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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    6

    Default 1940's Willys CJ2A

    hi I am a student (19yr old) going to be working on a Willys CJ2A to bring it back to life the way I want it.

    before I dive into the body work I am practicing my welds.
    since I am new to body work, I dont really know what I am doing. I know that I dont want to heat up the metal to much or it will warp my body.

    should I do a lot of tack welds or do I do constant weld but for a very short bead say 1''.

    here are some of my test pieces.








  2. #2

    Default

    for a start its good
    1 turn up the heat and hold time if you do stitch weld (lots of connected tacks)
    2 consistency keep the time or speed of travel the same and get the penetration
    3 body panels may be thin but poor penetration on the welds the panel will break out and rust
    4 use a fine flap wheel on the grinder or it the beads are nice keep them ( ive had customers look at my body panels on old school 40s trucks and 60-70s era mustangs and they wanted the beads)

    5 practice practice practice its looking good
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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    6

    Default

    thank you cncmachinist.

    some actually told me to lay smaller constant beads around 1''. would that be more appropriate.

    to me I think it would warp panels.

    the other thing I was wondering is when tack welding I would need to have my wire speed and voltage set appropriate to the metal thickness (to hear a constant buzz) some were saying make voltage to penetrate and turn wire speed down allot, wouldnt that mean the welding wire would burn away faster and not really appropriate.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Bay Area
    Posts
    29

    Default no expert but...

    I'm not sure I know what I'm doing most of the time, but I've put lots of tack welds on my 78 FJ40 Landcruiser "restoration" in the last year. Lots of 18 GA work, some 16/14 GA on the rear sill, etc.

    As with most things I would really worry about good fit (really good fit on the 18 GA), getting everything really clean and heat control. Spread the tacks way out and let everything slowly come together. Some things really need to be well clamped too or they will move enough to screw things up - even when just being rough-tacked in place.

    I just connect tacks these days, every time I've tried even a conservative (1"-less) beads I get into heat/warpage problems. I used to space tacks, grind them almost to surface and try to "bridge" them together. These days I just tack all over the place, grind almost to surface and keep tacking spaces until it all comes together. Grinding down the tacks in the process seems to help getting good penetration when the tacks come together - too much of a heat-sink with all that steel in the previous tack.

    Not sure what GA your sample is but I would also be concerned about the back side. On a vertical weld I still like to see the butt joint "fuse" on the backside. On a flat surface (truck bed, etc.) I like to see a bit of filler/bead that I don't grind if it's hidden.

    You can see some more weld comments at:
    http://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series...ml#post4793697

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    812

    Default

    Make sure you are using some .023 wire (ESAB makes some for autobody work called "EasyGrind") that should generate less heat when grinding down your tacks. I also use 3M discs on my die grinder that are designed to produce less heat. They are not flap discs, but you can even grind wet with these to reduce heat warpage. 3M calls the material "Cubitron" IIRC. As the other posters indicated, only use tacks and spread them apart. Most of all, be patient. I know how easy it is to try and rush into completing those patches.
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  6. #6

    Default

    when doing lots of tacks connected or snitch welds crank it up till you hear the sizzle that shows the heat to wire speed are just right
    Leblond Makino mills
    HAAS CNC SL-40 lathe
    American Pacemaker lathe
    wells index mill
    hydrotel rebuilt
    syncrowave 250
    diversion 165
    Miller Elite Vintage USA

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