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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Lethbridge, AB, Canada
    Posts
    32

    Default

    Here are a few more of my cars:

    My car.
    Start:



    Finish


    I also own this 242.



    Started here:
    Synchrowave 180SD
    Millermatic 252
    Hypertherm 35
    MetalMaster 14" Saw
    Other random stuff.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta
    Posts
    197

    Thumbs up

    Thanks for the tips. I haven't done a whole lot on it recently... been trying to organize the garage to get the most workspace and best setup,etc.
    Appreciate the help!

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta
    Posts
    197

    Default Gettin to work

    I'm beginning to work on the floor again. I'm wondering what different options there are for creating new floor pans.
    Any ideas would be great.
    I already have an idea from Coburn Perfomance which i am planning on but any pics from anyone to help me get the idea is great. This is to bend the ribs in it over some angle.

    Thanks in advance.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Posts
    1

    Thumbs up How to weld a car floor panel

    Quote Originally Posted by Sammy View Post
    Its a Volvo P1800. Not too many up my way. I have wondered about it though.
    Hi Sammy ....... If you require floorpans for your P1800, contact Olof at " Vintage Import Parts" located in Vancouver.

    I'm currently doing a resto on my PV544 and rec'd. excellent quality panels shipped to Winnipeg.


    Volvo PV544

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Northern California
    Posts
    186

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Sammy View Post
    I have another question. What guage sheet metal should i use? Is there any where that sells ribbed steel like an original floor pan?? I am on a tight budget right now so i don't want to be ordering $100 REPLACEMENT pans which i will have to cut anyway. Sorry i keep asking questions and no showing of the actual work. My camera is getting fixed righ now but when its back i will show pics.

    Thanks in advance for any input.
    Pictures are great as well.
    The ribs in the new sheet metal can be made with a tool called a bead roller. If you only need it for one job, it would be too costly to buy one. Any sheet metal shop could run a few beads for you.

    I bought a bead roller a while back and it's amazing how easy they are to operate and what a neat job they do.

    For pictures, go to Google Images and use keywords, "Bead roller floor pans". You will see hundreds of pictures and examples of how they operate.

    Good luck.
    Miller Syncrowave 200
    Milermatic 252
    Lincoln AC/DC "Tombstone"

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    8

    Default

    I have actually had good results butt welding floor panels. It is a lot of work but the end result is great when you can't even tell that a floor was ever done on a car. I am no body guy but in working at a speed shop building hot rods I have came across a few cars that needed floors done. One thing that is worth its weight in gold is a spot weld drill bit! It saves a lot of work in peeling the old floor off of the floor supports and doesn't leave unneeded holes like a regular drill bit would.

    As for welding it, I have never had much luck running beads. I find it a lot easier and less risk of burn through/warping when just doing a bunch of start/stop tacks in one place then moving to another corner. Use a body hammer to work the metal into place as you weld to get the edges lined up nice.

    I have a picture of an old floor cut out and a new floor fitted on a 67 camaro I did like this but I am having trouble finding the finished pic. I will try to dig it up, but you couldn't tell a floor was done until you looked at it REALLY close and that was before high build primer and paint. I have never tried that hammer/dolly the welds trick mainly because it was always just me doing the work but it sounds like an awesome idea if you have two people. God knows I would have saved a ton of time, consumables and clean up from metal dust doing that instead of grinding the welds flush.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    8

    Default

    Another thing that helps is heat, weight and burn proof shoes (j/k...sort of) for pushing the new floor down and making it contour correctly to the floor supports. I melted my shoes quite a bit stepping down on a floor I heated with a torch to push down and meet the floor support to spot weld it. Almost considered welding up sheet metal toe pieces lol

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