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  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by GaryV View Post
    I have the same type saw from tractor supply with the sheet metal legs and small wheels , but I want to make a better stand and add a cutting fluid pan under it , I get tired of setting near it squirting cutting fluid on it .Also I did have a starett blade made for it , and cuts square after a few hours of adjusting trial and error..needs a better blade tracking adjustment. you have to loosen the bolts a touch then tap with a small hammer to adjust..
    Has anyone around here put a cutting fluid pan and pump on theirs yet?
    Gary
    Yep, I did. Here's a pic. I made the pan from 16 gauge because that is what I had. My brake is a little wimpy for that thickness so I ended up bending the lip with a hammer on the anvil. I made the pan too short,it needs to extend beyond the drive wheel to catch all the fluid, I ended up putting a sheet of aluminum to act as a "ramp" to catch the the fluid so it runs back into the pan.
    HPIM1933.jpg
    Larry

    "I feel for the man who can only spell a word one way"......Mark Twain

    Lincoln AC225-S (OLD/Copper Wound)
    Lincoln Weldpac 100
    Miller Matic 180 (auto set)
    Miller Spool gun 100
    Miller Spectrum 375 Extreme
    Victor Super Range II

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Kansas City Metro
    Posts
    387

    Default

    Thanks kmomaha,

    Yes I agree that I need to make places for all the wrench's and allen's that fit the saw, just so that they are right there. I think I will drop by the pawn shop and dig thru there box of misc tools and locate what I want before I make hangers.

    I'm still thinking about some sort of tray but I am almost worried that it will collect metal chips, but maybe an expanded metal bottom would cure that.

    Tonight I picked up two 8"x2" solid tires for the rear and placed 3/4' threaded rod for adjusters on the front. I moved the axle location up on the square tube so to not raise the table height to much. Camera battery died tonight so I will try to post a pic or two tomorrow evening.

    I know it looks top heavy and like it would tip very easy. But I can't believe how stable it is. I have to raise the front legs at least 18" off the ground to even get close to the point where it even gets close to wanting to tip to the rear. Now I don't want to take off dragging it across the front yard but on my rough drive-way does not worry me at all.

    Larwyn, in the pic that you posted there is an orange tool sitting to the left of your saw. Is that one of the 3 legged saw horses that has a vise built to one end? I don't mean to sound like a snoop, but it really raised my curiosity.
    Last edited by tom37; 02-17-2010 at 08:54 PM. Reason: spelling

    Miller 211 A.S. and Spoolmate 100
    Stickmate LX 235 AC / 160 DC.
    Clarke 180 EN Just in case
    Spectrum 375 X-Treme.
    O/A Medium Radnor Torch, Large Victor Torch.
    Milwaukee 14" Chop Saw.
    4 x 6 Horizontal Band Saw.
    Rockworth 80 Gallon 2 Stage 16 SCFM @ 175 PSI , 15 SCFM @ 90 PSI.
    Jackson Passive shade #5 for the plasma.
    I almost forgot the Hobart XVP AD Hood.


    Projects and Misc Albums
    http://picasaweb.google.com/keesfriend Feel Free to Have a Look ( Just keep in mind I am an amateur )

  3. #13

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    Yep, that's the Triton Super Jaws. It is part of my small collection of Australian made Triton tools. I use it all the time for woodworking projects and when working away from the shop whether wood or metal. As far as I know Triton was the first. I know I had mine several years before Rockwell jumped in there and acted like they invented the vise....

    Triton2.JPG
    Larry

    "I feel for the man who can only spell a word one way"......Mark Twain

    Lincoln AC225-S (OLD/Copper Wound)
    Lincoln Weldpac 100
    Miller Matic 180 (auto set)
    Miller Spool gun 100
    Miller Spectrum 375 Extreme
    Victor Super Range II

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Kansas City Metro
    Posts
    387

    Default

    I'm thinking that I want one of the super-jaws. Now I know what to tell Santa I want. .

    Thanks Larwyn.

    Miller 211 A.S. and Spoolmate 100
    Stickmate LX 235 AC / 160 DC.
    Clarke 180 EN Just in case
    Spectrum 375 X-Treme.
    O/A Medium Radnor Torch, Large Victor Torch.
    Milwaukee 14" Chop Saw.
    4 x 6 Horizontal Band Saw.
    Rockworth 80 Gallon 2 Stage 16 SCFM @ 175 PSI , 15 SCFM @ 90 PSI.
    Jackson Passive shade #5 for the plasma.
    I almost forgot the Hobart XVP AD Hood.


    Projects and Misc Albums
    http://picasaweb.google.com/keesfriend Feel Free to Have a Look ( Just keep in mind I am an amateur )

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Northern California
    Posts
    179

    Default

    Tom,

    I like the details you are incorporating and you are definitely giving me ideas to consider when designing my stand / cart.

    At first I thought the design resembled an engine stand and work be a little top heavy. But with the materials you used and the layout, I can see the stability built in.

    Any other updates you do, I would be interested in seeing!

    Thanks again for starting this thread!

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Loomis, California
    Posts
    83

    Default Bandsaw Stand

    Tom,

    I really like your saw stand! I bought one of those saws and the first thing I noticed is how flimsy the base stand was. Every time I move the saw, I wonder when it is going to fall apart or crash to the floor.

    The saw works good for me and sure beats making cuts with a hack saw.

    Your stand and welds look very good to me!

    Thanks for sharing all your work with us!

    Steve

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Kansas City Metro
    Posts
    387

    Default

    I apologize for the poor angle camera shots, it made it hard to actually see what I had going on. Here is a couple at a good angle and also of the repositioned rear wheels and front levelers. I hope these shots clear up my design.

    P.S. I almost had a tragedy tonight. I was experimenting again with the front to rear tip factor, and I was lifting in a quick motion just to test what it would do if someone other then me moved the saw. Well I am pretty sure that I will put the lock pin in the arm of the saw to transport it. The arm itself is close to balance with the weight of the motor, and it tried to jump to the upright position, laughing like a d@mm fool now, I can say that my cheetah like reflexes caught it before it made it all the way up. There is a chance that in the lifted position and the arm fly up, that a person could get out of control and cause the saw to take a spill. But like I said now I put the lock pin in and also wrap the cord over the saw in the down position, just in case I forget the pin and drive crazy.






    Attached Images Attached Images

    Miller 211 A.S. and Spoolmate 100
    Stickmate LX 235 AC / 160 DC.
    Clarke 180 EN Just in case
    Spectrum 375 X-Treme.
    O/A Medium Radnor Torch, Large Victor Torch.
    Milwaukee 14" Chop Saw.
    4 x 6 Horizontal Band Saw.
    Rockworth 80 Gallon 2 Stage 16 SCFM @ 175 PSI , 15 SCFM @ 90 PSI.
    Jackson Passive shade #5 for the plasma.
    I almost forgot the Hobart XVP AD Hood.


    Projects and Misc Albums
    http://picasaweb.google.com/keesfriend Feel Free to Have a Look ( Just keep in mind I am an amateur )

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