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  1. #11
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Grande Prairie, Alberta Canada
    Posts
    729

    Default

    T-1, T-100, QT (Quenched and Tempered) 100 ... Same - Same just different terminology depending on what your local steel shop calls it.

    Main rails should be QT-100.

    Cross members will be "Mild" Steel, and should be "Wide Flange" available at just about any steel supplier.

    I pre-heat rails, then weld out with Hobart Fabco110 (Dual Shield Flux Core) or with 110-18 to match the characteristics of the stronger of the 2 metals, which is the QT-100.

    Other than the way the damage was caused, it is a pretty common, and straight forward repair.

    Have a Good Night.
    Later,
    Jason

    Professional Spark Generator by Trade.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    CA, United States
    Posts
    1

    Default

    Hello shade. Do you have any picture? I think your trailers were grossly over loaded, and abused. Trailers are known to have the capacity to easily carry a heavy or any other vehicle.
    Read information available about Heavy Hauling!

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Milan Michigan
    Posts
    1,691

    Default

    I agree with Black Wolf, You want to use the stronger rod.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    2,837

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Portable Welder View Post
    I agree with Black Wolf, You want to use the stronger rod.
    Old thread brought back to life by the two previous Spammer post

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  5. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Little Rock
    Posts
    41

    Default Heavy Haul Trailer

    This discussion makes me recall my high school days forty years ago growing up on a cotton farm.

    We ran John Deere row crop tricycle tractors, mainly 70, 720 & 730's. The front wheel forks were subjected to a lot of abuse and tended to crack between the four 1/2" bolt holes where the fork was attached to the bottom of the steering sector shaft.

    I think these forks were made with the T1 steel being discussed.

    The repair that worked or took the longest to break again was to drill the crack ends, grind out the cracks and heat the bolt hole area as best we could with a multi tip rosette oxy-acetylene torch and weld with a "low hydrogen" rod. E-?????.

    My question is what is / was this LH rod, what is its classification code and would it be useful for this type of repair of T1?

  6. #16

    Default

    probably 10018 or 11018

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    New York
    Posts
    1

    Default Hi

    Thank you so much for letting as know this one. I got a lots of information about Heavy haul trailer. So I'm hoping that you can post more here. Keep on posting guys

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    North Central Indiana
    Posts
    782

    Default

    If you can get a serial number off of a trailer or farm equipment you may be able to find out what steel they used and what rod to use to repair it by calling the company who made it.
    Last edited by tackit; 04-18-2013 at 08:05 AM. Reason: old thread correction

  9. #19
    turbo38t Guest

    Default

    Pretty sure I used 8018 when I did a Roger's lowboy trailer....replaced the lower deck beam flange....

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Wa
    Posts
    539

    Default

    Guys this thread is over 3 years old. Pretty sure it's worked out by now...

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