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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Northern California
    Posts
    190

    Default 10" Table saw for metal.

    I cut metal all of the time on my 10" Delta Contractor's Table saw. I use blades from my 14" chopsaw that have worn doiwn to about ten". I use some of mine and also a supply that I get from a friend who has a machine shop. My table saw has a 1 hp Dayton motor with a belt drive at 3,450 rpm.

    It will cut most any thickness of metal up to 1/2". I use it mostly for long cuts in 1/8" sheet. Of course, you need a face mask, gloves and long-sleeve shirt to be safe.

    I blow the saw off now and then to keep it clean. It willl still cut wood nicely whenever I want.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Indiana
    Posts
    541

    Default

    Man I have got to tell ya, that just scares me.
    I use the heck out of my table saw, for wood. Sometimes thin aluminum.
    I am as "resouceful" as can be but , that I have not even considered.
    Just sounds too uncontrollable. But what the heck I may try that someday.
    Tim Beeker,
    T-N-J Industries
    (my side bussiness)

    Miller Synchrowave 350LX with tigrunner
    Esab 450i with wire feeder
    HH135 mig
    Thermal Dynamics cutmaster 51 plasma cutter
    Miller aircrafter 330 - sold
    Marathon 315mm coldsaw
    vertical and horizontal band saws
    table saw
    Dewalt cut off saw
    Sand blast cabinet
    lots of hand grinders
    Harris torch
    beer fridge

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Deltaville, VA
    Posts
    2,239

    Default

    Syncroman,

    What you're advocating is truly UNSAFE. You may not have had any problems up to this point, but believe me, it is an accident waiting to happen. It's not a matter of whether an accident will happen, it's a matter of when. I don't know if you've ever seen an abrasive blade "blow up" when put into a bind. I can assure you it's not pretty. I already carry enough shrapnel from booby traps in SE Asia. I don't need any more from my table saw.

    I, like you, use a table saw quite frequently (Powermatic 2000, 3HP), but I would never even consider trying to cut 1/8" steel on it.

    I even get upset when I see posters bragging about using a wood chop saw with an abrasive blade to cut steel. That's not as bad as a table saw but it's still using a tool for a purpose it was never intended. A wood chop saw just does not have the proper clamping ability to properly secure the material.

    I do use a sliding miter saw for cutting aluminum but I also use a carbide blade to accomplish the task and I take pains to clamp my material to the saw. Also I do use my Delta band saw for cutting aluminum, especially tube.

    For cutting steel, you're better served with something like Milwaukee's metal cutting saw (8" Carbide blade). A less expensive alternative is a cheap skil saw (like $50-60 at Lowes/HD) and a 7 1/4" Bullet carbide blade. Will do a satisfactory job but throws a lot of steel slivers (recommend full face shield). Either of these alternatives is a lot safer than a table saw.

    Hope this maybe keeps someone from getting badly hurt.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    4

    Default

    Just for viewing pleasure: (about 3 min. long)

    http://youtube.com/watch?v=blQAe51F6oM

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    gate city virgina
    Posts
    213

    Default

    sound almost to good to be true i think it may work but i dont know how well

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Ocean City, Maryland
    Posts
    951

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by KBar View Post
    Thats ok with a small grinder but in the small tool section, I use mostly air tools and it was too far to drag an air hose, besides, an air hose gets dangerous when you cut it.

    As far as metal blades with teeth, personally I would go with a metal cutting saw rather than a wood saw if you are going to use it on a regular basis. They make them for wood and they make them for metal for a reason.
    I use air tools alot too but use electric 4 1/2 " grinders and working on the building electric was easy. And I agree with the right saw for the right job. I think I'll end up buying a Millwaukee metal cutting saw.
    Scott
    HMW [Heavy Metal welding]

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Ocean City, Maryland
    Posts
    951

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by migman69 View Post
    you want to cut metal this best might work with the proper abrashive wheel


    Oh thats cute........ already have one of those but hard to follow a line with it...ha ha ha
    Works great on something you dont care about the exact cut, But really works well on concrete
    Scott
    HMW [Heavy Metal welding]

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Killingworth,Ct.
    Posts
    372

    Default syn

    Quote Originally Posted by Synchroman View Post
    I cut metal all of the time on my 10" Delta Contractor's Table saw. I use blades from my 14" chopsaw that have worn doiwn to about ten". I use some of mine and also a supply that I get from a friend who has a machine shop. My table saw has a 1 hp Dayton motor with a belt drive at 3,450 rpm.

    It will cut most any thickness of metal up to 1/2". I use it mostly for long cuts in 1/8" sheet. Of course, you need a face mask, gloves and long-sleeve shirt to be safe.

    I blow the saw off now and then to keep it clean. It willl still cut wood nicely whenever I want.
    God must be on your side,,how bout a suit of body armor,when one of those worn out blades let go,and sorry,they will!!!!!!!!Have to agree,accident waitng to Happen!!!!!!!!!!!!

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Lancaster, Pa
    Posts
    431

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SundownIII View Post
    Syncroman,

    What you're advocating is truly UNSAFE. You may not have had any problems up to this point, but believe me, it is an accident waiting to happen. It's not a matter of whether an accident will happen, it's a matter of when. I don't know if you've ever seen an abrasive blade "blow up" when put into a bind. I can assure you it's not pretty.
    I agree with you Sundown

    Even with my Dewalt Metal saw, I clamp the metal and it still binds up, stuff flys, wheels break but there is a nice shield in place so I was protected because it was made for these kind of things. When I used the abrasive blade in a circular saw that time, that was bad enough but that was only tin sheets.
    Ken

    What else is there besides welding and riding. Besides that

    Miller Thunderbolt XL 300/200 AC/DC
    Hobart Handler 187
    Dewalt Chop Saw
    4" Air Grinder
    Die Grinder
    Rigid Drill Press
    Kellogg 10hp Air Compressor


    2009 FXDC

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    gate city virgina
    Posts
    213

    Default

    i am much more experienced as a wood worker than a metal worker and i can say a wood saw is just that a wood saw i dont use my skil saw to cut anything but wood unless its non ferrous metal or im using a diamond blade to cut tile or formica. When i have to cut metal i use my cut off tool, or my 7 1/2inch grinder, or my sawzall with a carbide blade. but i have plans for getting a metal saw

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