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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    4

    Default Pipe fence rail spacing jigs???

    I am building a 2 3/8" post and cap rail fence. It will have 4 lower rails of 1" sucker rod. Anyone have any good ideas or photos of jigs they have built to keep their rail spacing even distance from top rail? Needless to say I have a lot of fence to build and am looking for a faster way to place my rails , other than measuring out each onc at each post. I hope this makes sense! Thanks in advance!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Salem ,Ohio
    Posts
    3,919

    Cool

    Cope out a 2x4 from wood that will sit on the bottom rail and hold the top one...Bob
    Bob Wright, Grandson of Tee Nee Boat Trailer Founder
    Metal Master Fab Salem, Oh 44460
    Birthplace of the Silver & Deming Drill
    1999 MM185 w/185 Spoolgun,1986 Thunderbolt AC/DC
    Spool Gun conversion. How To Do It. Below.
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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Alberta
    Posts
    37

    Default

    aa has the simplest solution. You could also make a jig out of angle iron or channel that the verticals can sit in with notches for where your horizontals get welded..

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    2,890

    Default

    Would a long S Hook work?

    never built fence, probably never will
    Ed Conley
    http://www.screamingbroccoli.net/
    MM252
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  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Abilene, Texas
    Posts
    639

    Default

    After you put the top pipe on, just cut some pieces of wood (1x2 will work) the correct length to space the rods. Sandwich them between the rod and the top pipe (or rod above the one you are installing) to get the spacing the same. Let me give you a tip from someone who has done that type of fence. Use 3 or 4 spacers spread out on the rod you are about to weld into place. If you only use a spacer next to the post, the sucker rod will sag and not be in line when you weld it. You will end up welding the rod to the pipe at an angle. You need to have the entire rod pretty close to where it's going to weld before you weld any of it. Also, on sucker rod use 7018 if you want it to stay.
    Jim

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    13

    Default

    I agree with Jim, I would also recommend 1/4" cable clips over the rod if there is going to be much pressure from livestock. But, as Jim said, support the rod in several places before welding, or you will have alot of sagging, especially in upright spacings of 8' or more.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    313

    Default

    I've got some jigs that I use for succor rod spacing between posts. They're made out of quarter inch square stock. The top is formed to hang on the top rail, think of a clothes hanger. Then the rod hangs down centerline between the posts. I have tabs welded to hold the bars in place. I have six of these so I can set up three spans at a time.

    As for sag, I don't get it. In fact if anything my rods sag up. Your sag is going to be in the direction of where your weld stops. So if you do like I do and weld vertical up your last point of contact is on top and your sag will be up if at all. Another thing is I cut my rods a quarter of an inch short so I have an eighth of an inch to fill at each end. One of the biggest sources of sag is rods too long forced into place before welding.

    Keep in mind that succor rod is like drill stem in that it is high carbon steel. It's often heavily magnetized and can be a bear to start an arc. It's also easy to make a weld that will crystalize and break when welding high carbon steel like you have in drill stem or succor rod.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Abilene, Texas
    Posts
    639

    Default

    I've don't weld sucker rods end to end with square (straight) ends. I observed how an old time welder did it and I do the same. I guess that it's called a lap joint. Where the ends come together, I cut 1/2 way thru the rod about 2" from the end. I do the same thing on the joining rod. When placed together, I clamp the laps together and weld with 7018. I've not had one break doing it this way. When welded on both top and bottom the weld is over 4" long instead of just the ends of the rod.

    Harv, where are you talking about where you weld sucker rods vertically up? I'm thinking about fences where they are laid along the side of the posts so that the welds are basically flat or overhead if a person welds the under side also.
    Jim

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    313

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Jim-TX View Post
    I've don't weld sucker rods end to end with square (straight) ends. I observed how an old time welder did it and I do the same. I guess that it's called a lap joint. Where the ends come together, I cut 1/2 way thru the rod about 2" from the end. I do the same thing on the joining rod. When placed together, I clamp the laps together and weld with 7018. I've not had one break doing it this way. When welded on both top and bottom the weld is over 4" long instead of just the ends of the rod.

    Harv, where are you talking about where you weld sucker rods vertically up? I'm thinking about fences where they are laid along the side of the posts so that the welds are basically flat or overhead if a person welds the under side also.
    That's where you weld the rods between the posts instead of on the face of the posts.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Lodi, CA
    Posts
    1,288

    Default

    Simple and fast .... these were made for a pipe fence, top rail, then in-between rails all the way down. I'm sure any fabricator worth his weight, can take this idea and run with it.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Obviously, I'm just a hack-artist, you shouldn't be listening to anything I say .....

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