Miller Electric

Welding Discussion Forums

Home » Resources » Communities » Welding Discussion Forums
 
Miller Welding Discussion Forums - Powered by vBulletin

Page 4 of 9 FirstFirst 123456789 LastLast
Results 31 to 40 of 83
  1. #31
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Mt. Belvieu Texas.
    Posts
    7

    Default

    I dont know if you are interested or not, but this tool will do exactly what you are looking for.

    http://www.hmpipe.com/Shape.htm

    We use these on pipelines all the time. You already have a torch so all you would need is the jig. You will get a perfect cut each time and you can even set the jig to bevel the pipe so if your wanting to make a root pass you can.

    The only other thing I would suggest is set all the post, cut holes and run the pipe through the post.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    20

    Default

    I've been reading this thread with interest since I am working on a similar project as we speak.

    I'm building hay feeders for cattle out of 2 3/8" and 2 7/8" drill stem and 1" sucker rod.

    It consists of a frame made of pipe and slates where there heads go through made of sucker rod.

    Wow this has been slow going.

    I'm a young poor farmer just starting out with some metal fab tools.

    I have an old Miller Roughneck 1E engine drive welder, (picked it up out of a classified ad, hadn't run in a number of years but got it going without much trouble) I don't have torches yet or a chop saw so I have been doing all of the cutting and fitting with a 4.5" angle grinder, (laugh all you want but it does work) I'm super happy so far it looks awesome and I think it will be indestructible, bulls and what not just destroy store bought feeders and they are stupid expensive.

    I'm crimping the ends with a 12 ton manual hydraulic press, started with a big hammer and a piece of I beam but that is some tough stuff.

    I am finding that I have a bit of a hard time striking an arc on that pipe, yes it's rusty but even when I grind it clean it's miserable stuff and rod wants to stick to it like crazy, once I have an arc lit and a good puddle going it welds not bad. I tested a few of my welds with a sledge hammer and couldn't break any so i think I'm set. Just wondering if you guy have any advice as for starting my arc and what not?

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Abilene, Texas
    Posts
    639

    Default

    What rod are you using? 6011 or 6010 will weld the pipe fine. For the rods I'd run 7018.
    Jim

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    20

    Default

    I've been using 1/8" 7018 on the whole thing. I've got piles of 6013 around as well but I was told not to use it on this sort of project.

    Like I said once I get going and get some heat it seems to lay a pretty decent bead it's just getting started and a puddle formed then ity seems to weld normal so long as I keep a bead going and weld to the end of the rod.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Abilene, Texas
    Posts
    639

    Default

    If you are running AC, 6011 will probably be easier to run on the pipe. I'd still use 7018 on the rods.
    Jim

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    1

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bushman View Post
    I am building a steel pipe fence ( 2 3/8" ) for my home and need suggestions on how to cut the saddle out of the line post so the top rail rail sits smooth on top. I've tried the torch but have problems with slag and rough cut. Any tools or tricks I should know about? I've got about 5 acres to do and It will take me FOREVER at this rate!
    Pipemaster tools will probably be your lifesaver. http://www.pipemastertools.com.
    What you want to do is: (after you have your upright posts in the ground)
    1. Slip the pipemaster over the post
    2. Set your top rail on the post
    3. Push the pipemaster up so the pins contour the top rail
    4. Set the top rail aside
    5. Slide the pipemaster back down the post and trace out the pattern
    6. Cut and weld

    Hope this helps.

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Salem ,Ohio
    Posts
    3,913

    Cool

    Wow that http://www.pipemastertools.com is a great link...Bob
    Bob Wright, Grandson of Tee Nee Boat Trailer Founder
    Metal Master Fab Salem, Oh 44460
    Birthplace of the Silver & Deming Drill
    1999 MM185 w/185 Spoolgun,1986 Thunderbolt AC/DC
    Spool Gun conversion. How To Do It. Below.
    http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...php?albumid=48

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    WEATHERFORD, TEXAS
    Posts
    40

    Default

    Tool, I don't know if I can offer you any help or not as you might have already gotten through your project. I have been building pipe fence and pens for the last ten years, so I will share some of my experience. If you can locate a few pipe templates for the 2 7/8'' and 2 3/8'' pipe along with a good torch, it will speed things up. Welding rusty pipe is hard to beat with a 6010 rod. It will burn through most any trash on the pipe. If there is bunches of rust, paint, or dirt you probably best wire brush it off the best you can. I do agree with Jim-tx on the 7018 for the sucker rods. We tack those up with the 6010s and get everything in its place, then go back and burn them in with the 7018s. On the used drill stem it can get fun if its magnetized. Hope this helps!
    Jeffery

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Saskatoon Sk.
    Posts
    1

    Default Fence post cut out

    check out your local supply store. they make metal templates for cutting pipe .i would use a torch with the smallest tip that will work for you.

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Delhi, Ontario:
    Posts
    1,971

    Question Welding pipe fence :

    Tool, Hi; Did you say if your welder is AC/DC or just an AC Machine ???
    It sounds to me like your trying to run E7018 DC Rods on an AC welder !!! .... Norm :

    Sunrise Outside My Shop In Delhi, Ontario

    - Arcair- K 4000 CAC.

    - LN-25 Wire Feeder

    - Lincoln Ranger 8- Engine Drive- CC\CV:



    - Lincoln Power Mig 180C
    - Spoolgun.
    - DeWalt Chop Saw .
    - DeWalt Compressor - 13cfm, @ 100 psi.

    www.normsmobilewelding.blogspot.com

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Warning: Function split() is deprecated in /mnt/stor3-wc1-dfw1/357822/357839/www.millerwelds.com/web/content/lib/footer.inc.php on line 82

Welding Projects

Special Offers: See the latest Miller deals and promotions.