I cut metal all of the time on my 10" Delta Contractor's Table saw. I use blades from my 14" chopsaw that have worn doiwn to about ten". I use some of mine and also a supply that I get from a friend who has a machine shop. My table saw has a 1 hp Dayton motor with a belt drive at 3,450 rpm.
It will cut most any thickness of metal up to 1/2". I use it mostly for long cuts in 1/8" sheet. Of course, you need a face mask, gloves and long-sleeve shirt to be safe.
I blow the saw off now and then to keep it clean. It willl still cut wood nicely whenever I want.
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Thread: Metal blade for circular saw
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12-27-2007, 03:45 PM #11
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10" Table saw for metal.
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12-27-2007, 06:45 PM #12
Man I have got to tell ya, that just scares me.
I use the heck out of my table saw, for wood. Sometimes thin aluminum.
I am as "resouceful" as can be but , that I have not even considered.
Just sounds too uncontrollable. But what the heck I may try that someday.Tim Beeker,
T-N-J Industries
(my side bussiness)
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12-27-2007, 11:55 PM #13
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Syncroman,
What you're advocating is truly UNSAFE. You may not have had any problems up to this point, but believe me, it is an accident waiting to happen. It's not a matter of whether an accident will happen, it's a matter of when. I don't know if you've ever seen an abrasive blade "blow up" when put into a bind. I can assure you it's not pretty. I already carry enough shrapnel from booby traps in SE Asia. I don't need any more from my table saw.
I, like you, use a table saw quite frequently (Powermatic 2000, 3HP), but I would never even consider trying to cut 1/8" steel on it.
I even get upset when I see posters bragging about using a wood chop saw with an abrasive blade to cut steel. That's not as bad as a table saw but it's still using a tool for a purpose it was never intended. A wood chop saw just does not have the proper clamping ability to properly secure the material.
I do use a sliding miter saw for cutting aluminum but I also use a carbide blade to accomplish the task and I take pains to clamp my material to the saw. Also I do use my Delta band saw for cutting aluminum, especially tube.
For cutting steel, you're better served with something like Milwaukee's metal cutting saw (8" Carbide blade). A less expensive alternative is a cheap skil saw (like $50-60 at Lowes/HD) and a 7 1/4" Bullet carbide blade. Will do a satisfactory job but throws a lot of steel slivers (recommend full face shield). Either of these alternatives is a lot safer than a table saw.
Hope this maybe keeps someone from getting badly hurt.
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12-28-2007, 08:04 AM #14
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Just for viewing pleasure: (about 3 min. long)
http://youtube.com/watch?v=blQAe51F6oM
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12-28-2007, 08:17 AM #15
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sound almost to good to be true i think it may work but i dont know how well
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12-28-2007, 09:37 AM #16
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12-28-2007, 09:38 AM #17
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12-28-2007, 10:24 AM #18
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12-28-2007, 01:35 PM #19
I agree with you Sundown
Even with my Dewalt Metal saw, I clamp the metal and it still binds up, stuff flys, wheels break but there is a nice shield in place so I was protected because it was made for these kind of things. When I used the abrasive blade in a circular saw that time, that was bad enough but that was only tin sheets.Ken
What else is there besides welding and riding. Besides that
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12-29-2007, 12:01 AM #20
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i am much more experienced as a wood worker than a metal worker and i can say a wood saw is just that a wood saw i dont use my skil saw to cut anything but wood unless its non ferrous metal or im using a diamond blade to cut tile or formica. When i have to cut metal i use my cut off tool, or my 7 1/2inch grinder, or my sawzall with a carbide blade. but i have plans for getting a metal saw


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already have one of those but hard to follow a line with it...ha ha ha








