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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Near Great Smokies Ntl. Park
    Posts
    60

    Question Main Electrical at my house question

    I am new rookie to all of Miller Welds Guys. I run my own Garage’s shop (at home) to build custom cars. I had Lincoln Pro-Mig 135 for several years.
    The big reason I really need to have Aluminum weld because I work on custom cars at my own garage.

    I been have thinking to buy MillerMatic DV12 w/ Spoolmate(#951067) or 212 w/ Spoolmate (#951068).

    I concern about my home beside my garage. My house built in 1960's and has old style main (200 amps,?) electrical w/12 plugs and 2 boxed (30 amps) cartridges at wall beside my house in outdoor. Since the MillerMatic 212 require have 230 V/30-210 amps (160 Amps at 24.5 VDC, 60% duty cycle). I am NOT familiar with electrical things.


    I have Dryer (Straight Blade Device) outlet n garage. It is 220 Volts/30 amps. And, I never use it. Can I change it to be 220 Volts for welder outlet? Will it work?

    I really enjoy read this forum...
    MillerMatic 211

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    24

    Default

    have a new service installed like right now by a licensed electrician
    you have many probs that i can see just from that pic
    also have him check out the inside of the house because 220 lines should be run with 3 wire not 2 wire

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Killingworth,Ct.
    Posts
    372

    Default Agreed

    I have to agree,,if you all ready have 200 amp service,,yours look like a typ 60 amp they put in the 60's,,It Just ooks scary!!!!!!Be safe!!!!!!!!and if you go sell your house,you wil recoup the money!!!!!!!!!Good Luck,Jack

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Palestine, TX
    Posts
    18

    Default

    You might consider getting a powered welder such as the bobcat or trailblazer and using its power outlets for the millermatic. Weigh the cost differences...




    Quote Originally Posted by Ls2cam View Post
    I am new rookie to all of Miller Welds Guys. I run my own Garage’s shop (at home) to build custom cars. I had Lincoln Pro-Mig 135 for several years.
    The big reason I really need to have Aluminum weld because I work on custom cars at my own garage.

    I been have thinking to buy MillerMatic DV12 w/ Spoolmate(#951067) or 212 w/ Spoolmate (#951068).

    I concern about my home beside my garage. My house built in 1960's and has old style main (200 amps,?) electrical w/12 plugs and 2 boxed (30 amps) cartridges at wall beside my house in outdoor. Since the MillerMatic 212 require have 230 V/30-210 amps (160 Amps at 24.5 VDC, 60% duty cycle). I am NOT familiar with electrical things.


    I have Dryer (Straight Blade Device) outlet n garage. It is 220 Volts/30 amps. And, I never use it. Can I change it to be 220 Volts for welder outlet? Will it work?

    I really enjoy read this forum...
    Y'All Hold My Beer And Watch This!!!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    72

    Default



    I have Dryer (Straight Blade Device) outlet n garage. It is 220 Volts/30 amps. And, I never use it. Can I change it to be 220 Volts for welder outlet? Will it work?

    I really enjoy read this forum...

    Yes, the drier outlet will work, but that old fused panel scares the *%#* out of me. I'd make a move on that right away.
    XMT-300 with S-64 wire feeder.
    Lincoln HI-FREQ modified to run XMT.
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  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Vancouver BC Canada
    Posts
    605

    Default

    Wow, thats some setup. I havent seen one of those is a month of sundays.
    I would take the advice given above and put it to use.
    That is by no mean a 200Amp service. More like a 70 or even 60A.
    I could be wrong though i dont think that i am.

    A new 32 space seimens panel with a 100A main and enough breakers of all sizes to run you exisiting load should not cost more that aout 500 dollars and a days wages to install the panel. Now is the time to find yourself en electrician buddy...

    another thing to consider.... is the wire in that panel made of aluminum or copper. during the sixties, Aluminum was all the rage until they found out that it wasnt such a smart choice. Nowadays Aluminum is used to feed very large services where wire size is above #2 or so.

    Can you guess which of the above is better to have? If the wire is made of AL, give serious consideration before applying a welding load to the circuit.
    Aluminum wire tends to "loosen the screws" that is holding it in place. For some reason unbenounced to me, It deos not have resiliance and once you torque down on it, thats it. It will lossen up with time.This can cause exessive heat to build up and then fire.Ive seen this happen on heating circuits. It seems to be more pronounced on 240 volt circiuts. So check that out if you do have AL wire.

    if you change your panel, use copper wire of the correct size to feed the welder .

    do you have any current draw ratings for your possible set up?
    Last edited by SignWave; 12-06-2007 at 10:45 AM.
    Will it weld? I loooove electricity!

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  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    gate city virgina
    Posts
    213

    Exclamation Get It Fixed

    Hey wow that box is scary. I would seriously take these guys advice on getting a new box and breaker setup installed one, for your safety and two to make the welder work. Also by law a house has to be run on a breaker service anymore.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    356

    Default

    holy time to upgrade, with the age of the stuff in there thats a fire waiting to happen
    mm210
    maxstar 150

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Mpls, MN
    Posts
    1,790

    Default

    New service price breakdown based on my experiences:

    You can buy a Square D 200A panel with some breakers to get you started for $120. Additional breakers are 3-12 depending on size for the smaller stuff and a 60A is around $20 (but you'd need another run of wire to be able to upgrade to a bigger welder like that, the current 10ga won't handle more than the 30A that's already on it).

    You'll need a new drop from the mast and that'll run you about 300 or so in copper depending how long a run it is (3 cables). My 13' drop of 2/0 was 300. The utility co will provide the lines to the house.

    Then you're looking at probably upgrading your ground rod and running 6ga or 8ga (I forget what mine is) to that which is pretty cheap copper.

    And then you're talking about paying a sparky for 5-7hrs to make it all happen. So that's roughly 500-700 in labor. Plus a permit fee which will likely be around 100. Mine was 82.

    My parents paid an electrician to upgrade their service and that's where the 5-7hr estimate comes from. They had a little different version of that box you have in their house.

    I recently added a new panel, meter socket (which will cost between 60-200 bucks), and relocated the service entrance which meant a new mast for my house, which is where I'm basing my prices on. I'll be updating the house panel sometime in the future.
    Syncrowave 250DX
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  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Lancaster, Pa
    Posts
    431

    Default

    I just did one similiar to this myself, you do have a 60A service there. Upgrade that thing to a 200A. The lead coming into your meter should be up to par but check with your local electric supplier to make sure.

    It is not a hard job to do as long as you know what you are doing. It will need inspected when you are done to satisfy the insurance company. Make sure the panel box you buy has more than enough slots for what you will need, in other words, if you need 10 slots, buy a box with 14 or more.
    Ken

    What else is there besides welding and riding. Besides that

    Miller Thunderbolt XL 300/200 AC/DC
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