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  1. #1

    Default Metal prep for painting

    I've always just been happy to finish my projects and never really cared if they got painted before so dont have much experience with the right way to do it. I would like to change this and have a project that I want to paint. I started it last summer and it sat all winter in an unheated garage. So some of the metal has some rust, other parts scale, etc. What is the best way to clean all this up and get ready to paint? I would guess some 3M scotch brite quick lock discs? Do you wipe it down with anything like paint thinner or something? Also what do you guys recommend for primer or paint?

    Thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    arkansas
    Posts
    781

    Default

    best way is to have it sand blasted... a 2 part paint will get you a durable finish... if you dont wanna sand blast, then get the elbow grease out and a grinder with a flap disc
    welder_one

    nothing fancy, just a few hot glue guns for metal
    www.sicfabrications.com

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    378

    Default

    I don't know how good of a finish you want, but if you just want to stop the rust and get some paint on it, Rust Oleum Rusty Metal Primer sticks to rusty metal like you would not believe. Just brush off the loose scale and hit it with the Rusty Metal Primer, then paint in the color of your choice.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Hampton, Va.
    Posts
    386

    Default

    I live near the water and I treat everything with ospho. You just brush it on and let it sit over night and then wipe the residue off, prime and paint and it will be rust free for many years. I like this product and it has worked for me. I have a friend that restores cars and he puts a coat of this on before priming. If you have large pieces of rust scale brush them off but if just rust and no large pieces flaking off just put it on and have at it.

    Wheelchair

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    The Colorado Gas Patch
    Posts
    185

    Default

    Look in the phone book for powder coating shops. Take the project to them it will be done better/cheaper than you can do it yourself..
    Steve

    Bobcat 250EFI

    Syncrowave 250

    Millermatic 350P

    Hypertherm 1250

    A Bunch of tools

    And a forklift to move the heavy stuff with..

    Looking at CNC Plasmas

    It's Miller Time - Get Back To Work!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    812

    Default

    The project I'm working on now I cleaned bare metal with DuPont 5717S Metal Conditioner, this removes surface rusts and etches the surface. Then I shot it with Nason 491-16 Ful-Poxy epoxy primer (for bare metal) and finished it off with DuPont industrial coating (Imron). Yea, it's an expensive way to go, but the client was willing to pay for the quality and Imron lasts a very long time and provides excellent protection.
    Cost?

    Don't remember how much the metal etch was, probably $30.00+-
    The Full-Poxy is $200.00 a gallon with activator (provides 2 gallons)
    The Imron varies with color and gloss, $150-$300 a gallon (mixes 4 parts to 1, so provides 5 quarts)
    Miller Syncrowave 200
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    130XP MIG
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    More stuff than I can keep track of..

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    The Colorado Gas Patch
    Posts
    185

    Default

    If the project flexes or gets impacted I hope you used the flex agent.. For less than half of the money you spent on the paint alone the powder coat shop would have handed you the finished product.. with a much better (sand blasted / electrostatic applied) baked on environmentally friendly finish..

    Rustoleum industrial polyurethane is more flexible than imron, I have shot "E" all of the above in my industrial coating days.. Imron is good for repeat business as it does not last long under harsh conditions..

    JMO's
    Steve

    Bobcat 250EFI

    Syncrowave 250

    Millermatic 350P

    Hypertherm 1250

    A Bunch of tools

    And a forklift to move the heavy stuff with..

    Looking at CNC Plasmas

    It's Miller Time - Get Back To Work!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    812

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Pass-N-Gas View Post
    If the project flexes or gets impacted I hope you used the flex agent.. For less than half of the money you spent on the paint alone the powder coat shop would have handed you the finished product.. with a much better (sand blasted / electrostatic applied) baked on environmentally friendly finish..

    Rustoleum industrial polyurethane is more flexible than imron, I have shot "E" all of the above in my industrial coating days.. Imron is good for repeat business as it does not last long under harsh conditions..

    JMO's
    There isn't a booth big enough to fit this into! When it gets finished I'll post up some pics.
    Miller Syncrowave 200
    Homemade Water Cooler
    130XP MIG
    Spectrum 375
    60 year old Logan Lathe
    Select Machine and Tool Mill
    More stuff than I can keep track of..

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Houston TX
    Posts
    240

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ponch37300 View Post
    I've always just been happy to finish my projects and never really cared if they got painted before so dont have much experience with the right way to do it. I would like to change this and have a project that I want to paint. I started it last summer and it sat all winter in an unheated garage. So some of the metal has some rust, other parts scale, etc. What is the best way to clean all this up and get ready to paint? I would guess some 3M scotch brite quick lock discs? Do you wipe it down with anything like paint thinner or something? Also what do you guys recommend for primer or paint?

    Thanks
    Proper metal prep IS EVERYTHING on a paint project.
    Fail to do it right and you waste your money buying the paint.

    I use PPG products. They are no better or no worse than other brands, it is just what I use.

    Whatever brand you decide to use, make sure the other products are from the same brand.
    The PPG I use is the Color Concept product. This 2 part paint is absolutely bullet proof.
    I use the 2 part primer as well.
    Once you spray the primer, no rust will ever affect it again. You could soak it in saltwater.
    However, you have one week to apply the paint. Longer than a week you will have to scuff sand it and apply another light coat of primer. Then you have another week to paint it. The bonding is chemical, so that is the reason for the time frame. It is all explained clearly in the instruction product sheets available from the PPG dealer.

    For the metal prep, I always wash the part first with hot soapy water.
    I then remove the rust with a wire cup brush.
    Next I apply metal conditioner and then rinse it off.
    Dry and apply primer as soon as you can (to prevent light rust from forming)
    Paint it within one week, or sooner. I always prime one day and paint the next.
    You will love the finish, but not the cost of paint and catalyst. This stuff is getting expensive by the day.

    But regarding the powder coating........ Well, not for me thank you. There is no repairing chips that you will get with powder coating, and you will get them.
    And for the cost of having that done, you can buy the 2 part paint and primer. Just my 2 of course.
    pg
    Dynasty 200 DX_set up on 3 phase
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  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    The Colorado Gas Patch
    Posts
    185

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by nocheepgas View Post
    There isn't a booth big enough to fit this into! When it gets finished I'll post up some pics.
    That I can relate too..I had to blast n paint the Sterling 5500 truck bed for the same reason..

    Here's my pics:



    Steve

    Bobcat 250EFI

    Syncrowave 250

    Millermatic 350P

    Hypertherm 1250

    A Bunch of tools

    And a forklift to move the heavy stuff with..

    Looking at CNC Plasmas

    It's Miller Time - Get Back To Work!

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