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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Cambridge, MA
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    Default Dye Penatrant Test

    did a Dye penatrant test today at school and came out mostly clean. this is the second in a row that was clean.. gotta work on a few little things but i should be ready to test with inthe month.

    top:


    Bottom:


    slight pin hole on bottom, easy fix tho:
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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
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    Arizona
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    812

    Default 83 Views and No Comments

    Guess I'll be the first

    Not sure how long you've been at it, but most testers require a "Neat workman like appearance", you're not there yet, but if you've only been at it a short time maybe you could be ready to test in a month? Otherwise, keep practicing. Also why 3 passes?
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  3. #3
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    Default

    run three stringers because i cant get it in 2.

    actually i find if i run the 3, i can keep them a little neater and more consistant, also it means i can carry a little less metal with each rod.

    I know about the appearance, and that is one of the little tweaks im making now, we had a test last week and i wasnt ready, so the next one will most likely be mid-june.
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  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Williams Lake, British Columbia
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    722

    Default

    It's hard to stacked the beads beside each other on a 2 inches pipe in a neat way.
    when I do it I try to put the edge of the puddle on the apex of the previous bead.
    Good luck

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Newport News, VA/Fremont, OH
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    182

    Default

    I had a long-time welder give me some advice the other day that helped out a ton. When you weave, he said to watch for a shadow cast on the previous bead from the arc. Move your rod so that the edge of the puddle just hits on the edge of the shadow line. This will give you a consistent line to follow on your previous reinforcement pass. That way you don't get the individual bead look, or "corn rows" as my one instructor calls em. Just my 2 cents, hope it helps

  6. #6
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    Dec 2008
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    Arizona
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DamageInc537 View Post
    run three stringers because i cant get it in 2.

    actually i find if i run the 3, i can keep them a little neater and more consistant, also it means i can carry a little less metal with each rod.

    I know about the appearance, and that is one of the little tweaks im making now, we had a test last week and i wasnt ready, so the next one will most likely be mid-june.
    What size pipe are you welding, wall thickness, root opening, etc? If it's 4" or less you ought to be able to get it in a single pass (I'm assuming it's an oxy-acetylene weld).
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  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
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    Lake of the Ozarks MO
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by nocheepgas View Post
    What size pipe are you welding, wall thickness, root opening, etc? If it's 4" or less you ought to be able to get it in a single pass (I'm assuming it's an oxy-acetylene weld).

    I don't think so esp. if you read this. Besides I think that would be one GIANT honker of a weld if it was OA



    Quote Originally Posted by DamageInc537 View Post
    run three stringers because i cant get it in 2.

    actually i find if i run the 3, i can keep them a little neater and more consistant, also it means i can carry a little less metal with each rod.
    I think it would be nice to know the pipe size and rods and amps and all that tho....the OP is quite vague.
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  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Cambridge, MA
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    Default

    sorry guys.. brain fart on my part should have included it.

    -2"pipe A106, XXS .436" wall, single v grove, 35 degree bevel (+/- 5 degrees)
    -6G position with no side to side rotation of the stand.
    -Open root, no chill ring, 1/8" gap 1/8" land
    -E6010 1/8 root, E7018 3/32 balance of coupon, all passes are uphill progression DCEP.
    - OD reinforcement flush to 3/16" MAX.

    for the root I'm running at 60 amps with good penetration.
    I then run two weaves at 72.5 amps and 75 amps respectively
    I then run two stringers to flush at 77.5 amps
    and I finish with a 3 stringer cap at 77.5 amps

    Using Lincoln Fleetweld 5P+ for 6010 and Lincoln Excalibur 7018 H4R, which is stored in a 300# Pheonix oven.

    Using a Miller MOG 250/250 BPC machine.

    again, sorry for the lack of info, if you would like any more, let me know.


    Thanks for all the tips btw.
    Last edited by DamageInc537; 05-22-2010 at 08:08 AM.
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  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    cincinnati, oh
    Posts
    1

    Default

    For me i go with a 3/32 gap, dime landing. 90 amps for 6010 1/8" root, 95 amps for hot pass 6010, 80-85 amps for fill passes and cap. Every job I have tested for required 3 stringer cap min. no more than 1/16" reinforement on cap, 1/32" on root. If you are in the UA you should be testing to ASME section IX. You also need to tighten up the stingers, edge of the second stringer on the crown of the first.

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