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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Baldwin, NY
    Posts
    275

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    Quote Originally Posted by jdustu View Post
    Yup. I've got a heavy duty aluminum ds on it now.
    Never had luck with aluminum d/s's behind LS1's, I went through 2, and inland empire, and the stock one, switched out to a custom steel, worked well. Been through 3 rear ends too, a stock 10 bolt, and two moser 12 bolts.

    Is your car stock, or modded?
    Voigt Precision Welding, Inc.

    Miller Dynasty 200 DX, Miller Syncrowave 250, MillerMatic 252, Hypertherm Powermax 45, Auto Arc Trailpower 8000,272+187 lb Peter Wright anvil, 120 lb Fisher-norris, and more! Buffalo drill press, Grizzly Horiz. Bandsaw, Edwards shear, Barth Shear, bantam mechanical ironworker, Hopkins fly press, Doall Bandsaw, brown and sharpe surface grinder.

    2007 Silverado 2500HD (tow vehicle)
    2000 Camaro SS (Race car)

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Mt. Clemens, Michigan
    Posts
    277

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    Quote Originally Posted by Badd00SS View Post
    Never had luck with aluminum d/s's behind LS1's, I went through 2, and inland empire, and the stock one, switched out to a custom steel, worked well. Been through 3 rear ends too, a stock 10 bolt, and two moser 12 bolts.

    Is your car stock, or modded?
    It's modded, but the engine is stock. I've got a moser 9" in back, and I haven't been able to get the stupid thing dialed in. Fully adjustable suspension, and I just can't get rid of wheel hop. I think I'm gonna put a 10 bolt back under the car in the spring and sell it. I've got other things to worry about right now. I was hoping for 11s on a stock internal motor, and I got a 12.2 last year bumpin' off the limiter 3 times into seond and twice into third, so I think its there. But that was on the 10 bolt with 3.73 gears. I think the 9", even with 3.90 gears, is slower.

    Here's a link to a "for sale" thread I had in the summer when I half heartedly tried to sell it, it's pretty much got the entire rundown and some pics:
    http://www.motownmuscle.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=51132

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    near rochester NY
    Posts
    9,881

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    jdustu, Thanks! I've actually posted on here before, do the posts from the motorsports board and this board not add in together?


    the 2 are still separate for now (reason for having to register twice.) they are planing on connecting the 2.

    There's a lot of experience on these forums, and that one thing I'm lacking!

    Yep, lots of great guy's willing to give there time and experience. this place keeps ya learning.
    thanks for the help
    ......or..........
    hope i helped

    feel free to shoot me an e-mail direct i have time to chat. james@newyorkmetalart.com
    summer is here, plant a tree. if you don't have space or time to plant one sponsor some one else to plant one for you. a tree is an investment in our planet, help it out.
    JAMES

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Baldwin, NY
    Posts
    275

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    Quote Originally Posted by jdustu View Post
    It's modded, but the engine is stock. I've got a moser 9" in back, and I haven't been able to get the stupid thing dialed in. Fully adjustable suspension, and I just can't get rid of wheel hop. I think I'm gonna put a 10 bolt back under the car in the spring and sell it. I've got other things to worry about right now. I was hoping for 11s on a stock internal motor, and I got a 12.2 last year bumpin' off the limiter 3 times into seond and twice into third, so I think its there. But that was on the 10 bolt with 3.73 gears. I think the 9", even with 3.90 gears, is slower.

    Here's a link to a "for sale" thread I had in the summer when I half heartedly tried to sell it, it's pretty much got the entire rundown and some pics:
    http://www.motownmuscle.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=51132
    The 9 inch is a far superior rear, I went 12 bolt due to not having exciter rings on 9 inch's when I needed a rear. 11's on stock internals is not that hard. What tires were you running? I found that et-street slicks, not the radials grab the best, but I have a 6 spd. What converter are you running?

    And what Is your rear suspension setup? I happen to build custom f-body suspensions... Maybe I could give you some tips to get her dialed in... would hate to see you sell her.

    edit: Just noticed that you have a tci 4200... never been fond of tci's on ls1's. Another thing is nitto's are ok, step up to a true drag radial or slick should help A friend of mine cut a 1.49 on a stock internal ls1 on mt et streets., and a good set of headers/y pipe (arh or qtp's)

    Sweet car though...
    Last edited by Badd00SS; 12-24-2007 at 09:19 AM.
    Voigt Precision Welding, Inc.

    Miller Dynasty 200 DX, Miller Syncrowave 250, MillerMatic 252, Hypertherm Powermax 45, Auto Arc Trailpower 8000,272+187 lb Peter Wright anvil, 120 lb Fisher-norris, and more! Buffalo drill press, Grizzly Horiz. Bandsaw, Edwards shear, Barth Shear, bantam mechanical ironworker, Hopkins fly press, Doall Bandsaw, brown and sharpe surface grinder.

    2007 Silverado 2500HD (tow vehicle)
    2000 Camaro SS (Race car)

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Mt. Clemens, Michigan
    Posts
    277

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Badd00SS View Post
    The 9 inch is a far superior rear, I went 12 bolt due to not having exciter rings on 9 inch's when I needed a rear. 11's on stock internals is not that hard. What tires were you running? I found that et-street slicks, not the radials grab the best, but I have a 6 spd. What converter are you running?

    And what Is your rear suspension setup? I happen to build custom f-body suspensions... Maybe I could give you some tips to get her dialed in... would hate to see you sell her.

    edit: Just noticed that you have a tci 4200... never been fond of tci's on ls1's. Another thing is nitto's are ok, step up to a true drag radial or slick should help A friend of mine cut a 1.49 on a stock internal ls1 on mt et streets., and a good set of headers/y pipe (arh or qtp's)

    Sweet car though...
    yeah, 11's on stock internals isn't too hard, but I don't want to spend the money on the tb and intake. The mid length headers were needed because up until recently the car was lowered two inches. And I was hoping to do it on drag radials. I think I would be there with the ten bolt, and I'd be close with the 9". I really like the convertor, but I don't have any experience with anything else, so maybe ignorance is bliss. I drove it a ton last summer, I even took it on the power tour and got 21 mpg. This started as a fun side driver while I worked on the buick, but everytime I turn around I'm messing with the camaro.

    I cut a 1.64 on the nitto drs with the ten bolt. I would pry try the et streets if i keep the car. I've got other stuff to work on though, and this thing has just been taking up too much time and space.

    The moser never fit right. I've got a body mounted spohn t/a, and I ended up shortening it because the moser sits too far foward. I have double adjustable lcas, and I had to cut and reweld them shorter as well. I have an adjustable lower panhard, lca relocation brackets, qa1 12 way adjustable shocks, and now i have strano springs. I've jerked around with it all summer, and everytime I thought I had it, I didn't. If you've got any suggestions, let me know. If I try to get the 9" to work again this spring, I'll get back with you too, I appreciate it.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Mt. Clemens, Michigan
    Posts
    277

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    Quote Originally Posted by 6010 View Post
    That wine rack looks nice. She should put you a new welder under the tree for that
    I got this under the tree


  7. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Mt. Clemens, Michigan
    Posts
    277

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    I actually got a lot of interest in the keychains/dogtags I made on a local car club site(www.motownmuscle.com)

    I've made up a few so far:




    The old english "D" is still my favorite

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Austin, TX
    Posts
    621

    Default

    I made this table base for my wife. It goes under an art-deco style concrete top I made a few years ago.





    The original table was on top of those crazy looking legs. My wife bought them, but they made the table too tall (32" overall height). I made a new base for Christmas dinner that made the table 30" overall plus the ability to get chairs/legs under the table comfortably.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Baldwin, NY
    Posts
    275

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jdustu View Post
    yeah, 11's on stock internals isn't too hard, but I don't want to spend the money on the tb and intake. The mid length headers were needed because up until recently the car was lowered two inches. And I was hoping to do it on drag radials. I think I would be there with the ten bolt, and I'd be close with the 9". I really like the convertor, but I don't have any experience with anything else, so maybe ignorance is bliss. I drove it a ton last summer, I even took it on the power tour and got 21 mpg. This started as a fun side driver while I worked on the buick, but everytime I turn around I'm messing with the camaro.

    I cut a 1.64 on the nitto drs with the ten bolt. I would pry try the et streets if i keep the car. I've got other stuff to work on though, and this thing has just been taking up too much time and space.

    The moser never fit right. I've got a body mounted spohn t/a, and I ended up shortening it because the moser sits too far foward. I have double adjustable lcas, and I had to cut and reweld them shorter as well. I have an adjustable lower panhard, lca relocation brackets, qa1 12 way adjustable shocks, and now i have strano springs. I've jerked around with it all summer, and everytime I thought I had it, I didn't. If you've got any suggestions, let me know. If I try to get the 9" to work again this spring, I'll get back with you too, I appreciate it.
    What is your pinion angle set at? And your QA1's, I assume those are up front, stock rears?

    Still have a front sway bar?

    I have found most auto LS1's to work best with a ~ -1 pinion degree.
    Disconnect, or remove front sway bar (street car usually just disconnect)
    And for the shocks up front... I have had the most luck with setting them on the loosest setting, make a pass, adjust tight enough for weight transfer to still occur, without bouncing or wheel jerking. Totally dependednt on the car. I know people who run it on 2 with great results, and people who run on 8 with great results.... it all depends on how she reacts.

    How does she leave, hard/violent (wheels up) or soft n steady?
    Voigt Precision Welding, Inc.

    Miller Dynasty 200 DX, Miller Syncrowave 250, MillerMatic 252, Hypertherm Powermax 45, Auto Arc Trailpower 8000,272+187 lb Peter Wright anvil, 120 lb Fisher-norris, and more! Buffalo drill press, Grizzly Horiz. Bandsaw, Edwards shear, Barth Shear, bantam mechanical ironworker, Hopkins fly press, Doall Bandsaw, brown and sharpe surface grinder.

    2007 Silverado 2500HD (tow vehicle)
    2000 Camaro SS (Race car)

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Mt. Clemens, Michigan
    Posts
    277

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Badd00SS View Post
    What is your pinion angle set at? And your QA1's, I assume those are up front, stock rears?

    Still have a front sway bar?

    I have found most auto LS1's to work best with a ~ -1 pinion degree.
    Disconnect, or remove front sway bar (street car usually just disconnect)
    And for the shocks up front... I have had the most luck with setting them on the loosest setting, make a pass, adjust tight enough for weight transfer to still occur, without bouncing or wheel jerking. Totally dependednt on the car. I know people who run it on 2 with great results, and people who run on 8 with great results.... it all depends on how she reacts.

    How does she leave, hard/violent (wheels up) or soft n steady?
    I've tried pinion angles in increments from -2 to +2. I haven't had a front swaybar on the car since I bought it. I used to have kyb agx 8 way adj. shocks all the way around, but now I have the QA1's on the rear, the agxs on the front. I hop on the street when I take off from a stop or a roll. At the track, the one time I went this summer, I'd heat the snot out of the tires and try to leave around 1800-2000 and I would just bounce.

    One local shop suggested I go back to stock springs, because the Strano's are progressive. But I have hooked on the street with the Strano springs before. I put the stock ones in anyways, but still hopped. The moser has never fit right, it still makes more than normal clunking noises(not the gears, the suspension) when changing directions, and I really think that somehow it has screwed up the geometry. When I first installed it, the front of the torque arm was about 3" farther ahead then when the 10 bolt was in. I couldn't even center the wheels in the wheelwell with adjustable lcas, I had to shorten them. I've spent the entire summer messing with it. There have been times where it seems like I've got it, then the next time I go out it's completely jacked up again. There was one time when I adjusted the LCAs to get the rear even, took it for a drive, came back and the rear had moved but the lcas were still locked down. That makes no sense to me

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