither saw has the power or inertia of a table saw. If you bind the blade in the cut, the saw will stall, rather than the blade exploding as I have seen with the abrasive blades. Both of these saws should be used with adequate protection (face shield, heavy gloves, etc) since they do throw a fair amount of shavings.

I have used both to cut a fair amount of sheet goods. For anything heavier I will use the plasma, or take the material over a buddies shop and have it sheared or cut on the CNC plasma. For really intricate cuts we'll use the water jet (awesome machine).

I also own and use the Porter Cable 1410 saw. I have had good luck with the Freud 14" metal cutting carbide blades. They seem to last a good while and can generally be found on e-bay for around $50 plus shipping. You may want to try one. I've also used the Morse Metal Devil 14" blades (around $130 ea) and I don't see a lot of difference in how they wear or cut. I'm pretty particular about what I cut with the PC. For rebar and junk material, I'll drag out the DeWalt abrasive chop saw.

[migman69]

this seems like a good saw.
made by milwaukee electric.

powerful 4.8 max HP motor, 15 amp motor (1,500 rpm)

Tool-free fence and vise system

Heavy-duty cast base

Horizontal D-handle for optimum comfort

Largest cutting capacity in class

Cuts fast with virtually no sparks or burrs

SPECIFICATIONS
Voltage

120 AC/DC
Amps

15.0
Wheel Size

14 in.
Max. HP

4.8
Spindle

1 in.
No Load Speed

1,500 RPM
Spindle Lock

Yes
Bevel Capacity

45°
Capacity in O.D. Pipe

5-3/8 in.
Capacity in Bar Stock

---
Capacity in Square Stock

5 in.
Maximum Opening

8 in.
Length

16-1/2 in.
Tool Weight

50.0 lbs.
Shipping Weight

59.0 lbs.

INCLUDES

Circular Saw Blade 14 in. 72 Tooth Dry Cut Carbide Tipped

Hex Key

The 6190-20 utilizes dry (a.k.a. "cold") cut technology which will cut on average three times faster than an abrasive machine and costs 1-1/2 times less to operate. The saw produces little to no sparks when cutting and leaves a virtually burr-free finish. The motor is a 15 amp, 4.8 max H.P. The base is a heavy-duty cast aluminum reinforced with a 1/4 in. steel plate. The vise and back fence is tool free. The horizontal D-handle provides optimum comfort whether the tool is on the ground or sitting on a bench.

[tnjind]

migman,
I am sorry but you are wrong, cold cut means just that, cold. period. I worked in the industry of sawing equipment, Kaltenbach cold saws and Beringer bandsaws.
A cold saw, and I own a coldsaw, means the blade is liquid cooled. A cold saw produces a very accurate cut with minimal bur.
I would not trade my saw for anything, it is a copy of a Scotchman but it cuts straight and true even on miters.
I am not bashing the guy that cuts sheet steel on the tablesaw, i have seen people that should have known better throw wood pieces because the fence was not true.Their fault for not checking the fence.
A table saw is only a tool to be used with some common sence .

[sam_porter]

I own a Millwaukee 8" metal saw, it is one of my favorite tools. I have cut everything from metal roofing, to 1/2'' plate, to diamond plate alum., to 1-1/2" ram stock. The metal is cool to the touch, with little or no burring. The saw collects most of the shavings in the blade cover, but you should still use eye protection. Of course, the blade didn't last too long after I cut the ram stock 3 or 4 times, that's ok with me. The longer you own one, the better it works because you know when to slow down or speed up or change the blade depth, and don't cut any type of spring steel unless it's worth the $50 blade. I would reccomend this saw to anyone.

[migman69]

migman,
I am sorry but you are wrong, cold cut means just that, cold. period. I worked in the industry of sawing equipment, Kaltenbach cold saws and Beringer bandsaws.
A cold saw, and I own a coldsaw, means the blade is liquid cooled. A cold saw produces a very accurate cut with minimal bur.
I would not trade my saw for anything, it is a copy of a Scotchman but it cuts straight and true even on miters.
I am not bashing the guy that cuts sheet steel on the tablesaw, i have seen people that should have known better throw wood pieces because the fence was not true.Their fault for not checking the fence.
A table saw is only a tool to be used with some common sence .

how are you telling me im wrong i said it seemed like a good saw and then you go one to say you have one and wouldnt trade it for nothing so how am i wrong by saying its a good saw

[tnjind]

Migman,
I apologize, I didn't mean you were wrong about the saw. It probably is a good one, for what it is.
I meant that these days industrial technology is samewhat copied and sold to comsumers.
The saw I have is all cast iron, swivels, takes a 315 millimeter blade and the cut is coolant cooled.
The saw you spec'd out is a cross between an abrasive saw and a true cold saw. That being said I am sure that saw will do well, but it can't be rigid enough for repeatable accurate cuts.

The portability will be an advantage big time.

[migman69]

Migman,
I apologize, I didn't mean you were wrong about the saw. It probably is a good one, for what it is.
I meant that these days industrial technology is samewhat copied and sold to comsumers.
The saw I have is all cast iron, swivels, takes a 315 millimeter blade and the cut is coolant cooled.
The saw you spec'd out is a cross between an abrasive saw and a true cold saw. That being said I am sure that saw will do well, but it can't be rigid enough for repeatable accurate cuts.

The portability will be an advantage big time.

i appreciate the apology and yes im sure the saw i mentioned probably doesnt have the gusto in the industrial world but for a do it yourselfer at the home shop or anyone needing to cut alot of tubing it would be a great asset i feel since it does not throw a shower of sparks like a standerd chop saw