they are trying to make the track safer by not allowing anyone with a 150 dollar buzz box from building a car that will pass cert...although i snuck through the cracks because i cant weld for crap but i do have a mig and a tig...![]()
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02-13-2010, 10:19 PM #21
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02-27-2010, 06:09 AM #22
Roll Cage Welding
I welded a ton of roll cages for stock cars over the years, 1 3/4 round .088 for
the main cage and .065 for some non-safety peripheral items.
The key is to have a good fit. You can buy or build a notcher. We built our own.
While .030 sounds like the right choice for wire, I have had great results with .035. Pull or push with an in and out pattern, no need to weave just turn the heat up a notch. Knock on wood, (or steel) I have never broken a weld and of course have had my share of wrecks.
Scott
http://www.welders360.com/
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02-27-2010, 11:09 PM #23
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05-14-2010, 11:47 PM #24
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Thats why most reputable sanctioning bodies dont allow stick welded ANYTHING. Point being that MIG and TIG are much better for inspecting than a stick weld. Granted ask a pipe fitter why we are talking crap about mission critical welds done with a stick but its true. Most guys that dont even attempt to buy a CHEAP mig probably cant be trusted to make a decent stick weld.
Metal fusion is secondary to the capabilty of an inspector to determine if the metal is truly fused.
I just had a guy from the shop next to me ask if I could tig and fix a 500 dollar steering wheel from a shifter kart that broke at a spoke. I told him to chuck it cause it was beyond saving without stripping the leather off off the wheel, grind every weld and do it over. He understood when I said that the metal should have failed NOT the weld.
Point being made is that in motorsports, peoples lives are at risk. Granted certain poorer areas of the country may turn a blind eye to weld quality in my parts you dont get by with buzz box welds and I dont think Id be ok with it even if they did.
Demolition derbys aka hobby stock can do what they want. Im planning on taking turns at over 130mph, I hope that I as well as everyone else next to me consider the quality of chassis construction as important as I do.Last edited by CalRewireMatt; 05-14-2010 at 11:50 PM.
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05-18-2010, 04:05 PM #25
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Heat as an insulator
Hi guys new to the forums -greetings to all. A concept i had hard time getting my head around was explained to me in a miller service course. You push mig because if you drag the slightly cooled weld acts like an insulator and you are just adding to the top of the weld not fusing to the base metal. Think about it. They taught "if its got slag you drag". So for tig or solid mig pushing gives the best result.
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05-19-2010, 09:33 PM #26
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05-19-2010, 09:38 PM #27
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05-19-2010, 10:42 PM #28
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05-20-2010, 12:17 PM #29
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05-21-2010, 03:43 PM #30
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Hey there I have miged similar things with 0.35 wire and for me I use alittle bit more heat then I do on flat welds. For me I almost run the weld down hand with my gun pointed slightly up so that when I get down towards the bottom of the pipe(or the bottom ride) I can twist my wrist down to get around more of the tube to do it in less tries.


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I have been racing shifter karts for over 16 yrs, Shifter kart steering wheels cost at the most 125 dollars! 







