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  1. #1

    Default help on tig welding

    ok so ive started learning how to weld Tig and i have no problem donig stainless steel and thats what im most dominant in but when it coems to aluminum welding on jsuta plate is easy its jsut connecting two peices together so i was wondering if any one could give me some tips or something that'd b usefull

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    N.C.
    Posts
    362

    Default

    I can't personally give you any advice, but here is a link with some good info.
    Mike
    http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...ur-skills/tig/
    George W. Bush was saving your butt whether you liked it or not!
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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Montgomery Mi
    Posts
    223

    Default tigging help

    Hey jothebuilder, I just got your post and some things are coming to me but i do have some questions for you and how much welding have you done on alum if any, but for now i have to goto my real job so when i get home i'll shoot you some things and you can go from there until then weld-it-up!
    It should be in the morning (night shift) but it pays the bills

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Olive Branch Ms
    Posts
    129

    Default Alum

    In my limited experience I can tell you this much. Aluminum has to be super clean. I was using a hand held sst wire brush and it just would'nt cut the oxidation. Once I put a good stiff stainless brush on a small grinder my ability to get a puddle started improving dramatically. There is tons of good info on this site if you go pack through all the old postings. Good luck, Adam One other thing that seems to work is to not try to run a long continous bead at first until you get faster. It just gets everything too hot.
    Webb's Welding and Repair LLC
    MM210 w/a 3035 spoolgun
    Syncrowave 250
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  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Grande Prairie, Alberta Canada
    Posts
    729

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Jetmekdc-10
    One other thing that seems to work is to not try to run a long continous bead at first until you get faster. It just gets everything too hot.
    I'm going to respectfully disagree with the last part of this statement. You're not going to learn how to control it until you see what it will do without changing your heat input & technique.

    Aluminum distributes heat extremely well, so controlling overall heat input is crucial. What I generally do is set the machine for more amps than I will need, then when I start the arc, I pin it wide open to quickly heat up the metal & establish the puddle, then back out of it until I can just maintain the puddle. If you want to travel faster - add more heat. If you diddle around too long running cold, before you know it, you have superheated a very large area and it has fallen onto your shoes or the floor.

    Depending on what I am doing, I cheat a little and throw a little heat onto the surface to speed things up. The overall effect is like I am using a larger diameter Tungsten and higher Amps.

    Opinions vary, this works for me.


    Later,
    Jason

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Montgomery Mi
    Posts
    223

    Thumbs up tigging help

    hey joe
    I'm sorry for not getting back to you in regards to your post, ok depending on what the thickness is of your work it dictates what your settings will be if your welding on 1/4" or less u want your heat set less then if your welding 1/4"or more thickness (thin-less,thick-more heat) so if your welding 1/4 or less your settings should be around 75-125amps,balance-3-max cleaning,arc cont-20,post flow-10,hi-frec 50-60, & arc balance-3/6 now these settings i'm giveing you are what i have useing a miller syncrowave 250 so that will give you an idea of the settings for the work you might be doing, but keep in mind you may or may not have the same machine as mine so you would set yours accordingly then if needed you could fine tune it. As for the tungsten same goes 1/4" metal i'll use a 3/32 100% pure with 100%Argon @25-35psi and 1/4-greater thickness i'll switch to 1/4 tungsten same gas & pressure settings, also i would suggest you would start practiceing on some scrap that is dirty and some that is clean and that way you can see the difference in the welds and also i suggest you would run your weld beads about 5" at a time so you can get a good feel of how you have yourself positioned and what the puddle is doing and really look at it as your welding that way if you need to make any adjustments to your welding settings or position i always tell the guys to study your work as if it was your final exam and LEARN AS YOU GET BETTER AS MUCH AS POSSIBALE, so i hope this will give you some things to think about and go from there, if you need any thing shoot me a line and i'll see what else i can do for you GOOD LUCK.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    CT.
    Posts
    333

    Default

    The rule of thumb is 1 amp per .001". So if you have .125 (1/8") then a starting point would be 125amps. I start mine higher cause I like to get a puddle right away, so if I am doing 1/8" depending on the weld I start about 135 to 150 amps and control the heat travel with the foot pedal.
    T.J.
    Miller Dynasty 300DX
    HTP MIG 240
    HTP 380 Plasma

    Bridgeport Milling Machine
    South Bend Lathe
    Etc. Etc....
    tjsperformance.com

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