How about a little metal surgery...

[Daniel]

I thought some of you guys would enjoy seeing this. This is the boom from a loader that the cylinder got changed for a more powerfull one so it can handle a bigger grab arms system. The guy pick up a big load of trees and dragged them and snap.

First look at the hurting piece of machinery

[Daniel]

A little cut in here and there, then grind paint and inside mill scale of places where the backing will be tacked on. I'm going to have to add a 17 inches boxed piece to replace the mangled steel I cut off the boom. That's what I got done so far. Tommorow is another day.
I'll keep you guys post as I go along if your interested to see the end.

[Daniel]

There's a few more.

[Jim-TX]

Looks like a nice project you can make a few $$$$ off of. I can't believe how some people treat equipment. Thanks for the pics.

[Daniel]

Things we do for money,

[JonnyTIG]

I like the work you've shown so far.. Just a suggestion though you may have this in mind already.

After the box section is welded in, I'd remove the hydraullic anchor and cut the fish plate back a few inches, then install a longer fish plate to cover the joint a few inches past the weld beside the anchor. Reinstall the anchor and she's back in service.

Just my 2 cents.

Jonny

[walker]

Hey JohnnyTIG, how would you remove the fish plate? Arc gouge? Or would it be easier to remove the section of plate it is on and reskin an extra foot then weld the fish plate back on. Also, are these booms just a-36?

[Daniel]

Air arc the anchor wouldn't be easier as the inside has a fishplate and partition walls as well. And yes Walker it is mild steel.
I'll take a few picks of it tomorrow from the inside.
Hey Jonny, I konw what you mean by taking the cylinder anchor off.
I'll talk to the owner tomorrow about it.
But he seems happy about putting a fish plate over top both cross weld one side as a v shape and the other tying in with the inside of the end v of the cylinder anchor, I will be fish plating both side as well.
You can see the drawing of the fishplate on the tird picture.I wont bother with the bottom shouldn't need it.
It actually wouldn't take that long to take the cylinder anchor off though.
We'll see what he says.
Thanks for the tip, very good idea

[davinci2010]

If the owner isn't the operator; Is the operator on the business end of a shovel now?

[Portable Welder]

Daniel, If I were you I would put some plates om the inside of the boom extending at least 8" eather side of the crack, I would then take torch cut a groove length wise or parallel to the boom and plug weld the plate.

Note, Theres more pressure being applied to the top and bottom of the boom so thats where you want your fish plates.

I would use ( 4 ) 1" x 4" flat bar extending 8" - 12" past the crack with a 3/4" groove cut length wise so you can plug weld it.

2 plates welded to the top corners and 2 plates welded to the bottom corners.

I would then install the backers as you've done between the flat bars that run the length of the boom.

I know its more common to see the heavy fish plates on the sides of the boom, butt you actualy get more strength when putting fish plates on the top and bottom flange of the boom.

Other than where you splice the new section of boom in, Try to minimize welding across the boom.

Good luck.