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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    612

    Default

    Must be an F-3. The F-4 is still in the prototype stage, or at least it still was in Feb. The rep. at the booth said the F-4 is designed to compete with the 1471 pro mod set-ups.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    OCEANSIDE, CA
    Posts
    123

    Default

    When I first looked at the pic I was thinking "has this pic been photochopped?" That thing is huge
    DYNASTY 200SD
    COOLMATE 1
    MM140AS
    SPOOLMATE 100
    SPECTRUM 625 X-TREME
    SPECTRUM 125C

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    11

    Default

    Hi eddiejr79
    What class do you intend to run as the specs for the alcohol class and Top Fuel class as well as the fast bracket classes have different standards that must be met. I agree that you should have top notch TIG welding skills before you attempt to weld this but those skills are obtainable through practice. The jig is a very important part of this project. My brother and I made our jig for this very purpose. We spent around 80-100 hours to make our jig perfect. I have also spent many hours refining it for our use. The jig is something you can fabricate while you are working on your TIG skills as it can be MIG welded.
    Don't give up if this is your dream.

    As for buying an already running car be careful. Most alcohol and fuel cars out there are pretty well used up. They only last so many runs and are worn out. One other thing you can look for is a car that the front half is damaged and bent. You can do what we call "Front half" the chassis from the rear motorplate forward as the rear section is much stronger and harder to bend. You still have to make sure that it has not been "tweaked" and meets the latest SFI specifications for the class you intend to run. Good Luck, Rascal

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    3

    Default Thank you Rascal

    Thank you, My intentions were to run it as a bracket car for starters. I see your idea about the front half, I have come across alot of those and thought about it but figured it may not be worth it. Then I thought of the worn out however the flexing takes place fromt he motor plate forward doesnt it? I did come across one for cheap that needed the front half. I should have grabbed it but I was afraid to. I dont have a big budget so I have to make wise decisions. Thanks again.

  5. #15

    Default Chassis Welding & Jig Fab

    I taught myself how to weld so I could go racing. After building dozens of cars, and being involved in several high-speed crashes I have never broken a weld. The trick is to practice a bunch before you get started, do some destructive testing on your samples, make every connection a perfect fit, and be sure to have enough heat to get ample penetration.

    As for the JIG, I have built a few, a 1" steel plate is the best but costs like crazy. I built a few others that were 8" I beam directly under the main frame of the chassis. Just make sure the top of both beams are in the same plane. Us a laser level before and after welding.

    Scott
    www.welders360.com

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