Finding breakers for home fuse boxes with ratings above 100Amps is difficult to do.
As I stated in other posts. 30Amp breaker on a my Dialarc is hit or miss. You make lots of trips to the fuse box because of the startup in-rush. Once you got things going your O.K. as long as you keep a short arc. In TIG mode, at full power, I would expect 30Amp draw from the Dialarc. On a 50 Amp breaker, I have zero problems with the dialarc (but as a stick machine I only use smaller sticks - 150Amps max)
Consider using the foot pedal to break the arc. I don't like leave hot leads lying around, so I use the foot pedal as my remote on/off switch. Just turn the HF off!
As for jumping a car on lamp cord, it can be done, but the cord will get so hot it will melt the insulation. If you have a battery that is only weak, not dead, you can get away with it. Recommend you separate the + and - if you try so that when it melts, it doesn't short the + and -. Back in the days of metal bumpers, you could touch bumpers and make 1/2 your connection that way....
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Thread: my Syncrowave 350LX has Trouble
02-11-2010, 11:10 AM #11Senior Member
- Join Date
- Feb 2009
Miller Dynasty 350
Hypertherm PowerMax 1000G3
Miller Multimatic 200 - awesome portable MIG (and stick and TIG)
Miller Maxstar 200DX - portable TIG and stick
02-12-2010, 08:03 AM #12Senior Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2007
Don't know what to tell you if you actually have a "home fuse box".