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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
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    Southern California
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    Default Newbie Introduction!

    Hi, my name is Ryan and i'd like to introduce myself! I'm 26 and I live in Southern California and i'm pretty new to welding and I love it! I'm enrolled in 3 welding classes at my local community college. I have a class in SMAW, GTAW, and a introduction one that covers OFW,GMAW,FCAW,SMAW & GTAW. I'd like to make welding a career and appreciate any advice I can get. I also just bought my first welder today, a Dynasty 200SD! So I think i'm off to a good start.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    1,508

    Default

    The purchase of a new Dynasty 200 should be enough motivation to keep you going when you get so frustrated you’ll want to pull your hair out! When you get to that point, (and you will) just pull out the receipt to that Dynasty, you’ll get back under that helmet!
    Caution!
    These are "my" views based only on “my” experiences in “my” little bitty world.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Southern California
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    Default

    LoL That's great advice! Tig welding is proving frustraing as well as E6010 vertical up haha

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Cambridge, MA
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    213

    Default

    what are your issues with e6010 uphand?
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  5. #5
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    Mar 2010
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    Southern California
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    Default

    Well it's my second day in lab with the E6010 vertical up, and i've tried afew different ways of whipping the electrode but i'm having issues with undercut on my tee-joint. It seems if I wait to let the puddle fill up the weld starts to sag down and when I go fast enough to get it flat it dosen't cover enough. I'm using a straight whip with the electrode pointed up at a slight angle. Hope that wasen't confusing lol

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Cambridge, MA
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    Default

    Have you tried more of a "c" (or in this case a "u") pattern? holding the sides slightly longer then through the middle, while comming slightly back into the puddle? i know thats what we usually do on a vertical down progression.

    personally i find 6010 a little easier to run with an open root and groove, then you just need to keyhole it.

    hope it helps, and if im wrong i'm sorry and i'm sure people wil tell me so!
    American By Birth, Union by Choice!

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  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
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    1,508

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ryno! View Post
    i'm having issues with undercut on my tee-joint.
    What brand of 6010 are you using?
    Maybe you’re running a little to hot, and remember arc length is very important!
    Have you played with the Dig option on your 200 yet? I like to run 6010 with about 95% Dig. I like how it stacks at 95%. 7018 out of position I run 100% on the Dig.
    Caution!
    These are "my" views based only on “my” experiences in “my” little bitty world.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    2,949

    Default 3f-6010

    Quote Originally Posted by Ryno! View Post
    Well it's my second day in lab with the E6010 vertical up, and i've tried afew different ways of whipping the electrode but i'm having issues with undercut on my tee-joint. It seems if I wait to let the puddle fill up the weld starts to sag down and when I go fast enough to get it flat it dosen't cover enough. I'm using a straight whip with the electrode pointed up at a slight angle. Hope that wasen't confusing lol
    1/8" 6010's (probably 5P's or 5P+) run good between 90-100 amps, vertical up on 3/16" and thicker material.

    Your first pass will generally tend to be "humped" in the middle, especially when "whipping," due to the nature of the rod. On your second, and subsequent passes try a "box weave" and finish with a "straight weave" on the final pass.

    If you still experience excessive undercut, reduce current, travel speed, or possibly electrode size, (in some cases), until the puddle is manageable. Also, change the electrode angle so the arc force holds the metal in the corners, using a uniform speed, and avoid excessive weaving.

    DIG settings enhance the arc, and prevent it from "snubbing out" and is especially useful when doing open root pipe.

    Remember, "stick" machines are Constant Current. As you move the rod closer to the work, the voltage drops, and moving it further away, increases the voltage. Voltage is electrical pressure, and does not move.

    The DialArc is an excellent "droop curve" transformer machine. You will notice a difference when you run your Dynasty, as inverter machine arc characteristics and volt/amp curves are "flatter."

    It's good to run the various machines, so you know what to expect. If you get the chance to practice with a good engine drive, you'll also notice a difference there as well.

    My Maxstar 150, Sync 200 and Trailblazer, all have different "personalities."

    Good luck with your endeavors, and keep us posted of your progress. Always good to see those who are eager and enthusiastic to learn the "trade."
    Last edited by davedarragh; 03-22-2010 at 09:35 AM.
    "Bonne journe'e mes amis"

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Las Vegas
    Posts
    19

    Default

    I think its about time i introduce myself as well. Hello, im Kayla! Im 17 living in Las Vegas, NV. I attend Southeast Career Tech Academy (a high school) for welding, earning 13 college credits for welding in the process :]. I learn all the basics i guess you could say, and i hope to make this a career when i graduate and finish college. Im always open for ideas and advice. Thankss :]
    Lala

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    21

    Default

    Hi Kayla Yea I concur on the bad rod angle I had 2 of my teachers tell me the same thing, so hopefully tomorrow will be the day lol Also passed my Tee and Lap joints in my tig class tonight so that was sweet!

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