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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    5

    Default Millermatic 130XP wire feed

    I have this machine since new. I has worked fine till yesterday. Started welding, but it stopped after 3 sec. I pulled the cover off. When I pull the trigger the enclosed relay works. The big contacts work. The motor doesn't turn. I pulled the motor and checked it with 24V. It worked fine. I removed all the connectiongs to the circuit board and replaced them to mack sure they are tight. Fan works also

    I have a feeling it has a problem on the circuit board, but that is why I am posting here.

    Where does one find a parts break-down for this unit? Is there a part list for the circuit board?

    I ramble on, so will wait for help.

    Bob
    Last edited by strodder; 09-12-2010 at 08:21 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Ceres, California
    Posts
    358

    Default

    First check the fuse on the pc board. The motor speed control system is just weld voltage fed through a rheostat and the fuse. The large relay is the weld contactor. the smaller relay in the plastic box controls the the motor run and brake.
    If the fuse has blown check your mig gun for a damaged liner or contact tip.
    Put in a fuse of the same size and type. Try running the drive motor with the pressure arm released. see if the fuse holds. Or get a AMP meter and measure the motor current. first with wire then pushing wire. The current should be less than the fuse rating (5amp slow blow). Do not use a larger size fuse. Fire hazard.
    I have seen a bad motor spike to 9 amps at motor start then drop down. This will shorten the fuse life. The amps should not spike up over 5 amps at motor start while driving wire. Can only be see by a fast acting amp meter. Most DVMs are to slow.
    Glenn 300 amp stick
    Millermatic 35
    L-tec plasma

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    5

    Default

    Thanks for the reply. I have taken the drive wheel of the shaft so there is no drag. I checked the continuity of the fuse. Checked OK. Checked the voltage at the wires to the motor. Nothing there when I pull the trigger.
    I'm off to bed now, but will check back tomorrow afternoon. Again, thanks for the help

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    5

    Default

    Bump for help

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Posts
    7,742

    Default

    Hit the trigger and check from motor wire #34 to your "POS" terminal (where the jumpers are) This thing runs off of output power.

    Also I suppose it might be best to see if you indeed have output power, trigger depressed.

    Also give CR1 a twack, in case you've got a frozen contact and don't see it.

    I don't think its your drive motor as that board fuse would have lit up.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    5

    Default

    Thanks, will check tomorrow

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Ceres, California
    Posts
    358

    Default

    I agree with cruzer. check both of the relays. Make sure you have weld voltage and the larger relay is making contact when you pull the trigger.
    Then look real hard at cr1, the relay in the plastic box. make sure it is not stuck or worn out. or a wire came loose from it. Check the speed control rheostat, if it is open the motor will not run.
    Glenn 300 amp stick
    Millermatic 35
    L-tec plasma

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Appleton, WI
    Posts
    383

    Default

    Does the weld contactor stay in when you keep the trigger pulled or does it drop out on its own? If it stays in then you should check the rheostat (you already checked the fuse and motor). If it's dropping out then make sure you are not in between ranges on the heat selectror switch.
    Kevin Schuh
    Service Technician
    Miller Electric Mfg. Co.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    5

    Default

    First off, I thank everyone for there help. I went back and redid all the connections, tapped on stuff etc. Still no go. I had checked the fuse for conductivity, and it checked OK. Showed no sign of being bad. Well I got some new fuses today. Well you guessed it, when I replaced the fuse everything worked fine. Sorry to put everyone thu all this, but may help someone in the future.

    Many thanks from a 76 year old Street Rodder

    PS I got this Welder in 1999 for $599 at the Miller trailer at the Street Rod Nats in Louisville Ky.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Appleton, WI
    Posts
    383

    Default

    Glad to hear you are up and running.
    Kevin Schuh
    Service Technician
    Miller Electric Mfg. Co.

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