the little lights at the bottom are red/ amber lights. they are red as clearance and 2 per side turn amber with the flashers. same with the main rear lights. it has led marker lights up and down the sides. the marker lights on the sides only required a 1/4 inch hole for mounting and are very small.
i did not sell him the trailer cheaper than a manufacturer... fella wanted a trailer that he could trust (you know what im talkin about) buy a trailer from lowes and then build one for yourself...... which one gonna be better???
i didnt make a killin off the trailer, however, i did make a little. (besides, he delivers my iron work across the nation for REAL CHEAP)
if the lights are a problem, then how does a truck and trailer that's running "chicken lights" all over it fair? i was told by a DOT officer that if they on there, they gotta be lit... the trailer passed insp and got tagged.... now that weight sittin on the inspecting officer *shrugs*
Results 11 to 20 of 22
07-11-2010, 12:49 PM #11
07-11-2010, 10:07 PM #12
I'm also glad to hear you charged him more than a factory trailer, because even though I don't know you personally I KNOW your quality would be better (yeah I know EXACTLY what your talking about ).
I've done a lot of warranty repair, repair and custom fab on factory built trailers, their quality is the reason their prices are where they are... well that and the quantity that they build per year.
Good on him for being willing to pay for the quality that he wants, that trailer will last him for a LONG time.
Like I said in my first post, nice trailer.at home:
2012 325 Trailblazer EFI with Excel power
2007 302 Trailblazer with the Robin SOLD
2008 Suitcase 12RC
2009 Dynasty 200DX
2000 XMT 304
2008 Thermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52
Retired:Shopmaster 300 with a HF-251
07-11-2010, 10:51 PM #13Junior Member
- Join Date
- Jun 2010
What kind of lights are those 1/4" ones you're talking about? We have those on our Kenworth roll-beds but I havn't been able to find them online.
07-12-2010, 07:04 AM #14
07-14-2010, 12:49 PM #15Senior Member
- Join Date
- Feb 2009
- Lodi, CA
No inspections here in Cal, build it, haul it to a DMV, lady comes out, puts a serial number sticker on it, goes back in, finishes the paperwork, you pay your money, get a plate, and done.
Commercial CHP, however, have the right to pull any vehicle over, at any time, with a reason or not. Can do a quick inspection, or a full inspection, whatever they want.
Over the years, I have NEVER seen anybody getting a ticket for too many lights, even in place of the "three-bar" on the back of the trailer.
You WILL, however, get a ticket for any light that doesn't work. Some years ago, I built a headboard behind a Freightliner cab, required in Nevada for hauling hay. Driver wanted it dressed up some, install cute little lights up and down each side. Owner said fine, but not wired in, didn't want all the electrical problems. Just decorative. Sure enough, a few months later, got a ticket for inoperable lights, had to wire them in (cheaper than filling all the square holes I'd already cut into the frame).
I notice also there was some mention of reflectors, if you buy the right lights they are reflectorized, meet the DOT requirements for both lights and reflectors. Costs a couple bucks more per light.
Another point to make, Fed DOT specifically says, tail-lights can NOT be used to satisfy the rear clearance light requirements. A way around this, simply wire the outside "tail-light" on a two or three tail-light per side setup, into the marker light or clearance light switch on the tractor, it then becomes a clearance light. You still have other lights, to wire into the headlight or tail-light switch, that will satisfy the tail-light requirements.
Remember, a typical seven wire commercial hookup, has both brown wire (for clearance/markers) and black wire (for tail-lights).Obviously, I'm just a hack-artist, you shouldn't be listening to anything I say .....
07-28-2010, 07:55 PM #16Junior Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2010
How did you go about fabbing up the gooseneck tongue? Im guessing you had a few helping hands? Also, did you start building the trailer upside down and flip it to finish it? Or did you build the whole thing right side up? I use to build all my own bumper pulls and I always started building them upside down. Made it much easier to weld the x members and rails on...but that goose neck looks like it would be a MONSTER to flip over!
07-28-2010, 08:55 PM #17
yes, i have a few helping hands, a john deere tractor with forks, a 4 yard wheel loader, a t-300 tracked skid steer with forks...lol... I fabbed the gooseneck seperate and welded it on the completed trailer body. I built it right side up from the start... I dont like to flip em and run the chance of knocking stuff out of square...
I get everything tacked and clamped in place, then weld it all out... No final welds until its all in place. Might be a better way of doing things, but i seen too much stuff go wrong only to find that i have to cut welds loose to change it...
08-01-2010, 12:57 AM #18Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2010
A lot of the 3 axle trailers around here went for scrap. The problem with them was they were always breaking axles. ALWAYS.
Load them up to capacity with hay and pulling in and out of the fields through the ditches and they would lift the front two axles off the ground. Putting 20K on one 7.5K axle isn't the best idea.
I converted a couple of them to 8K tandem torsion axles with 17.5" wheels and tires that were adequate for part time uses for general transport stuff but not nearly as good as a dual tandem setup
08-01-2010, 01:23 AM #19
makes sense.... this trailer sees highway use...lol.... kinda hard to get any tires off the ground (if he does, he should slow down.... then again, ive never seen a slopar get fast enough)
08-23-2010, 01:01 AM #20Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2010
Just tell him to go easy pulling in and out of the truck stop parking lots and keep an eye on the leading and trailing axle at every stop. should be ok