Friday mourning a semi showed up at my land. it had 49000lbs of pipe on it. i have over 10,000' of fence to build. so heres my issue i have 2'' od 1/4 thick to saddle and weld to 2-1/2'' sch.40. i have a plasma and a torch.but im considiring a 2-7/8'' hole saw in a gig on my drill press to saddle the 2''.... is it worth it to use the drill press? or will i just get better and better at saddling?
also not pertaning to the above topic
have yall ever welded rebar togother instead of tying it?
does any one know the aws spec?
and since the carbon content so high do i need in to use lo/hi?
thanks for your comments...
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Thread: Advice needed
08-14-2010, 01:05 AM #1
Advice neededTrailblazer 275DC
new set victor torches
ingersolrand 185 compressor
1 big f550w 8 4ft toolboxes full of tools
o and the rest is too much to list lol
im very blessed to have all of it paid for
08-14-2010, 06:13 AM #2Senior Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2010
- Bronson, Fl
A notcher may be faster, and more accurate, but the notcher replacement hole saw costs may become an issue. You have several notchers available, starting at Harbor freight for about 60 bucks and going to the beast for about 600. A good notcher is a good tool to add if you do not have one already, especially if you have a lot of straight notches to do. Just a thought...
08-14-2010, 06:56 AM #3Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2007
- south alabama
i use a horizontal band saw. angle the vise at about 35* and cut about 5/8''off roll 180* and cut again. you might needto adjust yuor depth of cut but you can get a good fit. agood notcher is probably the best . rod
08-14-2010, 07:38 AM #4
was gonna say, i just use a chop saw to cut saddles....... set the fence to 35 and cut a little off from center, then flip er over and repeat..... it aint gonna be exact, but it'll be close enoughwelder_one
nothing fancy, just a few hot glue guns for metal
08-14-2010, 08:18 AM #5Senior Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2006
First thing it sounds like your pipe is drill stem, not a bad thing if it's new, potentially a very bad thing if it's used.
I have a Vogel notcher and I imagine for about three grand you can buy a vogel with a custom die for your work. The down side is you would probably have to spend another five to ten grand for the punch press to make it work because of the wall thickness. I know. I've tried.
If the material is used you made a big mistake. If it's new then you can use a plasma and a Sur-Cut. Sur-Cut makes a tool for doing two and three eights to two and seven eighths, I have one. If it's used you're going to either use a torch or spend a ton on plasma consumables.
Drill stem can be high carbon steel. This means bandsaw and cold saw blades are not going to like it for squat.
Here's the bad thing about drill stem. First and foremost is you don't know where it's been. In Dallas if you show up with a load of drill stem cut offs at the scrap yard then chances are most likely they're going to geiger counter it. If it clicks you just went from getting a little money to paying out a ton because they have to confiscate the material and you have to pay for the handling, thousands of dollars per ton.
If it's clean radiation wise you still don't know what's leached into the metal and will continue to leach out from now on. You might be exposing you and yours to cancer causing stuff we've never heard of, yet.
If it's clean of all that then you have the reality of dealing with junk, literally trying to make a silk purse out of sow's ear. Right now drill stem that's not porous has a home in the oil field. If it's porous it's sold for fencing etc because it's not good for much else. Porous means rust and rot.
Back in the day I've waded through piece after piece of drill stem weeding out the bad from the not so bad. Then I would take the bad and cut it for posts putting the really bad into the concrete. Invariably a piece that looked good would be paper thin right where it welded to a post. That meant taking out that section minium, sometimes the whole length. The only thing worse than that is having the client find the holes and then you get to go back and change out the section, along with all the other sections the client found after checking everything at least twice.
Then there's the magnetism thing. The material gets heavily magnetized sometimes. You have a bugger bear time trying to get a puddle to start because the arc and puddle want to stay on one piece and refuses to go to the other. Once you get past that you can have the whole weld break just about the time you've got it all sewed up. HAZ on steriods going to a party. I was called over to help a pipeliner working on an H fixture on his place that couldn't get a joint to hold because it would chrystalize and fall apart just about the time he'd get it completed. We finally got it welded up but neither one of us had any confidence in it holding over time.
In the late eighties we could get good used, sometimes even new, drill stem cheap. That was because the oil patch was in deep doo and they would sell off inventory just to survive. Then it got good for the oil patch again and man did the junk flow. It was a nightmare because the price for us was the same but the material totally sucked. When the stuff started coming out about how hazardous the material could be it was a relief to not to have to deal with it.
If you're dealing with used drill pipe and you're going to use it plan on using your cutting torch and sur-cuts. I hope your welding machine has an a/c option. That's the best way to get around the magnetism thing that I've found, change over the machine and change your rod until you're through it. Usually there'll be just enough of it to keep you pulling your hair out.
One of the things most people don't realize about the drill stem is the weight, it's very heavy. It comes in nominal thirty two foot lengths, one man can handle it, one end at a time. Running it through a stationary saw is at least a two man job and can take forever plus a week. I guess a quick saw like the Stihl might work. But that would be tough too, get heavy, keep changing blades, etc and so on.
08-14-2010, 08:24 AM #6Senior Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2006
I didn't mention the concrete and plastic liners in some used drill stem. With the concrete filled pipe the best way to saddle cut I've found is to cut it with a saw to length. Then you hammer out the concrete deep enough to make your cut. If you don't you've never had any fun until you've made a cut with a torch, plasma or oxy/gas, where all it could do is blow back and sideways, along with concrete popping, bad word generator if there ever was one.
Some of the pipe has a plastic liner. If you want to know what that's like pick up a piece of pvc and try to cut it with your torch. Fumes? Those aren't fumes, when it's in pipe there are fumes.