Looking for some advice/pointers..

[Cornerstone]

Before trying to cap with one pass you need to check the WPS to see what the maximum bead width allowed is. Most of the time its not a matter of if you can or cannot carry that much metal because the WPS doesnt allow it.

Most WPS's have a 5/8 max bead width for SMAW.

I agree with above posts that your travel speed on the root pass is to slow, and you need to have the least amount of starts and stops as possible. As for the cap, it seems like your having trouble keeping your beads on a straight line, you could always grind a line to follow.

Just keep practicing and you will get it.

Yep! I agree. And I use the "grinding a line" technique always.

[davinci2010]

Gravity is killing you right now. It looks like most of the problems with your cap are when you are in the near vertical postion. Remember your puddle is a liquid and you will have to adjust your travel speed and your weave as you move more and more vertically. Also remember as you get into a near overhead or overhead position to close up your gap between your electrode and the puddle as surface tension is the only thing keeping that weld puddle on the work instead of the floor. You almost have to push the puddle with the tip of your rod. If it gets too hot and trys to burn through pull your arc length longer for a split second to freeze the puddle then resume. Also make sure when you do stop to fill your crater.

[DamageInc537]

Before trying to cap with one pass you need to check the WPS to see what the maximum bead width allowed is. Most of the time its not a matter of if you can or cannot carry that much metal because the WPS doesnt allow it.

Most WPS's have a 5/8 max bead width for SMAW.

I agree with above posts that your travel speed on the root pass is to slow, and you need to have the least amount of starts and stops as possible. As for the cap, it seems like your having trouble keeping your beads on a straight line, you could always grind a line to follow.

Just keep practicing and you will get it.

I can grind a line to follow on my practice cupons but noy on the test. I ran it pretty well today, i'll post some pics in a bit. I adjusted the height on the stand so it ws a little lower and i slowed my self down and now i am just a little too flat on the top, but i think it more of a matter of me going too fast for the top. I also took a little more time inbetween passes and forced myself to relax and to refocus. seemed to help

[enlpck]

I've seen worse caps.

You have the right idea with relax. You need a steady progression to maintain consistant fill. The other thing a lot of guys miss is the heat. The coupon is small. It gets hot. The puddle ends up more fluid and harder to control.

If a grinder is permitted, I tell guys to take a little time between passes to take a good look after removing slag, and clean up with the grinder. Smooth it out, make sure there is no undercut to chase, and be sure there is a clean line to follow. I usually use a 4.5" with a hard wheel that has the edge worn down so I can run it along and leave a perfect, smooth U for the next pass. Doesn't usually take much. The time this takes also helps keep the heat down. Keep it below 500F on the fill and cover, preferably below 400F (when the pass is done, check the temp about an inch from the bead)

Another tip is start and finish past center. Start about 5 to 10 degrees before the bottom and run about 5 to 10 degrees past the top, both ways. This gives a little overlap. Clean the starts and stops from the first side with a grinder before starting the other side. On this pipe, 10 degrees is about 3/8" at the OD

Also, remember gravity. As you progress up, the direction the puddle pulls changes, but is always generally toward the lower piece. You might try pushing away from the lower piece a little bit, especially on the cap, and letting gravity help.

Also, don't forget to hold at the stop to let it fill. It looks like you started slow, rushed up at the end, and broke off, rather than waiting for the crater to fill.

The root needs work. You are pushing too much through.

[Sonora Iron]

When doing the root I feel more comfortable with a 3/32-inch gap, and a 3/32-inch land when running 1/8-inch 6010.
I think these are 3-inch or maybe 3 1/2-inch pipe. I got to get this computer organized!

[davinci2010]

Good call enlpck; Starting and stopping on center will make things much harder on you. You're right, relax and take your time. When you're making the passes from about the 3:00 to the 9:00 positions sometimes the slag dropout can fool your eyes and it's hard to focus on the puddle. If this happens go back to technique and trust your eyes second. Try this on a horizontal piece like flat plate. Put your hood on and start and arc and get it established, then close your eyes and run a straight bead (with a weave pattern , just like the cap.) When you are getting consistent acceptable results, you've got technique down pat.

[DamageInc537]

sorry for the delayed post on the picture, i ended up having to go to hosp last night for seever dehydration and a nasty stomach bug.. fun time let me tell you! here are the pics of the last coupon i ran yesterday. like i said i slowed myself down and i think it came out quite a bit better. these pics have some undercut at the top but i was able to run another stringer after and it was take care of. I like to think i was having a Yogi Berra type day on monday, you know where half of welding is 80% mental.

right to left
bottom
left to right
top

[davinci2010]

Lookin much better! Hope your looking much better after the night you had.

[pumahvac]

you are getting close. i got my 21 about 4 yrs. ago. one of the happiest days of my life passing that bad boy. i think you need to move faster on root, close down gap. i used one hot pass, two fill, and three caps. i don't remember changing heat once set up. i was taught that by fourth tack heat should be dialed in. don't even think of 1/8" for cap (as suggested). your second set of pics looks much better. on test day, don't drink too much coffee. take your time. relax. also remember that almost everyone has to make repairs (grind outs), except on caps of course. lastly, remember to take suggestions on fourms with a grain of salt. some are good, some not so much. no offence to tryagn5, but you were way off on this one. good luck, and keep us informed. i'm 597 by the way. i'm working on ms tig, ss tig, and, ss stick now.

[DamageInc537]

puma thanks for the advice! are you working on 22 and 41 now? i think thats where i want to go next. least the 22 which is the same test as what im on now, but with a tig root. if i can get that then i will jump to the 1. hows the work situation out your way? 597 is in chicago right? unfortunatly since you've taken the 21 the UA has brought some sticter regulations to the test. there is a 3 hour time limit now, and if the atr's or cwi's catch you making a repair you are automatically looked out, no second coupon that day, and i think it's a 60 day wait for a retest now.

Davinci thanks! they look much better, as am I thanks for asking! It has been a LONG 2 days!