pipe fence question

[trixline]

First thing new member here. Hiya All.
I have fenced in about 2 acres with 2 3/8 schd 40 and to cut my pipe I used a wrap around to mark pipe and then used a victor 300 with a small tip to cut the pipe. I also used my plasma cutter and used the wrap around as a guide. That worked better just a little problem moving equipment to each pipe. Just my 2 cents. A fence is something that once done will reflect the pride of the owner for a long time..Good Luck.

[SundownIII]

Bushman,

If I had that much fencing to do, I'd pick up a short length of oversize pipe which will slip over your post material. If that's not feasible, then I'd take a short length of post material and split it length wise (angle grinder) and spread it until it fit over the original piece of pipe. I'd then cut that short section into a pattern (creates the notch) which would slip over the pipe to be cut. The cut could then easily be done with a plasma cutter following the pattern. This method would eliminate the "knife edge" you would get if you tried to cut each post with a holesaw.

Sounds like a lot of work to make the pattern, but for the amount of fencing you're talking about, I think it'd be worth it.

[garybdavis]

Shure-kut (not exactly sure of the spelling) jigs and an oxy/act torch are the most common in my part of the woods. The jig is hinged with a retaining clip. You clamp it around the pipe and use it as a guide for the torch head. They come in saddle cut, 45 degree and orange peel for making dome tops for both 2 3/8 and 2 7/8 (OD) size pipe.

They run about $70 and can be found a most local welding shops around here, but consider we have cheaper access to oilfield pipe in this part of the country.

[bjfab]

I have built a lot of fence with drill stem. You need a torch, wrap-a-round, and a grinder. Get a scrap piece and grind and cut it until you get the shape you are looking for. Transfer this to the wrap-a -round and away you go. Most of it around here is 30 to 32 feet of pipe(not including the threaded part) so posts about 15 feet apart work well.

Byron

[garybdavis]

Here is the link for the shur-kut jig.

http://www.shurkut.net/

[walker]

I have done a bunch of pipe fence 2" sch40 gas pipe. I build a jig that fits in my hydraulic press, as well as an arbor adaptor and I just cut it square and squash the pipe about 2" back from the cut until it is about 1 1/8" thick. I clamp a c-clamp on the post (4" pipe) sideways to catch one end, tack the other, tack the first then weld all round in a single pass with 1/8" 6010. It looks good, is uniform and is easier than a fish mouth. The horses have not said one bad word to me about not doing the fishmouths either

[blaze'oGlory]

All those ideas sound great and all but i'd just man up and get familiar with that torch of yours. I may just be a little girl from Texas but i've gotten awfully handy at it myself. Just takes practice which you seem to be in store for quite a bit of!! Trim the ears or your saddle a 'lil lower and don't have sharp edges like that one fella said. Try a smaller tip too and don't get too far ahead of yourself 'til you develope your own technique!!
GOOD LUCK!!!!

[Vicegrip]

Make a jig from two sections of pipe that clamp around the pipe you need to cut. Use the jig to guide the gas or plasma cutter and you can crank the fishmouth cuts out easily. Pre cut the pipes to length and then you only need to light the torch once as you make the cuts assembly line style.

[Black Wolf]

After your pipes are in the ground, and cut to the correct height, go to your LWS and pick up a One Step Pipe Templet Kit.

Inside you will find heavy cardboard templates that you wrap around the upright posts, chalk out the outline, and trim with a torch. Gives you a nice, clean saddle on fit.

After a while, you will not even need to use the template, but it sure helps at the beginning.

[Grumpy]

Check out this website. It give you a template to use to cope pipe.

http://www.metalgeek.com/static/cope.pcgi