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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
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    I live in Cheraw, South Carolina
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    Default Memorize Stick Electrode Polarties

    This is for those like me that are not professional welders and lack the experience that most of the members of this message board have. It is something I ran across on the internet that helps you determine the polarity you can use on the various stick electrodes. When looking at an electrode chart is seems impossible to think you could memorize all the information about the various electrodes and how they can be used. Actually, you only have to memorize three things. This is for the stick electrodes that carry the four number designation like 6010, 6011, 7018 etc.

    DC Positive (reverse polarity) Can be used on all electrodes except those ending in 2.

    AC Can be used on all electrodes except those ending in 0 or 5 .

    DC negative ( straight polarity) Can be used on all electrodes except those ending in 0 or 8.


    Now you have it memorized.
    6010
    If I had know I was going to live this long, I would have taken better care of myself.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
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    356

    Default

    or you could just read the box if your unshure
    mm210
    maxstar 150

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
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    Vancouver BC Canada
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    Default

    what is the reasoning for various electrodes with various processes? Im not up on this..
    Will it weld? I loooove electricity!

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  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
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    16919 Pole Rd. Brethren, MI 49619
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    Default

    If you have DC+ why fool with the knobs at all? Set it and leave it.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Lancaster, Pa
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    431

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by sberry View Post
    If you have DC+ why fool with the knobs at all? Set it and leave it.
    Not all polarities can be used for all metals, thickness or in all situations. Thats why Miller gives us choices
    Ken

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  6. #6
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    Default

    Like the man says, he isn't a professional and what do you use when you go on the job? 6010 and 7018 There are obviously special circumstances that may warrant something different but for general fab work that is a cant miss deal for 98% of it. I think its easy for newer operators to get slightly confused during the learning curve sometimes and for myself I set the knob or leads to DC+ when I bought the machine and leave it there.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Salem ,Ohio
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    3,897

    Cool

    Quote Originally Posted by KBar View Post
    Thats why Miller gives us choices
    And thats why i love my MIG. I only use 7018 also. Thats all we can use at work so why have any other unless its cast iron or SS...Bob
    Bob Wright, Grandson of Tee Nee Boat Trailer Founder
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  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    I live in Cheraw, South Carolina
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    Default

    I agree with Sberry about keeping it simple. Put it on DC + and you only have to remember you can use any electrode except those that end in 2. I donít think you can get any simpler than that. And I guess most will agree that the 6010 is the fundamental rod to use since it gives the deepest penetration, and can be used more successfully on metal that is not prepped real well i.e., rusty or painted. I know in pipe work 6010 is a code rod and have wondered why the 6011 doesnít share an equal place in the code. Its penetration is suppose to be the same and it is more versatile in those rare instances when you might find it an advantage to go from DC +, since the 6011 can be used on DC plus, minus, or AC. I hope someone else can answer this question. I tried to find information about the various rods and when they were first manufactured but the information I came across was too vague for me to determine the time line.

    As for the question on the various processes I will try to give some simple explanations and maybe someone can add to mine if I leave something out.

    AC is used primarily because the source is available in a cheaper welder. The AC only welders are cheaper than AD/DC welders. They may be a little more difficult to learn to weld with because 120 times a second the source of power passes through zero. The only other time I know of when you would use AC is when Arc Blow is a problem. This usually happens when you are welding with DC current above 250 amps or welding on material that is magnetized.

    The only reason I know DC minus is used is for welding on thinner material at lower amperage. I am sure the need for this can be offset by learning proper technique eliminating the need to go from DC plus to DC minus and from a 6010 to say a 6013. For me, I still burn holes in the thin stuff, no matter what I do.

    So unless you are welding on something magnetized and have learned proper technique, Mr. Sberry is right, there is no reason to change from the DC plus and the 6010 and 7018 on mild steel.

    I would still like to know why the 6011 has not been accepted as code since it is a fast freeze rod and very similar to the 6010 in penetration. I know there are many places that sell welding supplies, like hardware stores for instance, that donít even carry the 6010. I guess it is because most of those buying these rods are handy man welders and are using AC machines and the two rods are so similar.
    6010
    If I had know I was going to live this long, I would have taken better care of myself.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
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    Default

    I believe Lincoln says Xray pipe work in their selection guide for 6011.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
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    Default

    I would rather use a 6010 but bought 6011 the last time just because it was priced right and easy to get. As for burning holes, really very rarely and its cause I wasn't paying attn anyway and the amount of sheet with stick is minimal so I don't fool with specialty setups, turn the current down a little and make do. I saw 6011 3/32 at the powerhouse done on sheet metal, as I recall it was done DCRP.
    Last edited by Sberry; 10-27-2007 at 11:31 AM.

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