I've used both paint and powdercoat finishes before. The key to how well a finish turns out and if it is as durable as advertised is to follow instructions. Every finish manufacterer provides a tech sheet for their product. If the finish applicator is the kind of guy to crumple up said sheet and do what he wants to do, then he has no right to complain when the finish fails. many finishes cannot be applied over a sandblasted surface without first sanding it to a specified grit. As long as I have followed the tech sheets, I have never had any major finish problems.
Results 11 to 20 of 25
Thread: finally painting my rig!
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05-26-2010, 03:40 AM #11
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05-26-2010, 07:31 AM #12
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I don't have much use for powder coating either, done right, not done right, who cares but lots of rust under it. I have used most of the Dupont line, the zinc is fine for auto body, I guess its ok in general but for equipment we use Corlar epoxy primer followed with Imron industrial top coats. I don't do much fancy for prep, sandblast, followed by quick hit with hand scuff of scotchbrite, simple blow off with air, then prime. The brite is important, first it dislodges stuck sand and second it smooths hi spots from blasting, you can really feel the difference, bare blast then run hand over, scuff it then feel. It knocks off little spikes on surface that tend to stick up thru primer.
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05-26-2010, 08:44 PM #13
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I got my rig back from paint shop today. Black really shows how bad the wheels need a polish![IMG]
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06-01-2010, 07:30 PM #14
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- May 2010
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The rig looks great.
I just got done sandblasting and painting my truck utility bed also. It's nice to get it done isn't it.
Matt Kline - My mobile welding service
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06-01-2010, 08:47 PM #15
ive had beds that were painted, ive had beds that were powder coated, funny thing is, neither one last for crap after the first time you slide a piece of 1 inch 2 ft by 2 ft plate over it, or throw an excavator bucket or frame for a hydraulic breaker on it....
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06-02-2010, 12:50 PM #16
Like I said ALL finishes will eventually fail, the time depends on how you maintain them and treat them.
If you plan on setting large items like that on your deck your best bet would be to cover those parts with some type of box liner. It too will fail depending on how rough you are with it, but it would be about the best way to go.at home:
2012 325 Trailblazer EFI with Excel power
2007 302 Trailblazer with the Robin FOR SALE
2008 Suitcase 12RC
Spoolmatic 30A
WC-24
2009 Dynasty 200DX
2000 XMT 304
2008 Thermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52
Sold:MM130XP
Sold:MM 251
Sold:CST 280
at work:
Invision 350MP
Dynasty 350
Millermatic 350P
Retired:Shopmaster 300 with a HF-251
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06-02-2010, 08:55 PM #17
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- Jan 2007
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06-03-2010, 07:04 PM #18
Will never rust
I had my deck Hot Galvinized dip in 2002 when i built it.8 years later not a sign of rust.Been throwing metal on the deck,excavator buckets,snowplowing/roadsalt.Hasn,t done a thing to this coating i ,d recommend this to anyone wanting zero maintenance.
BB402D
TB300D
DIMENSION652
MM250X
MAXSTAR140
S-32 FEEDER W/1260 IRONMATE FC/GUN
HT/PWR-MAX1250 PLASMA
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06-03-2010, 08:32 PM #19
nice rig, never would have thought of having it galvanized.... good idea. how much did that cost?
and seriously, down here in hillbillyville (arkansas) i have been (this is God's honest truth) run off a couple jobsites because my truck wasnt beat up enough, dirty enough, and the likes. to quote one person "son, you cant be a REAL welder, that truck is too pretty. Makes me think you aint work enough, now go on, i'll find me a workin welder"
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06-04-2010, 03:34 AM #20
Back in 2002 it was $1400.00.
BB402D
TB300D
DIMENSION652
MM250X
MAXSTAR140
S-32 FEEDER W/1260 IRONMATE FC/GUN
HT/PWR-MAX1250 PLASMA


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