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Thread: Welding Cart

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Custer Park, Illinois
    Posts
    92

    Default Welding Cart

    I've been fabricating a cart to put a HH140 on. Finally tired of moving it all over the shop by hand.

    Anyways, I put a video up on YouTube showing what it looks like at this stage.

    Click Here - Welding Cart Video

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    West Farmington, OH
    Posts
    746

    Default

    I like it! I've never seen one quite like that before. I have a Lincoln SP125 that has no real cart for, I adapted something else for temporary use but like everything else my projects are always last on my to do list.

    Keep us posted on the finished results.
    Blondie (Owner C & S Automotive)

    Colt the original point & click interface!

    Millermatic 35 with spot panel
    Miller 340A/BP
    Victor O/A torches
    Lincoln SP125
    Too many other tools to list

    03 Ram 1500
    78 GS1000
    82 GL1100 Interstate

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Custer Park, Illinois
    Posts
    92

    Default

    Thanks. It is a kind of interesting project to keep things going in the winter. Everything is pretty much "rescued" scrap.

    I haven't ever done much bending so I put the bends in the side rails. Good thing they are far enough apart so can't really tell they don't match exactly. Most of my projects are hurry up kind opf things so I took a little time to put some decoration on this one.

    I'll post some more up when I get some flooring and maybe some paint on it.

    Appreciate you looking.

    Al

  4. #4

    Default

    Not bad at all!

    I think the pins for the handle will give you grief though. You could still change that to another tube the handle tube fits into/over and have a single retaining pin of more substantial material without getting too complicated.

    I find that attachment without tools or pins/nuts, etc. to be much better for frequent use. Having to bend over to fit pins gets old fast.

    If the tube the handle tube fits into is of large enough ID you could even have a stud projecting out of the handle tube just far enough to engage a strategically located hole to retain the handle when you lift up to pull/push the cart around.
    Very easy to work with as well.

    Better yet (IMO), add a couple of swivel casters and hinge pin the handle so it is captive and you don't have to look for it or fiddle about to move the cart.

    Hope you don't mind the ideas...

    Marcel
    "If you build it, they will come!"

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Custer Park, Illinois
    Posts
    92

    Default

    I appreciate the ideas Marcel. The receiver tube idea would have been a better option for the handle. Somewhere in designing it I got the ideas of the pins and tunnel vision took over from there. I ground a pretty steep angle on the pins to make attachment a little easier. I'll have to see how it works in practice and I can still add a receiver tube underneath the pins if need be.

    I know what you mean about the spring pins getting lost. I'll come with a way to attach them to the handle so they don't grow legs every time I set them down.

    It seemed making the handle removable was a good idea because the angle needed to make it work for moving the cart around has it hanging out there in the wind. Seemed like it would get in the way quite a bit when walking around the cart...and that would make me say bad words ya know.

    I tend to use the "wheelbarrow" design for most things around here. The ground I work on is usually gravel and the shop floor right now is ag-lime. With 4 casters things always seem to be unstable so the 3 point stance helps with that.

    Thanks for looking.

    Al

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    West Farmington, OH
    Posts
    746

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SmokinPRanch View Post

    I know what you mean about the spring pins getting lost. I'll come with a way to attach them to the handle so they don't grow legs every time I set them down.

    You could use lanyards like on race cars that use pins to hold the hood down. Just take some 16 or 18 gauge wire and attach an eye terminal to each end. Use sheet metal or self tapping screws to attach them to the frame and hook the spring pins through the other end. When you take the handle off the spring pins will dangle from the wires attached to the frame.
    Blondie (Owner C & S Automotive)

    Colt the original point & click interface!

    Millermatic 35 with spot panel
    Miller 340A/BP
    Victor O/A torches
    Lincoln SP125
    Too many other tools to list

    03 Ram 1500
    78 GS1000
    82 GL1100 Interstate

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    southeast mich.
    Posts
    28

    Default

    nice cart. i like it
    LINCOLN IDEALARC 250 TIG
    LINCOLN SP100 MIG

    15 TON X 4' VERSON PRESS
    VINTAGE W.F AND JOHN BARNES 15" DRILL PRESS
    WILTON C-2 BENCH VISE
    HF 20 TON SHOP PRESS
    TONS OF OTHER TOOLS

    1956 FORD F-100
    1986 OLDS CUTLASS
    1969 PLYMOUTH ROADRUNNER
    1993 DODGE DAKOTA
    1994 DODGE DAKOTA
    1998 FORD MUSTANG GT CONV.
    2003 DODGE NEON

  8. #8

    Default

    Another idea that might work very simply while retaining the 3-point footing:

    A piece of angle (3"? about the length to fit in between your pins) with the legs trimmed so that one leg is approx. 3/8" inside to act as a hook over the top of the tube the handle mates up to and the other leg just the length needed to attach (to the bar on the handle where the pins fit through) so that the shorter leg just goes behind the frame and slips over when the handle is lowered, but retains the handle when the handle is lifted.

    You wouldn't need the retaining clips and your handle will no longer try to bend your pins or twist the flat bar...

    It is a pretty nice looking cart!
    Last edited by Marcel Bauer; 01-16-2010 at 08:34 PM.
    "If you build it, they will come!"

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