1. fusion king i have several of those same pipe benders. it all comes down to this, does the poster want an true arc or a piece of pipe bumped with a bender in a number of places to form the arc. yes this can be done. but you know that to get the arc correct you are going to have to space the pipe in equal increments and also apply pressure with equal force. very difficult to do. and there are thirtytwo pieces of pipe in all. by the way, i appreciate the way you presented your post.

2. if the other poster thinks that the math is unnecessary he might want to reconsider. if you can't handle some simple linear equations and right triangle trig you better be a god****ed good welder. the circle is a marvel, once you understand it's properties. it is a wonder it was not worshiped at some time.

3. it only took a few minutes to do the development of this corral because i took the time early in life to study some math and take courses in what is called descriptive geometry; the fact that i could establish the elevation from chord to arc quickly allowed me to determine the best way to fabricate other than rolling (which is, by far, the best way to handle this.) once i knew that height (and i am sketching on a napkin) i knew from experience that the item could be cold formed.

4. show dog appears to be the only one who has actually used a rosebud to do this work and he is right, bringing the material up to transformation temp will make it easier to bend and that is good if that is the only way, and most efficient way to do it. but does he want to bump up to a 120 in radius 32 pieces of schedule forty pipe. i don't think so, and remember it has to be kept flat.

4. now, cutting a template say, to a radius of 108" for starters out of some stacked 2 x 10's and in addition putting something on them that would project and keep the pipe in place as it was being formed is a simple and cheap way to go. using expansion bolts would allow the guy to remove the wood and trim the radius when and if necessary. the pipe can be pinned on one end, the other end connected to a 15' come along. you will have to play with this a little but once it is dialed in you make a mark at the point where you will hit the radius after spring back. and then you do it 31 more times. i suggested a floor because i'm pretty sure this guy does not have the table setup that was suggested by show dog, which would work but it would have to be fastened to the floor (the table/s)

also, something i picked up on pretty quickly here is the fact that he had his material rolled by some guy and claims he is too busy/expensive to do any more. what i think happened is he did not calculate the circumference correctly (pi x Dia, at the mean dia.) and told the guy to roll the pipe. it would obviously take at least three pieces of sch. 40 in 21 foot lengths to do this correctly. if you read his post you will see his error. i am thinking there was disagreement between him and the guy that did the rolling. 35 years at this and you tend to see things with a little more clarity.

there are obviously some very talented people on this board; and there are quite a few know it alls, that don't know too much. i started as a welder and i'm actually a good welder but my main thing has been metal fabrication, precision sheet metal, industrial sheet metal, miscellaneous metals, light and heavy structural, marine fabrication and more. but i also recognize the limits of my abilities and frankly if i need something welded really well; i just hire a guy end of story. i don't have all the answers but in the metals trade i have a lot of them.

also, sailor man, i like the setup you descibed and i believe it could be utilized in this instance also. great story.

the whole point here is why throw out suggestions to someone if you don't even know what you are talking about. then again they always are the ones that have all the answers, god knows i have hired and worked with enough of them.