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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    144

    Default Dynasty pulse & sheetmetal joint

    For a commissioned art piece, im wanting to join together the thin sheetmetal of three 70's-80's chevy truck hoods to create a large single surface. Each piece will be approx 48x35 for a total size of 48"x105"

    Im not going to be filling in and painting this when im done so MIG, grind & bondo ETC are out of the question.

    The seam will be visible when finished and contribute to the industrial look of the piece. The factory paint color will remain in tact, scuffed and clear coated. The seam needs to be small and precision.

    I've got a couple of test pieces prepared and photographed below for you to see. And after reading about TIG machines, it looks like the Dynasty 200 DX's pulse feature could TIG this together and put less heat into the work.

    Are there any experienced Dynasty operators that could give me an idea of how well that machine and feature would work on joining this metal and not warp it all to ****.

    Thanks for any input.

    Joel



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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Deltaville, VA
    Posts
    2,239

    Default

    Interesting.

    Haven't tried that.

    Assuming you've got some scrap to work with, here's a couple of suggestions to try.

    Use 1/16" tungsten taken to a sharp point.
    12-15 CFH gas flow
    Set amps at 35 or so. You'll have to play with this as to how fast you travel.
    PPS 200
    Peak 70%
    Background 30%

    I'd use .035 mig wire straightened. Keep the filler in the leading edge of the puddle (no dipping) and move as fast as the puddle allows. Amps/travel speed will be what you feel comfortable with.

    An aluminum backing bar (1/4" x 2-3") under the seam will help to pull the heat away and reduce warpage.
    Syncrowave 250 DX Tigrunner
    Dynasty 200 DX
    Miller XMT 304 w/714D Feeder & Optima Control
    Miller MM 251 w/Q300 & 30A SG
    Hobart HH187
    Dialarc 250 AC/DC
    Hypertherm PM 600 & 1250
    Wilton 7"x12" bandsaw
    PC Dry Cut Saw, Dewalt Chop Saw
    Milwaukee 8" Metal Cut Saw, Milwaukee Portaband.
    Thermco and Smith (2) Gas Mixers
    More grinders than hands

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    San Diego
    Posts
    375

    Default What he said.

    SundownIII has got it. At least, that's where I would start.

    Your tests look fine to me. Some distortion is to be expected, as you look like your trying to do long, continuous runs. Any curvature inherent to the panels should work in your favour to keep them from warping.

    Zip it up!
    Maxstar 200DX
    Maxstar 300DX
    Dynasty 200DX
    Passport
    Spectrum 701
    LMSW-52 spot welder

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    dallas,tx
    Posts
    207

    Default

    Joel,

    I can't help you with setting etc. But holler if you need a hand at all

    Scott
    Miller 350P
    Miller Econotig
    Milwaukee Dry saw
    Evolution Dry saw (for sale)
    Scotchman 350 cold saw
    7x12 bandsaw
    1910 ATW 14 x 72 lathe
    fridge full of adult beverages
    Sirius radio

    www.snpequipment.com
    callouses and burns a plenty

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    4

    Default splicing three hoods

    this is going to be a very difficult task because when you weld three peices of csheetmetal together they tend to warp, to combat warpage you have to realease the stresses, you are better off starting from scratch and copying the design to a single peice of steel, or one large one and the front, as their is alot of work o get this right.When we had a alot of hail damaged vehicles in to be fixed I had to reapir a half hour dent in a small import vehicle, I burnt the hile through the hood with the uni-spotter, and it took about another 4 hours to normalize and bondo up the dent, to the point to where it could hardly be noticed, it is very difficult to work on hoods.

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