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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta
    Posts
    197

    Default Fuel tank liner???

    Hi there, I am in need of a solution to fix a rust problem in my fuel tank of my resto car. I haven't actually looked closely at the tank or pulled it out yet, but am trying to get the car running to examine it for a rehaul (see what needs to be done) and would like to have it running decently before i pull it so i know what needs doing to it. I looked in the carbs (S.U carbs) and in the float chambers, there is chunks of cr@p and dirt, etc. Also, the fuel coming out of the line before the engine is murky as well. My question is how should i go about this problem. Has anyone ever used a tank linig kit as shown in link, and if so, do these work well?
    Any help regarding this issue will be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks in advance!

    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-900056-3/

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Posts
    3,047

    Default Sloshing compound...

    Sammy
    I have never used the stuff... but have heard that when properly cleaned and prepped that they work pretty well.... found an informative thread on a Chrysler site that you might find interesting..

    http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Fuel/tank.htm

    hope this helps
    Heiti

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    S.W. Pennsylvania
    Posts
    2,250

    Default

    Ive used a product I think was called KB , I believe they are out of Ohio. It worked really good as far as I can tell. I don't think I would use it to try to stop a known leak though, I think it is best used as a prevention tool.
    I will see if I can find the name of it tomorrow, I can't find it right now but I think it was KB.
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  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta
    Posts
    197

    Default

    Thanks.
    I don't believe the tank has a leak but judging by the gas coming from it, it probably has rust on the inside
    For now i will run the engine from another gas can to assess it.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Salem ,Ohio
    Posts
    3,898

    Cool

    That stuff works great. POR15 has a kit also. My neighbor had a rusty crappy tank off his Ford Falcon and put in some chain sloshed it around then poured in that stuff and it dried hard as nails. He also did his old tractor and lawn mower with the extra stuff. Summit Racing is just up the road from me and that sure is the big boys toy store ...Bob
    Bob Wright, Grandson of Tee Nee Boat Trailer Founder
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  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Houston, Tx.
    Posts
    378

    Default

    Those kits work fairly well if the tank only has surface rust on the inside. If the tank is rusted badly enough to comprimise it's structure, you're better off finding a serviceable used tank or an aftermarket replacement. The kits you mention come with an acid to clean the inside of the tank prior to coating, but this does not always work well. I usually have the tanks cleaned at a shop that services radiators and heat exchangers as they come out spotless and ready to coat.


    By the way, you might as tear those S.U. carbs down and clean/rebuild them. They work great when they are clean but are pretty sensitive to dirt and contamination.
    Last edited by davinci2010; 05-02-2010 at 12:34 AM. Reason: post script

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta
    Posts
    197

    Thumbs up

    Thanks for the advice. Couple more things to do and i will probably get a kit after checking out the tank closer. Will see.
    Thanks
    Hey Davinci, when i took off the lid to the float chambers, a few months ago, there was gunk in them so it may be a good idea to clean em up just to get it running. Then i will do a proper rebuild (or get it done) when i do the engine. Are they fairly difficult to do on your own? I have had conflicting reports about S.U.'s.
    Last edited by Sammy; 05-02-2010 at 05:26 AM.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Lethbridge, AB, Canada
    Posts
    32

    Default

    SU's are very sensitive to junk in the fuel bowls. You NEED to clean them out. Have a look at the way they work, they draw fuel from the bottom and any obstructions in the line will stop fuel flow (or worse restrict it, which is hard to diagnose). They can be removed without taking the carbs off. While your playing, take the return spring off the carbs and see if the throttle shaft is loose in the bore. This is the worst wear area on SU's and as it mucks up the vacuum signal to the piston which makes them not want to idle, screws up mileage, and gives them the reputation for being difficult.
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  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta
    Posts
    197

    Thumbs up

    Thanks guys! I'll clean out the carbs ASAP and keep you posted.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Posts
    3,047

    Default P1800 ... Jensen??

    Sammy
    do not know the vintage of your P1800.... but the very first ones were hand built under contract by Jensen in england... just a bit of trivia...

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