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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Arlington, MA
    Posts
    14

    Default Aquarium stand advice

    I'd like to build an aquarium stand. I'm thinking of using 1 1/2"x 14ga. sq. tubing to construct a frame. I'll then cover this from in wood. There will also be a 1/2 thick plywood top to the frame. I'd like to build the frame bigger than the tank. The frame will be 48"L x 24"W x 32"H. The tank is 36"L x 18"W x 24"H and will weigh anywhere from 800lbs to 950lbs.

    This is what I'm planning on:
    Frame only front view


    Frame, top and tank right side. front is on the left.


    Does anyone have any advice or suggestions? See any obvious flaws in my plan?

    Thanks!
    Jason

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Gretna, Nebraska
    Posts
    35

    Post hope this helps

    I have several fish tanks and the only thing I would add is (X) braceing in the back then dry test with something heavy just to be sure

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Arlington, MA
    Posts
    14

    Default

    I'm thinking of adding diagonal gussetts on all vertical members just to be on the safe side.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Vancouver BC Canada
    Posts
    605

    Default looks strong enough to me

    Hi Dedfish,
    I was in the local fish store not too long ago and Hagen had a "full kit" 150 gallon tank and stand. it was particle board on the outside and a steel frame on the inside. ewwwww....

    Thing is, the frame was so puny it looked as if the tank would crush it or do a side step by buckling the stand. Smash!! water all over the living room...

    My last fish tank was a 150 USG's but it was on a plywood structure.

    I guess what im trying to say is that the stell is stronger than you'd think. So if you take that idea (nice drawing by the way what program did you use?) of yours and add the gussets you mentioned, i think it'll hold alot more than a 95 gallon tank. anyway be safe.. Insurance companies arent to pleased about fixing water damage..

    what kind of fish do you have? I was into cichlids. african ones.
    Will it weld? I loooove electricity!

    Miller 251/30A spool
    Syncro200
    Spectrum 625
    O/A
    Precix 5x10 CNC Router12"Z
    Standard modern lathe
    Cheap Chinese mill that does the trick... sort of...
    horizontal 7x12 bandsaw
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  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Vancouver BC Canada
    Posts
    605

    Default

    Ooops. I guess I should read a little farther..

    Put some shelves and storage into the design. if youve got an external filter (like a magnum 350 or a fluval) your gonna want to have a home for it. Mine was behind a door and it didnt even make the slightest sound. Very pleasing overall effect. this shelving and stroge would also add strength to you already nice looking design. and how about some legs? you need some place for dust bunnies to collect!!!

    Cheers.
    Will it weld? I loooove electricity!

    Miller 251/30A spool
    Syncro200
    Spectrum 625
    O/A
    Precix 5x10 CNC Router12"Z
    Standard modern lathe
    Cheap Chinese mill that does the trick... sort of...
    horizontal 7x12 bandsaw
    Roland XC540 PRO III
    54" laminator
    hammer and screwdriver (most used)
    little dog
    pooper scooper (2nd most used...)

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Arlington, MA
    Posts
    14

    Default

    This is for a salt water reef tank, 70gal. Under the stand will house the filtration equipment including a sump (a 29gal tank with more live rock and macro algae), a protein skimmer, a few dosing pumps to add additives at intervals through out the day and a controller to monitor and record temp and php and also to control the lights. This is a common setup for reef tanks. One of the reasons of building the stand bigger than the tank is to allow room to upgrade to a bigger tank later.

    I know what you mean about being scared the commercial stands you see in pet stores will collapse under the weight. You'd be surprised by how much the bottom rim of the tank distributes the weight across the surface.

    I used to keep cichlids before I moved on to saltwater.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Mpls, MN
    Posts
    1,790

    Default

    If you properly attach the plywood sides (at least three of them), you don't need any cross bracing, as the wood will do that for you. Same principle as home construction with the sheathing being a loaded member.
    Syncrowave 250DX
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    Airco MED20 feeder
    Thermal Dynamics Cutmaster 81
    Smith O/A rig
    And more machinery than you can shake a 7018 rod at

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Arlington, MA
    Posts
    14

    Default

    The front and at least 1 of the sides will be made removable.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Vancouver BC Canada
    Posts
    605

    Default

    It just occured to me..that lower coral tank has alot of airation to it right? Lots of tiny "fuzzy" bubbles? Maybe you want to make that steel frame from some stainless or paint the h e l l out of it. Those little bubbles each carry a tiny bit of mineral and salt. When this little bubble ( and all of his buddies)pops, its going to land partly on that nice steel frame and the chemical reaction will with time rust your work into the ground.... just a thought.
    Will it weld? I loooove electricity!

    Miller 251/30A spool
    Syncro200
    Spectrum 625
    O/A
    Precix 5x10 CNC Router12"Z
    Standard modern lathe
    Cheap Chinese mill that does the trick... sort of...
    horizontal 7x12 bandsaw
    Roland XC540 PRO III
    54" laminator
    hammer and screwdriver (most used)
    little dog
    pooper scooper (2nd most used...)

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Arlington, MA
    Posts
    14

    Default

    Yea...I'll be putting on several coats of paint. I've also considered powder coating it.

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