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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
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    2,949

    Lightbulb

    Quote Originally Posted by duaneb55 View Post
    Actually, the earlier Bobcats had 3 output studs too. I have a 225G 'parts' unit with the 3 studs and a three years newer 225G Plus working unit with only 2 and a CV setting on the process selector switch.
    I pulled up the owner's manual before I posted. I knew the newer Bobcats only had 2 lugs, sounded like his was the older version.
    "Bonne journe'e mes amis"

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
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    South Dakota
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    19

    Default

    here's what I have:
    it's a mid 90's model bobcat225g plus(onan engine) and a 8vs suitcase feeder
    I have the positve(or electrode) hooked to the feeder
    I have the negative(work clamp) hooked to the work(steel to be welded)
    I have the small negative clamp from the feeder hooked to the work
    the process switch which has -wire, +wire, -dc, +dc, and ac set to -wire
    the coarse amperage set to the wire setting which is 17-28 volts
    the fine adjustment cranked up to 10
    I am using .035 solid wire(always kept in a drier)
    there is a hi lo switch for the feed speed that is set to low
    the wire speed is rated as a percent and is set to 50
    the cv/cc switch on the feeder set to cv
    using straight co2 set at 20cfh
    25ft no. 2 negative cable
    50ft no. 2 positive cable
    welding 3/16 to 1/4 mild steel

    funny how you can go set all that and not even think about it but it's hard to remember it when your writing it down.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    National City CA
    Posts
    1,086

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by flatbroke View Post
    here's what I have:
    it's a mid 90's model bobcat225g plus(onan engine) and a 8vs suitcase feeder
    I have the positve(or electrode) hooked to the feeder
    I have the negative(work clamp) hooked to the work(steel to be welded)
    I have the small negative clamp from the feeder hooked to the work
    the process switch which has -wire, +wire, -dc, +dc, and ac set to -wire
    the coarse amperage set to the wire setting which is 17-28 volts
    the fine adjustment cranked up to 10
    I am using .035 solid wire(always kept in a drier)
    there is a hi lo switch for the feed speed that is set to low
    the wire speed is rated as a percent and is set to 50
    the cv/cc switch on the feeder set to cv
    using straight co2 set at 20cfh
    25ft no. 2 negative cable
    50ft no. 2 positive cable
    welding 3/16 to 1/4 mild steel

    funny how you can go set all that and not even think about it but it's hard to remember it when your writing it down.

    It's connected correctly But Your wire speed is not set correctly. set to low and 50% thats about 175 IPM. way to low. I'd Set it to the hi range and dial it in from there. But If your voltage setting is correct you're running way to hot. Voltage should be around 18-22 volts and wire feed should be around 350 to 450 depending on the volts. which would be about 50% on High

    Crank up the wire feed until it bottoms out in the puddle then back it off a bit

    And don't worry about trying to remember all this stuff it will become like second nature to you.

    But a handy little gadget it the miller weld calculators
    Last edited by kcstott; 04-11-2010 at 02:22 PM.
    Miller Syncrowave 200 W/Radiator 1A & water cooled torch
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  4. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    South Dakota
    Posts
    19

    Default

    kcstott....I tried the wire speed just about every position there is....see the problem is that it doesn't puddle...just makes a turd on top of the steel. I don't really understand the coarse adjustment. it has 4 settings (1) V17-28 that is colored blue the other three are colored gray (2) A50-100 (3) A70-150 (4) A85-225 and the fine adjustment is V/A 1-10....so is there only one setting for wirefeed?
    Last edited by flatbroke; 04-11-2010 at 02:57 PM.

  5. #15
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    Oct 2007
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    2,949

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by flatbroke View Post
    kcstott....I tried the wire speed just about every position there is....see the problem is that it doesn't puddle...just makes a turd on top of the steel. I don't really understand the coarse adjustment. it has 4 settings (1) V17-28 that is colored blue the other three are colored gray (2) A50-100 (3) A70-150 (4) A85-225 and the fine adjustment is V/A 1-10....so is there only one setting for wirefeed?
    Running solid wire, you should have it set to "wire +"

    Other than that, KC's correct about the volts/WFS.

    22 Volts/ 320-340 IPM (50% of the hi side)

    Keep us posted.
    "Bonne journe'e mes amis"

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    National City CA
    Posts
    1,086

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by flatbroke View Post
    kcstott....I tried the wire speed just about every position there is....see the problem is that it doesn't puddle...just makes a turd on top of the steel. I don't really understand the coarse adjustment. it has 4 settings (1) V17-28 that is colored blue the other three are colored gray (2) A50-100 (3) A70-150 (4) A85-225 and the fine adjustment is V/A 1-10....so is there only one setting for wirefeed?
    Yep that sounds right. Although the new Bobcat 225 has a high and low range on the course side and zero to ten on the fine.

    Just re read your settings and your polarity is wrong It needs to be set to +wire or DCEP reverse polarity for solid mig wire. You use DCEN for flux core or inner shield wire. That would be the first thing I would change.

    Then try these settings.
    Set the fine adjustment to about 7 to 8 this should get you at or near 24 volts.
    Then on the feeder set the Hi Low switch to HI and dial the feed knob to about 50% Leave the CC/CV switch set to CV

    And give that a try and keep the distance from the contact tip to work at about 3/4" or a little less. If the wire stubs as in it just hits the material, sparks and melts away slowly turn the wire speed down. If the wire burns back to the tip and melt off turn the wire speed up.

    Keep in mind Mig welding is not like stick welding where you can make wide swings of the dial and you only foul things up a little bit.

    If you start making huge adjustments to the voltage or the wire speed it wont take much to set the machine where they wont weld.

    Like I said set the machine for about 24 volts and play with the wire speed only. Make one small adjustment at a time. About 10% till you get that bacon frying sound. Then you'll need some experience to get it dialed in just right.

    A wide flat puddle is to much voltage or to little wire feed speed and a narrow tall puddle is to little voltage or too much wire. And keep this in mind too In stick welding you could only burn so much rod at a given amperage range. and you could jack with the heat all over the place and not really foul things up to bad. Well with wire feed you have a window where the machine will produce a weld but you can be using to much or to little wire or to much or to little voltage and it will look somewhat normal. This is what makes Mig welding a bit of a pain. It's all in the settings, after that you could have a four year old kid doing the welding just point and shoot.
    Well it's not that easy but easier then stick and a far cry from tig.

    Give that a shot and let us know
    Miller Syncrowave 200 W/Radiator 1A & water cooled torch
    Millermatic 252 on the wish list
    Bridgeport Mill W/ 2 axis CNC control
    South bend lathe 10LX40
    K.O. Lee surface grinder 6X18
    Over 20 years as a Machinist Toolmaker
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    Auto shades are for rookies
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  7. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    South Dakota
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    Default

    well I'm just an idiot....I very seldom ever use fluxcore wire for anything so I never change the polarity and just assumed it was electrode positive for solid wire. should be electrode positve for fluxcore wire electrode negative for solid wire with gas.... it lays down a beautiful bead now!!
    fine adjust heat set at 8 wire speed on high and set at 40(didn't weld much with it need some fine tuning yet)...thanks everyone for the help and the great advice!!!

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Orange, TX
    Posts
    1,200

    Default

    flatbroke,

    It IS EP for solid wire with gas and EN for flux core.

    Where are you changing polarity? At the selector switch, output studs or both?
    MM200 w/spot controller and Spoolmatic 1
    Syncrowave 180 SD
    Bobcat 225G Plus LPG/NG w/14-pin*
    *Homemade Suitcase Wire Feeder
    *HF-251D-1
    *WC-1S & Spoolmatic 1
    PakMaster 100XL
    Marquette "Star Jet" 21-110

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    National City CA
    Posts
    1,086

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by flatbroke View Post
    well I'm just an idiot....I very seldom ever use fluxcore wire for anything so I never change the polarity and just assumed it was electrode positive for solid wire. should be electrode positve for fluxcore wire electrode negative for solid wire with gas.... it lays down a beautiful bead now!!
    fine adjust heat set at 8 wire speed on high and set at 40(didn't weld much with it need some fine tuning yet)...thanks everyone for the help and the great advice!!!
    Nop Electrode + Positive for solid wire

    Electrode - Negative for flux core.

    But either way glad you got it running.

    Play with the wire feed and the volts a little at a time and watch the change in arc characteristics. Then you'll know how to dial it in later.

    Do yourself a favor though get use to running one type of wire and leave it be then the settings will be on the top of your head. Ask me why. I dare you Been there myself and asked the same questions about two years ago here and got good help too.

    You will need a flux core wire for when it gets windy and I'd recommend
    Lincoln NR 212. It's a great all purpose welding wire that is very forgiving to settings it's just not very forgiving to the pocket book. Last spool I bought was $130 for a 25 pound spool. But it welded nearly as well as solid wire in a shop with C25. It welds that clean.

    Oh and on the back of my wire feeder is a label that says
    DCEP for solid wire and shielding gas
    DCEN for flux core.

    Just so I don't have to rely on memory to hook it up.
    Miller Syncrowave 200 W/Radiator 1A & water cooled torch
    Millermatic 252 on the wish list
    Bridgeport Mill W/ 2 axis CNC control
    South bend lathe 10LX40
    K.O. Lee surface grinder 6X18
    Over 20 years as a Machinist Toolmaker
    A TWO CAR garage full of tools and a fridge full of beer
    Auto shades are for rookies
    www.KLStottlemyer.com

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    South Dakota
    Posts
    19

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by duaneb55 View Post
    flatbroke,

    It IS EP for solid wire with gas and EN for flux core.

    Where are you changing polarity? At the selector switch, output studs or both?
    I use the process selector switch....it has wire EN, wire EP, DC stick/tig EN, DC stick/tig EP, and AC.... the wire positions would the CV power source and the stick/tig would be the CC power source. I bought both the bobcat and the feeder used so some of the warning and instruction labels are missing. I should have known this cause I use to change from solid wire to fluxcored once and awhile on my little 110v lincoln.
    Bobcat225g plus
    8VS suitcase feeder
    Syncrowave SD180
    Miller CP250-TS S-52A Feeder
    Lincoln SP100 mig
    14x40 engine lathe
    bridgeport mill
    torch, plasma cutter, grinders, drills, and all that stuff

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