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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    miami
    Posts
    262

    Default pipe

    of course two inch pipe, is two inch pipe regardless of the sch. it is the wall thickness that counts here. the 2 3/8 in od is irrelevant. i suggested a sch. 10 because it would be more easily formed. the excerpt printed above was probably written by an engineer. you have solved nothing for the poster that requested the feedback, you are suggesting rebuilding a HF machine (an oxymoron), and then he will still have to run a bunch of test pieces through to ascertain his springback; i am suggesting bolting the wood to the floor, cut the radius to a smaller size; you will have to do some handworking but you won't have to buy and rebuild a machine and you will not have to roll a bundle of pipe to get what you need. again, this is a large enough radius to cold work the pipe.

    statistical analysis?
    batch run to ascertain material properties?

    if everyone that wanted to bend some metal went to all that trouble nothing would get done.

    as long as it is not sch 80 pipe he should not have too much trouble

    this pipe is being formed to build a corral if i'm not mistaken.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    347

    Default

    I've got 8 curved sections in this corral. At four railings per section, that's 32 pieces of pipe to bend. That's why I was thinking of making a jig for a hydraulic press. It would be very time consuming to do it with a come-a-long and rosebud. Plus, I'd have the jig for making more if I decide to expand the coral or build another one.
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  3. #13
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Grande Prairie, Alberta Canada
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    729

    Default

    Sweet Freakin' Marie.....

    Gary is bending some Oilfield tubing for a corral....

    You guys are treating it like he is building the bloody space shuttle....

    This is not nearly as difficult or as scientific as you two are making it.

    If it were me Gary, I would either bend it around a form similiar to what Showdog proposed, OR whip up a couple of dies (that you mentioned) and use your log splitter like a BIG pipe bender.

    Once you are set up, the log splitter should be easier...

    Start with shallow bends evenly along the joint of the pipe, then go over it again, and bend it a little deeper to "tighten" up the radius, until you have what you need.

    Mathmatics have their place - but all this calculations mumbo jumbo isn't getting anything done, and time IS money.

    My apologies to the members whose feathers I have ruffled... Realize that my post is merely one man's opinion... I just think you two are making a mountain out of a mole hill.

    If every job in industry was approached your way - NOTHING would get done.
    Later,
    Jason

    Professional Spark Generator by Trade.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Lodi, CA
    Posts
    1,262

    Default

    This might give you some ideas, but it's more of an art than a science using something like this.

    I built this for cold forming 1045 wearplates to fit the bottom of excavator, backhoe, and loader buckets, with a little modification (maybe some basic dies to help prevent collapsing the pipe) something like this would probably work for your situation, also?
    Attached Images Attached Images

  5. #15
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Grande Prairie, Alberta Canada
    Posts
    729

    Default

    Great Picture JSFab...

    THAT is basically what we call a "Pipe Bender" up here, and what I pictured Gary doing with his log splitter.

    Perfect timing.
    Later,
    Jason

    Professional Spark Generator by Trade.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    miami
    Posts
    262

    Default pipe

    neither of you know what you are talking about.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    East Tennessee
    Posts
    614

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by fdcmiami View Post
    neither of you know what you are talking about.
    Cocky are we ? I think both of those gents know what there talking about , you probably do to but seem to be making something simple very complicated.I'll make a suggestion , if you want folks here to listen to your ideas it would help not to slam other well respected members by saying they don't know what there talking about.Just my $.02 . Have a happy new year.
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  8. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    305

    Default

    Happy New Year Gary, long time no see.

    The log splitter idea works for me. Keep in mind a couple of things. The biggest of those is oil field pipe is high carbon, harder than a bad girl's heart first of the month if you know what I mean. The next biggest thing is keep in mind that demo on my web site where I bend that half by one and a half bar stock the hard way with a hammer, itty bitty bites.

    http://harveylacey.com/id25.htm

    The pipe dies will probably break before the pipe deflects if the pipe dies are cast material, harder than a bad girl's heart at work. I'd resort to them only if every thing else fails.

    Here's what I would consider doing. I would lay out a table if you will consisting of a single plane for supporting the pipe while being worked. I would cut my first piece quite a bit, three or four foot longer than needed, leverage, important.

    Next I would take that piece of pipe and mark it with a permanent marker every six inches, three hundred and sixty degrees.

    I would place the working end of the log splitter ram in the middle of the table/plane/rollers, etc. I think I would consider good chain for my restraints over blocks or dies. The chain could be attached to the stationary end of the log splitter ram. Chain also gives you a easily calculated mechanism for making consistant changes in the stroke of the ram against the pipe.

    I would start off with the chains/stops about two feet each side of the ram contact point, again, leverage. I think I would like a wide and with a very slight arc piece attached to the end of the ram. I don't think you need a concave shape for the pipe, flat will work fine, just substantial enough that the cutting edge of the log splitter doesn't split the piece and destroy a piece of pipe.

    I think I would lay out marks one inch apart that track the measurement of the ram.

    First piece of pipe in place, middle of pipe to bent centered on ram, chains in place with a spreader bar so all the bends are the same. I would go one inch of ram movement AFTER tension on chains.

    Release ram and move pipe one foot either side, ram again. Move pipe back two feet the other direction (one foot other side of center), ram again. Even though at first it might not appear you're doing anything you are. When you're done there will be an arc in your pipe. You can judge by that arc whether you should do your rams at nine inches, six inches, four inches, three inches etc and so on. Or if you should move the ram a half inch or two inches at a time.

    One of the beauties of using the chain and tension as your guide you don't have to figure in the travel of the arc as you work your way through the bending process.

    Hope this helps Gary. After you're done with the pilot piece you now have the information you need to duplicate it. You have your required ram movement measurements and your number of times and location of the bends to make your arc.

    And for you guys with the mathematical disability, try this: http://harveylacey.com/wordpress/?p=161

    There are so many edits because my wife occasionally reads my posts and my gawd, bad grammar gets my butt in more trouble........
    Last edited by wroughtnharv; 01-01-2010 at 09:35 AM.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Lake of the Ozarks MO
    Posts
    3,556

    Default Cheap HF pipe bender?

    I have one of those cheap HF 16 ton PIPE benders that hardly ever work on thinner tubing. I have found it works quite well on stuff such as this.
    I have even bent 3" sch 40 with it.
    I have not bent any oilfield pipe so if this is different because of the hardness then I wouldn't know about it.
    It will lay on its side like the machine JS Fab showed.
    I do know the dies will fit and it would be easy to sacrifice one of these machines by chopping and adapting to your log splitter.
    I busted my outer roller dies and had them made out of steel instead and they are much stronger. Never had any trouble with the cast iron dies on the ram tho. YMMV.

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  10. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Guam
    Posts
    177

    Default

    I do arches in aluminum mostly but sometimes in galvinized steel.If you have a choice in the mater you might consider schedule 30 2'' galv pipe, with an arch in this it would be very strong and easy to work with. I bend this with no heat using cheater bars and a comalong when necessary. I work off a trailer and sometimes use another truck for a movable dead man. I work from the center out in one direction bending about half the radius,then flipping the piece end to end, then bending about half the radius agine. Then continue bending pass the desired radius. How much, that's for you to figure out. Flip one more time and finish the bend. The trailer I use has a easy to remove plywood deck, so I weld my stops for the arch directly to the frame members. I've never worked with the pipe thats refured to here but see no reason why a veriation of this method wouldn't work. Doing everthing heavy duty and even using a truck for your bending force.I do not recommend tring this method with the truck being used as the bending force if you don't have alot of experience with the forces that were dealing with here. Good luck on your project.

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