did a Dye penatrant test today at school and came out mostly clean. this is the second in a row that was clean.. gotta work on a few little things but i should be ready to test with inthe month.
top:
Bottom:
slight pin hole on bottom, easy fix tho:
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Thread: Dye Penatrant Test
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05-20-2010, 05:23 PM #1
Dye Penatrant Test
American By Birth, Union by Choice!
4th generation Pipefitters LU 537
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05-21-2010, 05:59 PM #2
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Guess I'll be the first

Not sure how long you've been at it, but most testers require a "Neat workman like appearance", you're not there yet, but if you've only been at it a short time maybe you could be ready to test in a month? Otherwise, keep practicing. Also why 3 passes?Miller Syncrowave 200
Homemade Water Cooler
130XP MIG
Spectrum 375
60 year old Logan Lathe
Select Machine and Tool Mill
More stuff than I can keep track of..
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05-21-2010, 07:27 PM #3
run three stringers because i cant get it in 2
.
actually i find if i run the 3, i can keep them a little neater and more consistant, also it means i can carry a little less metal with each rod.
I know about the appearance, and that is one of the little tweaks im making now, we had a test last week and i wasnt ready, so the next one will most likely be mid-june.American By Birth, Union by Choice!
4th generation Pipefitters LU 537
SpeedGlass 9000x Hood
Miller Elite Titanium 9400 Hood
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05-21-2010, 07:48 PM #4
Senior Member
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It's hard to stacked the beads beside each other on a 2 inches pipe in a neat way.
when I do it I try to put the edge of the puddle on the apex of the previous bead.
Good luck
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05-21-2010, 07:59 PM #5
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I had a long-time welder give me some advice the other day that helped out a ton. When you weave, he said to watch for a shadow cast on the previous bead from the arc. Move your rod so that the edge of the puddle just hits on the edge of the shadow line. This will give you a consistent line to follow on your previous reinforcement pass. That way you don't get the individual bead look, or "corn rows" as my one instructor calls em. Just my 2 cents, hope it helps
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05-21-2010, 09:21 PM #6
Miller Syncrowave 200
Homemade Water Cooler
130XP MIG
Spectrum 375
60 year old Logan Lathe
Select Machine and Tool Mill
More stuff than I can keep track of..
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05-22-2010, 06:19 AM #7
Miller Dynasty 700...OH YEA BABY!!
MM 350P...PULSE SPRAYIN' MONSTER
Miller Dynasty 200 DX "Blue Lightning"
Miller Bobcat 225 NT
Miller 30-A Spoolgun
Miller WC-115-A
Miller Spectrum 300
Miller Spoolmate 200
Miller 225 Thunderbolt
SPEEDGLAS 9100XX
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05-22-2010, 07:52 AM #8
sorry guys.. brain fart on my part should have included it.
-2"pipe A106, XXS .436" wall, single v grove, 35 degree bevel (+/- 5 degrees)
-6G position with no side to side rotation of the stand.
-Open root, no chill ring, 1/8" gap 1/8" land
-E6010 1/8 root, E7018 3/32 balance of coupon, all passes are uphill progression DCEP.
- OD reinforcement flush to 3/16" MAX.
for the root I'm running at 60 amps with good penetration.
I then run two weaves at 72.5 amps and 75 amps respectively
I then run two stringers to flush at 77.5 amps
and I finish with a 3 stringer cap at 77.5 amps
Using Lincoln Fleetweld 5P+ for 6010 and Lincoln Excalibur 7018 H4R, which is stored in a 300# Pheonix oven.
Using a Miller MOG 250/250 BPC machine.
again, sorry for the lack of info, if you would like any more, let me know.
Thanks for all the tips btw.Last edited by DamageInc537; 05-22-2010 at 08:08 AM.
American By Birth, Union by Choice!
4th generation Pipefitters LU 537
SpeedGlass 9000x Hood
Miller Elite Titanium 9400 Hood
-
05-22-2010, 02:56 PM #9
For me i go with a 3/32 gap, dime landing. 90 amps for 6010 1/8" root, 95 amps for hot pass 6010, 80-85 amps for fill passes and cap. Every job I have tested for required 3 stringer cap min. no more than 1/16" reinforement on cap, 1/32" on root. If you are in the UA you should be testing to ASME section IX. You also need to tighten up the stingers, edge of the second stringer on the crown of the first.





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